1934 dodge sedan project hood corners

[Guest jwnpghdodge]

Hello

I started a new project, a 1934 dodge sedan, not sure the type since it is partially restored, and I haven't located the door plate with details. I have been reading these forums and getting familiar with the car.

I have a couple pictures in my new gallery.

One thing I am curious about so far is the hood corners. I see that leather or rubber ones are common, but the ones on my hood are brass, with brass rivets. Would these be original?

The good handle was fastened to the hood with what appear to be steel and brass rivets. What is a good source for replacement rivets? I removed the handle to work on the hood and drilled out the rivet.

thanks for any advice.

John

[jpage]

What you're seeing is probably the metal "skeleton" of the corner with the rivet. You'll probably find them from Steele Rubber or most of the early Mopar parts vendors. Depending on the type of rivet ,whether solid, split or tubular, you might try Restoration Specialties in PA, Restoration Supply, or an industrial supply company like McMaster -Carr or Grainger.

[Ian_Greenlaw]

Hi John and welcome to the forum.

i believe the original hood corners were brass or steel with the rubber vulcanised to it.

The rubber may have perished and you are left with the metal part.

Steele Rubber make excellent reproductions and are very expensive.

The hood handles I'm not sure what was original but one of the other guys can probably tell you.

As my 34 was pulled completely apart when I got it and an export one, I have to rely on photos of other guys cars to help me.

there guys have a wealth of knowledge and are only too happy to help you.

Where are the photos in your gallery ? I can't seem to find them.

Also download the Restoration Supply Company catalogue. You will be like a kid in a candy shop with all the bits and pieces they offer. In fact I just placed my second order with them last night.

See if you can load some pics on the forum page.

Cheers

Ian

[Guest DodgeKCL]

Yes those hood corners were rubber covered brass,in most but not all,cases. The rubber forms a "pocket" that slips over the hood corner. Then the brass rivet is installed through the hole in the metal corner of the hood. When you do finally find some and go to install them,PLEASE, put the rivet inside the pocket so it doesn't show on the outside. I see many of them on restored vehicles,even high end restorations, with the rivet head showing on the outside of the rubber corner. The rivet head was hidden inside the "pocket" and it was backed up by a washer on the inside of the hood. In otherwords,you would have to peel open the outside of the rubber to peek in and see the rivet head. The hood handles are held on by rivets in all cases on all vehicles all makes I've ever seen. I've been known to grind off the slot on the head of a stainless steel machine screw,6-32,polish it, and use it with a nut and washer.

[Guest jwnpghdodge]

hello Ian, I have been reading your progress post, very interesting and thanks for your advice. I think I fixed the gallery issue and you should be able to see some photos. I will be sure to download that restoration catalog too.

[Guest jwnpghdodge]

Yes those hood corners were rubber covered brass,in most but not all,cases. The rubber forms a "pocket" that slips over the hood corner. Then the brass rivet is installed through the hole in the metal corner of the hood. When you do finally find some and go to install them,PLEASE, put the rivet inside the pocket so it doesn't show on the outside. I see many of them on restored vehicles,even high end restorations, with the rivet head showing on the outside of the rubber corner. The rivet head was hidden inside the "pocket" and it was backed up by a washer on the inside of the hood. In otherwords,you would have to peel open the outside of the rubber to peek in and see the rivet head. The hood handles are held on by rivets in all cases on all vehicles all makes I've ever seen. I've been known to grind off the slot on the head of a stainless steel machine screw,6-32,polish it, and use it with a nut and washer.

I figured that was the case. is there a particular rivet type used? The one I removed seemed to be steel on the outside and brass in the back.

[Ian_Greenlaw]

Hi John,

Does your car have a split passenger and driver side window ? That will tell me if its a DR or DRXX.

Can you get some more photos for me....I love photos. Inside, engine bay etc...

What condition did you buy it in ?

Cheers

Ian

[Guest jwnpghdodge]

Hi John,

Does your car have a split passenger and driver side window ? That will tell me if its a DR or DRXX.

Can you get some more photos for me....I love photos. Inside, engine bay etc...

What condition did you buy it in ?

Cheers

Ian

Ian

It does have a split window. I will post more photos soon. this car was owned by a former boss of mine, before college, when I was a mechanic. he bought one in original condition and then bought one to restore. he partially finished and then covered it. 25 years later my dad brought it to my house to finish. frame and cab are already restored as seen in the pics I have here. all the chrome has been redone. the interior is not restored, but intact. the rear fenders are done, the front have been cleaned and primed. The hood is original.

Speaking of the hood, is there a source for replacement sheet metal?

I am still reading through your thread

Without my door seal plate, how can o tell what my serial number is? will it be on the title?

John

[ply33]

. . . Without my door seal plate, how can o tell what my serial number is? will it be on the title?

Maybe if you are lucky. Many states used the engine number back in that day.

[Ian_Greenlaw]

Hi John,

The serial number is located in two places. On the right hand side door pillar is a serial number data plate and stamped on the chassis just forward where the front springs are. I'll try and round up the pictures for you. Armed with this info you can write to the Chrysler Museum and request a build sheet. Unfortunatley as mine is an export these records were not retained so I can't get my build sheet ( so I've been told ). when I applied for mine the records show that approx 240 build sheets are non existent and mine is one of them. I also read that approx 240 were made for export and another member on this forum also said the same thing that export records were not retained. The 34's engine numbers are different from the Serial Numbers. The engine numbers start with a DR.

