1948 Chrysler Windsor questions

[christianad1156]

Its been another long time since I've posted.  I've been stationed away from my project for almost a year now...heading to Singapore next so I certainly won't get much done soon.  However...

 

-I've finished scanning the entire parts book, I'll post a link in the "for sale" section.  Its also here:  https://www.ebay.com/itm/1946-1947-1948-Chrysler-Passenger-Car-Parts-List/283480254059

 

-I had my car in the shop over the summer back home in Idaho to get rocker replacement work done.  The initial estimate was way lower than the estimate to authorize work so I pulled it out of the shop.  I've read a few books about welding and got some replacement panels.  I'll weld them in myself when I get the chance!

 

-Does anybody have knowledge with an "original" trunk "mat" for a C38?  There is a guy on ebay selling one and says it was remade from the one from his car but I would like to get a second source verifying that that is the correct mat before I spend the money.  The link is here:  https://www.ebay.com/itm/1946-1947-1948-Dodge-DeSoto-Chrysler-Repro-Trunk-Mat-From-Original-Pattern/173871424775

 

Thanks!

 

[c49er]

You won't find an OE factory mat.

Buy the one from Bernbaum as listed above... close as you will get.

I've looked for 40 years.

[christianad1156]

Bob, 

 

Great advice from great experience as always.  I don't know why but I didn't realize that Bernbaum had an eBay store!

 

Christian

[48chryslerwinsdor]

Hi this is a good thread. I have a 48 Chrysler Windsor and I’m trying to get a radiator for it but not too expensive. Would one for a 49 work? Thank you in advance. Email is sarahstreasuresstore@yahoo.comthank you

[The 55er]

49 will not work, you need a radiator from a 1942-1948 Chrysler or DeSoto six. 

[JACK M]

You might try www.Championradiators.com if you can get along with aluminum.

I have had pretty good luck with them.

Edited June 26, 2019 by JACK M (see edit history)

[christianad1156]

Just a quick update...I'm in Singapore right now (for another year).  Turns out, its incredibly hard to bring a car into this country.  Not that I wanted to bring the Chrysler here anyway.  The Chrysler is waiting in North Idaho under a tarp (didn't have a garage to put it in).  I've got new rockers to weld and sills to fit in and probably portions of the floorpans to replace as well.  I'll be learning how to weld as soon as I'm able to get re-settled in the US with the car.  I'll also start working on chrome when I get back and blast the body, not sure about the frame yet.  In the meantime, I've been looking for sweet deals on ebay for NOS parts I think I'll need or want.  A few of my finds:

-NORS trunk mat

-NOS Skyway Antenna still in the box (concealed type)

-an extra NOS voltage regulator, headlight switch, oil and ammeter gauges

-resistors for the heater switches (there is a discrepancy between the numbers listed in the 1948 parts book (1949 edition) and the 1953 parts book  (1954 edition).  I now have both so I can verify the resistance in case I need to replace them with a modern resistor in the future.

 

One of the more random things I found were new seat cushion springs but I can't verify the part number anywhere.  Its printed as 1297 319 on the box but the tags have 1297 318.  I'm not entirely certain of the application so if anybody has info on the part number, please share.  I included pictures.  The paper that came with it referenced models built after certain dates but didn't give a year.

 

I'm on the hunt for replacement plastic for the glove box.  I know I'm not the only one with cracked plastic but I haven't seen a source for replacements anywhere.  Does anybody have a name of a place or source that can help?

 

A small project I've been meaning to start was to try to decode the 1946-1948 build sheets more.  I know FCA gives the codes for some of the items on the card but it doesn't include everything.  If something already exists that explains each item and what the punched out holes mean, can somebody share it?  If not, if folks would like to send me pictures of build sheets and the FCA document explaining each, I can try to start compiling the info and share what I come up with.  For example, I'd like to know if my car came with white trim rings or stainless steel trim rings w/white walls.  However, the card only says "WHL RINGS" with a hole punched near it.  Another example,  it says "RADIO" with a hole punched which I assume the hole means the 802 model since that what I have and I think it is original to the car.  But there are other things too like "ARM REST" that is punched.  Was an arm rest an option on some of the different models?  Anyway, if somebody is interested, message me and we can discuss.  I'll post a draft of what I start to come up with eventually.

