edhd58

1942 Ford Fordor Revival

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Its been a while since I posted anything here. I've been working 55 and 60 hour weeks lately with not much time I felt like doing anything once I got home and ate supper. I will be getting this thing painted as soon as I get the rear end back end and the body shop says its ready, I now have 3 people lined up in case each one says they cant do it now.

 If you may have looked on a couple other forums you may have noticed I tore the teeth off the pinion gear in the rear end. It took two tries but I got the correct gears from Speedway and got all the other parts from Mac's Auto Parts. I also decided to go with 3.54/1 gears in the rear instead of the stock 3.78/1 gears. I have been told this will help a lot on cruising with modern traffic when I have to.

I couldn't find anyone local to overhaul the rear end so I had to do it myself. It really isn't hard, just time consuming with all the put togethers and take aparts.

I decided to leave the wishbone in the car and only swap rear axle assemblies. It took a while but I have the axle assemblies swapped but have yet to get the brake drums on, It seems asbestos brake linings WILL absorb moisture and cause them to swell a little, they were stored in a barn and not wrapped in any way. They are also the brake linings that were on the original axle, and look like at least 50 years old. The are still on the backing plates that were in the car when I took that rear end out because it had bad ring gear teeth.

I am now wondering if this is a weak point in the rear end, two out of two rear ends fail!! BUT i was attempting to bark the tires when I messed up the 2nd rear end. I have new brake shoes and will install them on both side, I also have new drums for the original hubs (under drum hubs) but found I have to get the studs out because they are the "swedged" bolts. I am going to look and see if I can update to new bolts that do NOT require the drums be "swedged" on the hubs. I think swedged is the correct term. Anyway, the bolts have shoulders that have to be swollen and hold the drum in place and takes a special tool to do that and another tool get the drum off the hub. 

 

One picture is the original 42 rear end which has zerk fittings to grease the hub bearings, the others are simply that same assembly disassembled and reassembled. The later rear axle assembly does not have those zerk fittings. That is one reason why i overhauled the earlier rear axle assembly

 

 

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Got it back from the upholsterer Sunday, been working on it almost every waking minute since. I am happy with how it turned out, even if it did take a month longer than expected. getting the dash back together and almost ready to put it in. i have installed an electric wiper motor, but I need new wiper towers the old ones are seized solid. 

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2 hours ago, keiser31 said:

Beautiful work!

X2!

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OMG !  What a beauty !     I'd say that car is defiantly restored and not merely revived.  And, I still appreciate the uncommon four doors and inline six.  Nice work!  

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Its been a while since I posted and I have made a little progress. i cant load too many pics at once soooo....... a few posts for pics. I did get a new (had the paper hang tags on the knobs - well part of the hang tags anyway) radio front installed. 

 

radio 1.jpg

Final look 1.jpg

Edited by edhd58 (see edit history)

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I also am now street legal, Wifey got the tags Saturday, bless her heart, and today I had her follow me to verify the speedometer. It's off a tad, at 60 on the car her 2013 Tundra is sowing right at 55. and I later took it out and ran it up to 70 and cruised a while at that speed, because the motor sounded fine not straining any. oil pressure HOT (190) is 30 at idle and 50+ revved (I'd guess 2500 RPM). The electric gauge is pegged but the mechanical is showing just over 50 setting in the drive way revving the engine to see the hi and lows. 

The trim rings on the car is the final look. I am going minimalist on the exterior. I'm just a plain kinda guy. The bumpers were tooooo far gone to think about doing anything with, plus I just don't have the extra money at the moment. 

 

Oh yeah, almost forgot , i put in new king pins bushings and both tie rod ends, not the front end is all nice and tight. It aooears the original (maybe) bushings were still in it. Maybe. And I did paint it all black before it got put back together. 

king pins 2.jpg

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OEM King pin Bushings.jpg

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Looking good.  Nice color too.  Just enough chrome and black to break up the body color.  Enjoy the hard work you put into it.

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Nice to see the progress on your car.

Looks great!

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it made its first real road trip Saturday.  

Approximately an hour away was the NSRA Street Rod Nationals in Louisville, KY.  

The trip there was uneventful, the trip home was anything but that.

The car has never overheated before, but did after sitting idling in traffic for 30 to 45 minutes (heat of the day leaving). It reached a little over 210 and blew coolant out of the radiator all over the motor. It has the no pressure radiator cap. 

This caused the engine to start misfiring as the distributor was now soaked.

I got it pulled over into a store parking lot and found the fan belt loose and now soaked.

To make a long story short I did finally get it back home under its own power. I now need to find out why the generator moved or why the fan belt loosened. 

I also need to find out why the speedometer is close to right at 55 but way off at 60 mph. It shows 60 mph at 55 but show 75 at 60 mph. 

 

If you notice it has no side mirrors, that is something I decided on the way up has to change. 

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The car looks really nice, that blue is a great color.

 

Sorry to hear about your troubles. There's always bugs to work out on a new restoration, at least on mine there are. :)

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Well, its been a while. A bunch has happened. Some has probably been my own doing. 

 

The trans had a bad growl in first gear, and the clutch has had a bad shudder, and there's the overheat thing which I never addressed yet. I pulled the motor and trans a couple weeks ago and had them torn down to see what i could find. The trans had a rough gear on the cluster gear. That gear alone was nearly 300$ new. I found a used trans close by that had excellent looking gears for $60. I called and talked to Mr VanPelt and had them send the new gaskets and seals and as soon as I can get the front seal out of the input shaft tube. I'll have all new gaskets and seals in the trans. 

 

As for the bad clutch shudder, I guess I never heard it until iI put the car all back together. There were so many noises driving around in just the body shell. I knew the engine rear main had a small leak and i attributed the shudder to oil had gotten on the clutch disc. When I got everything apart everything was discolored and there were what looked like some burnt spots on the pressure plate and flywheel. I also think some of the grease I had put on the throw out bearing may have gottten slung onto the flywheel/pressure plate. I am cleaning off ALL of that grease before it goes back together. In getting everything ready to reassembly I lightly sanded the pressure plate and flywheel. The dark spots came off pretty easily. Under a dark spot on the flywheel and one on the clutch disc is a small gouge. nothing I think to worry about, its that small. I just wonder what could have gotten in there and did that. The colors on the flywheel in the picture is my orange shirt reflection, and the grey at the bottom of the pic is the reflection of the bell housing inside edge

 

I haven't attempted to deal with the overheat issue. I am going to reinstall every thing, and rework how the fan belt tension is controlled and start from there. 

 

There is one pic of the oil pump setup just for those that have never seen the G 226 oil pump. Its part of the front main bearing cap. Exactly like the Ford 2N and 9N tractors, 

 

Anyway, here are a few pics of what I have been up to. Now i am waiting on the clutch disc, and for me to get that front seal swapped to put it all back in. 

engine_bottoms_up.jpg

flywheel_cleaned_up.jpg

pressure_plate_cleaned_up.jpg

trimming_main_seal.jpg

oil_pump_shot.jpg

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7 hours ago, Spinneyhill said:

Does the arrow point to a crack in the solder?

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As a matter of fact yes. I did try to pull the thing apart and it won't budge. The more I ponder that the more you make me think I do need to pull it and get it brazed and Then I won't have this nagging doubt in my head as to the quality of oil flow. 

Edited by edhd58 (see edit history)

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