A split window means it not a DRXX, so yours is a DR. These came with many options ( including front and rear bumpers !!! ), like dual horns, dual spare wheels, rear trunk etc....

Suppliers of bonnets......good luck with that one. If you need them you have two options, find someone wrecking a 34 that has good bonnets and will part with them or get them remade which may be a tad expensive.

If your looking for new door sill covers with the Dodge emblem, there is a guy who makes these and they are a fantastic replica of the originals. I'm coming to the end of having to find parts for my car but every now and then something crops up and I have to find / make something as I didn't pull my car apart ( previous owner took 5 years to do that ).

If you are looking for something let me know and I may be able to help. Never hurts to ask !!!

Cheers

Ian

[Guest jwnpghdodge]

Hi John,

The serial number is located in two places. On the right hand side door pillar is a serial number data plate and stamped on the chassis just forward where the front springs are.

Suppliers of bonnets......good luck with that one. If you need them you have two options, find someone wrecking a 34 that has good bonnets and will part with them or get them remade which may be a tad expensive.

If you are looking for something let me know and I may be able to help. Never hurts to ask !!!

Cheers

Ian

Ian

thanks for being so helpful. I managed to find a company that remakes the hoods, Rootleib. it is expensive though. My father took both lower sections of the hood to have the metal splits at the louvers repaired and I said to make sure it is cold welded, well the fellow brazed them and they are pretty warped that is why I am looking to simply replace the parts. you can see from my pictures in my gallery the hood was pretty good, if you zoom in you can see the metal tear.

I looked for the serial # on the frame, but couldn't find it. I wonder if this frame is not original, it is in really good shape, I though it was just blasted and cleaned. That is what I was told was done.

I added a couple more pics to the gallery too.

thanks again, and I am sure I will be talking to you soon

john

[Ian_Greenlaw]

Hi John,

Mine sides were torn in the same place but I don't think you can see it in my photos. Looking at yours, they seem repairable ( Ive seen a lot worse ). Are your angle brackets still welded in place ? Someone wrote to me a few years ago and said that he had the bonnet repaired and tightened and when on the car was all buckled. The reason was the brackets were in the wrong place and the bonnet restraining buffer were not fitted correctly. Apparantly these are buggers to get right. Mine were set up in the body shop then disassembled for painting BUT... I haven't fitted mine yet so I'm leaving until I can get the rest of stuff done around the engine before I fit them.

It took me a long time to find my serial number. It will be there. My chassis was blasted and powder coated. I finally found what looked to be a few faint numbers and using very fine wet and dry I gently sanded the area and the numbers appeared. You just have to go over the areas with a fine tooth comb looking for them. Hopefully my location will help.

Cheers

Ian

[Guest jwnpghdodge]

Ian

Wow, very informative. Thanks tons! I added some more photos to my gallery, you said you wanted to know the condition of the car. Like I said earlier, it was partially restored. The person who sold the car has another version, without the spit front windows that is in original condition. It is in a garage. He has quite a few spare parts around. I found another hood, which I took, and it is in very good condition, no stress cracks, the supports are in place, however it has some punched holes under each louver.

If you look at the one pic in my gallery, you can see them. Is this for some trim?

Also, while visiting this guy, I grabbed the driver fender. It is different than the passenger, it has a hole and is flattened around the hole. What is the hole for? I have to stop over his place again, there are other fenders around. I need a matching pair.

thanks again for all your input, I very much appreciate it.

John

[Ian_Greenlaw]

Hi John,

Yep, the holes under each louvre are for the stainless steel trim. Go back through my thread and I have a picture of a finished one of mine. There you will see the stainless steel trim.

The hole in the front guard you are missing is where the bumper bar iron bolts through the front guard to the chassis. This bolt gives the front bumper it's support. Trick is to get it sturdy enough without putting any pressure on you nicely painted fender.

You do have a lot more things bolted to the firewall. There's the coil in the centre but what are the other things ? Regulator or relay perhaps ?

Next to the coil on the left side us a number I see stamped in the firewall. That's just the body number I believe budd stamped to keep track of them.

Good looking project but your steering wheel is in the wrong side.....................Aussie joke !!!

Ian

[Guest jwnpghdodge]

Hi John,

Yep, the holes under each louvre are for the stainless steel trim. Go back through my thread and I have a picture of a finished one of mine. There you will see the stainless steel trim.

The hole in the front guard you are missing is where the bumper bar iron bolts through the front guard to the chassis. This bolt gives the front bumper it's support. Trick is to get it sturdy enough without putting any pressure on you nicely painted fender.

You do have a lot more things bolted to the firewall. There's the coil in the centre but what are the other things ? Regulator or relay perhaps ?

Next to the coil on the left side us a number I see stamped in the firewall. That's just the body number I believe budd stamped to keep track of them.

Good looking project but your steering wheel is in the wrong side.....................Aussie joke !!!

Ian

Ian

I am not sure what's all bolted to the firewall. I will let you know when I find out. I just bought another 34 sedan from the same guy, along with many extra parts, from fenders, to hoods, to trim and other parts.

I will look through your thread and check out the hood trim. I haven't found any in my new stash yet, I wonder if they are easily obtained.

Thanks for your help.

John