Guest Coupfive Posted March 27, 2014 Share Posted March 27, 2014 Years ago I took out the valve that controlled the cabin temp. It had a cable going to it. Right now its bypassed but looking to correct it with the right part. Any suggestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DualQuadDave Posted March 27, 2014 Share Posted March 27, 2014 Hi, if you are talking about the heater bypass, I have an extra one I could sell you. They are hard to find these days. PM me your email and I will send pics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted March 28, 2014 Share Posted March 28, 2014 Or are you talking about the temp. control valve that sits on the inner passenger fender well. Heat hose goes into and comes out of it. Round, with lever for cable; elbows at 4:00 and 8:00 for the heater hoses. ???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Coupfive Posted March 28, 2014 Share Posted March 28, 2014 Or are you talking about the temp. control valve that sits on the inner passenger fender well. Heat hose goes into and comes out of it. Round, with lever for cable; elbows at 4:00 and 8:00 for the heater hoses. ????Yes thats what I am talking about Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted March 28, 2014 Share Posted March 28, 2014 Look in a recent Riview and contact some of the used parts vendors for one. I bought a new one (aftermarket) about 5 years ago but don't know if they're still out there or not.Ed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mozzie Posted March 19, 2016 Share Posted March 19, 2016 Sorry to drag up an old thread but I'm looking at the heater water control valve on my 64 Riviera. After finding it rather stiff to operate I took it off and put some water through it. It flows in both the on and off position - there is almost no restriction in the off position. If you blow air through it you can hear a slight restriction but it still flows. It's also come off it's bracket but I'm sure it could be soldered back on. So anyway, it seems to be shot. After reading all the threads I could find, it's obvious there is no replacement. I did find this: http://www.impalas.com/1961-62-impala-heater-control-valve-new-except-a-c-cars.html This valve looks almost identical. Even the bracket is exactly the same. The hoses run at about 45° instead of 90° but for the sake of a working OEM looking valve it's not a big deal. The obvious question is: is it the same operation as a 64' Riviera or the opposite? I'm not sure if mine is pull to close or push but obviously this one needs to be the same. I had a look at a 61 Impala engine bay and it sits on top of the heater box with the core/engine sides in reverse, so it appears it's most likely opposite. Has anyone else looked into this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Curran Posted March 19, 2016 Share Posted March 19, 2016 I remember seeing an ad either in a past Riview or Hemmings Motor News for someone who rebuilds the heater control valves. I'm sorry but I don't recall the name. Maybe someone else can chime in here? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted March 19, 2016 Share Posted March 19, 2016 If it's backwards for a '64, it would probably work on a '63. Probably worth a call to Impala Bob's to find out what you can about the lever position when closed. Ed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mozzie Posted March 20, 2016 Share Posted March 20, 2016 (edited) I contacted Classic Auto air and will wait and see what they say - they appear to have the Impala tap and claim to have many OEM taps and can rebuild others. I perhaps rather foolishly decided to carefully unpick the back of mine and see what was inside. There is virtually nothing to it. Just a plate which slides over a rubber bush on one port and a very fine rubber gasket around the edges to seal the two parts. Also the design appears to allow a small amount of water through in the off position - it's never completely off. That said I see nothing wrong with the condition of the inside - if it is meant to completely stop the water I don't see how. So maybe my tap was fine. I think that if one was inclined they could buy the impala tap and pilfer the two rubber parts out of it to recondition their old tap. A bit of sealant perhaps when pushing the edges back down on reassembly should prevent any leaking. A bit of an expensive risk but my opinion is no one wants to rebuild it because they can't guarantee the seal. Off position: Edited March 20, 2016 by Mozzie pictures added (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mozzie Posted March 25, 2016 Share Posted March 25, 2016 Classic Auto Air came back negative. I've decided to go with the 65' setup detailed in the ROA sources. Seems surprisingly straight forward - the article isn't big on detail but I'm guessing the vacuum line it says to T into uses the same trigger that is needed to open and close the valve. The systems from the 64' and 65' are totally different but it doesn't matter where the vacuum circuit is coming from I suppose. I'd rather put the valve in the 65' position though than next to the STV valve shown in the ROA. I'm not sure if I can use a 65' bracket on the manifold but if I can I'll try and find one and just run the vacuum line longer. To me this is the best solution - just ditch the cable setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted March 25, 2016 Share Posted March 25, 2016 (edited) Here are a couple of pictures that I added to one of my previous posts, you'll see in these pictures of a '64 and a '65 Heater and A/C controls tjat they're not the same. The vacuum for the temp valve on the '65 comes from the control panel, not a T. In order to use a vacuum controlled heater valve, you'll need to swap out your '64 controls for a set of '65 controls. The 64 is the first picture with 5 ports, the 65 is the second picture with 6 ports. That 6th port controls the temperature valve. Sorry. Edited March 25, 2016 by RivNut add pictures (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mozzie Posted March 25, 2016 Share Posted March 25, 2016 (edited) Thanks Ed, but to clarify what it's saying in the ROA article (http://rivowners.org/members-only/Tech/heatervalve.html) is on a 63 or 64 you can simply run a T into the vacuum hose that goes to the center nipple on the dash vacuum motor next to the STV valve (A/C cars only). I remember someone mentioning the article that Jim Cannon wrote (I actually thought it was you that mentioned it but it could have been anyone) and went and found it on the website. Like I said, it seems surprisingly simple and I was a bit skeptical as I remember reading that the controls are totally different. I can't believe they redesigned the controls after only one year (actually I can believe it). Maybe if Jim reads this he can confirm it works on the 64 as described... Edited March 25, 2016 by Mozzie originally not clear (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted March 25, 2016 Share Posted March 25, 2016 I do recall that Jim Tee'd a vacuum line to operate a vacuum operated water valve on his '63. I was under the impression that you were going to try to emulate a complete '65 system. When you figure out which vacuum line to tap, let the rest of us know. I happen to have an NOS '64 valve for my '64 but that's only because I bought the wrong one for my '63 a number of years ago and never returned it. Sometimes two wrongs make a right and I can use this example to continue to hoard stuff (which my wife can't understand.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96roadmaster Posted March 25, 2016 Share Posted March 25, 2016 I desperately need one for my 64. The valve is currently bypassed and the only thing not working on my car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted March 25, 2016 Share Posted March 25, 2016 Alternatives have been posted on different threads here on the forum. It's just a matter of searching them out and looking at what others have found. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96roadmaster Posted March 26, 2016 Share Posted March 26, 2016 35 minutes ago, RivNut said: Alternatives have been posted on different threads here on the forum. It's just a matter of searching them out and looking at what others have found. Thanks Ed. I found the threads mentioning converting to a 65, which I am not interested in, and the Napa replacement part that seems to be discontinued (I called them on Wednesday). Napa valve: http://www.napaonline.com/p/TEM935032 Are there any other alternatives I've missed? Will be happy to do a search again if I can get a keyword hint? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted March 26, 2016 Share Posted March 26, 2016 I resorted to one of my favorite ways to search for parts - Google images - and came up with these two. http://www.amazon.com/Four-Seasons-74827-Heater-Valve/dp/B001B7BUA0/ref=zg_bs_15723841_2 http://www.amazon.com/Four-Seasons-74828-Heater-Valve/dp/B001B7BUAU/ref=zg_bs_15723841_3 I don't know which way the valves are closed but these are fully mechanical and appear that they could work. Ed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96roadmaster Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 Thanks again Ed. Will try to figure out if I can get these to work. The original part on my car was rusted through and the shop bypassed it until I found a replacement part...which never happened. So I'm looking to figure this out and get it over with now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rocket 88 Posted March 29, 2016 Share Posted March 29, 2016 I had a problem with 2 Temp. control valves leaking, and switched to the following to cure the problem. ( NAPA) http://forums.aaca.org/topic/261942-64-riviera-temp-control-valve/?hl=%2Btemp+%2Bcontrol+%2Bvalve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96roadmaster Posted March 29, 2016 Share Posted March 29, 2016 56 minutes ago, Rocket 88 said: I had a problem with 2 Temp. control valves leaking, and switched to the following to cure the problem. ( NAPA) http://forums.aaca.org/topic/261942-64-riviera-temp-control-valve/?hl=%2Btemp+%2Bcontrol+%2Bvalve I loved your thread and write up! I stopped by my local Napa last week to pick up the same valve and replicate your install. They told me it has since been discontinued, but I'm going to try another store location tomorrow to confirm. Really excited to get this working! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mozzie Posted March 29, 2016 Share Posted March 29, 2016 Classic Auto Air said they could sell me an alternative valve for around $50. I didn't bother to find out what it was but you could ask them what they can do for you - I imagine it's not particularly factory looking. They said they needed to know if it was a push or pull to open - by my understanding it's push to open as it sits in the engine bay (at least according to the photos I took). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest atomickneedrop Posted March 30, 2016 Share Posted March 30, 2016 Here are a couple of images of the 4 seasons switch Ed showed above. The switch is in the closed position. I used the original bracket with slight modification (bent it ). Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96roadmaster Posted March 30, 2016 Share Posted March 30, 2016 On 3/29/2016 at 6:53 PM, Rocket 88 said: I had a problem with 2 Temp. control valves leaking, and switched to the following to cure the problem. ( NAPA) http://forums.aaca.org/topic/261942-64-riviera-temp-control-valve/?hl=%2Btemp+%2Bcontrol+%2Bvalve Just to update...I found the part! The guys at the other location special ordered it and should be here tomorrow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rocket 88 Posted March 31, 2016 Share Posted March 31, 2016 Glad you found the part, NAPA had to also order mine also from another state. Rocket 88 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telriv Posted April 4, 2016 Share Posted April 4, 2016 Years ago I rebuilt mine by cutting it open & re-soldering. Actually takes MUCH more time than I could charge for. Really not interested in doing this because it takes SO MUCH time. Still works the way intended with NO leakage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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