 

Hope everyone is doing well and staying COVID free!  

 

Christian

 

[christianad1156]

 

[nikolavouk]

The service manual and the master tech brake videos show a technique where you pull the drum off still attached to the wheel as the recommended method. This also is the recommended method to resurface the wheels to keep them round. Interestingly, I haven't seen anybody on the net using this method. This would have been a common procedure for every run of the mill shop, and I'm sure isn't the struggle or hastle that people seem to be going through pulling drums.

 

Anybody have experience doing it with the tire attached?

[gabriel ernesto]

Hello! I have a 1946 Windsor 6, and I want to know what the oil level would be in the torque converter, what oil and quantity and if it has any cooling system for the oil. thank you

[christianad1156]

Gabriel,

If I remember correctly, the fluid level should be up to the fill hole on the passenger side of the Fluid Drive under the floorboards.  There is no cooling equipment for it.  I've never seen an original description of the type of fluid to be used, only MoPar Fluid Drive Fluid which was available when the cars were new.  There is a ton of info on the forums about what fluid to use.  I'd tell you what I used a long time ago when I replaced the fluid but I don't have my binder with me at the moment.  Good luck.

Christian

 

[marcapra]

The fluid drive oil is a light circulating oil like Mobil One DTE 32 iso on amazon.  I think it only comes in 5 gallon buckets.  You only need 7 quarts so this might be the better oil.  

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07K3YQZXZ/?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_plhdr=t&aaxitk=d004ce4517cb9abb3cd904973d09c6f7&hsa_cr_id=2292347200401&qid=1710116355&sr=1-1-9e67e56a-6f64-441f-a281-df67fc737124&ref_=sbx_be_s_sparkle_mcd_asin_0_img&pd_rd_w=ynMLh&content-id=amzn1.sym.417820b0-80f2-4084-adb3-fb612550f30b%3Aamzn1.sym.417820b0-80f2-4084-adb3-fb612550f30b&pf_rd_p=417820b0-80f2-4084-adb3-fb612550f30b&pf_rd_r=J994WWB27TD47PQSQC7X&pd_rd_wg=VCTd4&pd_rd_r=bd55891b-a298-494e-96d6-8bc29e04ab49&th=1

[marcapra]

I checked Amazon and now Mobil sells the Light Circulating oil in one gallon containers.  Buy two of these and you can fill the fluid drive with a quart left over.  

 

https://www.amazon.com/Mobil-DTE-24-Hydraulic-Oil/dp/B06XCBZRX2/ref=sims_dp_d_dex_popular_subs_t1_v2_d_sccl_4_7/142-4214878-5936743?pd_rd_w=8nqIG&content-id=amzn1.sym.93fb329b-9ab7-470f-8799-6fc7669b8d84&pf_rd_p=93fb329b-9ab7-470f-8799-6fc7669b8d84&pf_rd_r=SMYX87GPPC5KXHTF98J7&pd_rd_wg=SO6KW&pd_rd_r=5cfae782-f022-40b6-8fd3-20ddac183e5c&pd_rd_i=B06XCBZRX2&psc=1

[christianad1156]

Has anybody else replaced their window felt/sweepers and run into this? 

 

I ordered new sweepers from Andy Bernbaum but I don't think they fit.  I called and asked if they've had feedback from anybody else about this product but I was told they did not.  Perhaps I ordered the wrong one for the 46-48 cars or maybe I'm installing it wrong?

 

The issue that I have is that they are too tall.  For felt/sweepers that go on the "inside" moulding pieces (see the blue part it the attached pictures), they would physically fit on it but then the window channel (metal piece holding the glass) would hit the bottom of the felt/sweeper prevent the window from being raised all the way.  If I install this piece on the inside of the outer stainless steel trim, there is a curved "lip" on the bottom of the trim that prevents the felt/sweeper from being installed flush against the trim; besides, the piece would still be too tall for the window channel for the glass to be raised up all the way.  

 

It looks to me like the original felt/sweepers were about 3/8 inch tall.

 

I've been able to use shears to cut off the "excess" rubber and metal below the felt and grind it so it clears the trim lip and the channel but I think that's a really sloppy install and I'd like to do it better.

 

Has anybody experienced this or used a different product/supplier?

 

Thanks in advance.