Jump to content

Marvel Carburetors


Recommended Posts

I am having serious problems with identifying the model of the Marvel carburettor on my 1923 Australian Buick. The main reason I am unsure is that the ID plate attached to the float chamber cover gives the patent date as July 16th 1912 –Jan 25th 1921. I need to try and find a rebuild kit if possible as my float just sinks like a stone and is in a very poor condition and must be replaced, a new needle and seat would also be an extremely good idea. Can anyone tell me who to contact for a rebuild kit – if they are available? I believe the carb should be a Marvel model K but I could easily be wrong.

GM were well known for using up old excess parts stock on export cars. I even met a guy at a car show many years ago who had an export model of a Pontiac fitted with a Chevrolet dashboard.

I also need a good float bowl cover for a Marvel VE on my 1930 Essex Super Six, mine is in six parts held together with Araldite which is slowly giving up the ghost.

Please help. Thanks David

post-95102-14314244445_thumb.jpg

post-95102-143142444429_thumb.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

David,

The float is a relatively easy fix. You can buy synthetic material to replace the cork or use three wine corks glued together with Crazy Glue to get enough material to make a replacement. Make it a big as you can still fit into the float bowl and coat the cork with Crazy Glue for best results. The old cork is now smaller than the original and should not be used as a size pattern. The needle seat can also be lapped into the seat using rubbing compound. As long as you are not using an electric fuel pump, you should be able to get it to shut off nicely.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

post-64273-143142444747_thumb.jpegDavid, My 1920 has the patent date from 1912 - 1918. So those patent dates sound right for a 1923. and the same patent dates as per that previous post. See photo of a 1920 carby, the float chamber, needle valve and air valve are all the same. The only difference, after 1920

the length of the heat riser was increased for two heat pipes instead of one. There are only two paper gaskets for the float chamber, which can be cut out, and as Mark said a new cork float can be made.

Rod

Link to post
Share on other sites

Also, be sure to check the steel tube inside the heat riser for holes.

If exhaust gets into the intake, it will never run right...

I used a piece of scrap aluminized exhaust pipe to replace the tube in my 24 Buick

Link to post
Share on other sites

If you don't want to make a new float yourself, Restoration Supply will sell you a nitrophyl one. Kits are not really available but it is not that difficult to cut your own gaskets. Try very hard to lap the needle and seat together. It is not that hard to test this with the carb off of the car. with the cover off of the float chamber and a foot and a half length of plastic tubing on the supply side, fill the tube with gas and watch to see that the float stops the flow when the chamber is full. Hopefully you are using a vacuum tank and not an electric fuel pump as these carbs will not take a lot of pressure.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Lots of Good ideas and I am working on most of them. Restoration supplies are winging a float over to me. I understand that there should be two paper gaskets. When I stripped the carb down for ultrasonic cleaning there were no gaskets. Can anyone tell where they should go. Also does anyone have an exploded drawing of the carb as don't want to get anything back together the wrong way round, unfortunately I am getting a little forgetful. I guess I will have to photograph everything I take apart in future. If anyone has a drawing I would appreciate a .jpg so I can blow it up to letter size. Thanks to all of you for being so helpful.

John B I should be your way at the end of September for my wife's family reunion and then on to Hershey, I guess a few jars would not go amiss..

David

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

Hallo Jones,

The needle can also be careful soldering.

And after soldering the needle in the application do, and then to face with the hammer a little tap on that, then it is closed again.

I've often done with carburettors.

Good luck Catrinus Kielstra

Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry. I didn't even see you post of a week ago. The two gaskets go (1) underneath the carb between the piece that hold the idle jet and on top under the lid to the float chamber. If you have access to an old dykes manual it has a very good drawing of this carb.post-53524-143142465114_thumb.jpg

post-53524-143142465086_thumb.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 5 years later...

G'day David,

I have a 23 McLaughlin with a K model carby. I just found this discussion. I am having troubles with mine. It appears to go through fuel so quickly, that the float doesn't have time to come up and close. It runs like a donkey until I manually shut the needle on the float. As soon as I do this it runs sweetly until it the requires me to let the float go and allow some fuel in. Any ideas?

Also, did you find a replacement carby that was reliable ?

 

Thanks,Richard.

Edited by Seton0 (see edit history)
Link to post
Share on other sites

Maybe this will help.  I have a Marvel overhaul manual that this is the center fold out.

 

It is in JPG format so you should be able to download it and increase it in size for better viewing.

 

img20200322_11444589.jpg

 

Edited by Larry Schramm (see edit history)
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...