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battery keeps dying while driving.


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The Auto-Lite MAB starter motors that came with 34-36 Auburns draw 775 amps. There are other Auto-Lite starters that draw more current than that. In fact most of the pre-war Auto-Lite starters draw more than 500 amps.

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Yes, your right. More amperage in a 6 volt system, than a 12 volt system. Even with that said, The cheep load tester 95% of the time will give you an indication of the problem. If smoke is coming out of the starter and off the cables, you do not even need a tester to tell you they need replacing/ rebuilding. Dandy Dave!

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If there is a starting problem (slow starter) try starting the car for about 20-30 seconds, then feel the cables,, every bit of length. If there is a problem with the cables, you will be able to feel the excessive heat from the bad area of the cable, and this goes for the connectors as well.

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Just a note but every time I have changed a slow cranking starter with a rebuilt it spins much faster and uses less current.

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A 'rebuilt' starter is rather nebulous. Does that mean it gets a new armature and field coils along with bushings and brushes. more than likely not. Unless you do it your self. The problem I have found with old 30's Auto-Lite starters is, corrosion occurs between the commutator end plate and the rivets to which the grounding are attached. They will beep the ohm meter but when the starter requires a lot of power they just don't cut it, no matter how well the starter is grounded, it all comes back to those two brushes.

The fix I have, is to drill two holes and tap them for a #10 flathead machine screw in the housing adjacent to the grounding brushes. Be sure to countersink them so the dust band fits on. Attach the brush leads to the ends of the machine screws with a nut and lock washer.

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A 'rebuilt' starter is rather nebulous. Does that mean it gets a new armature and field coils along with bushings and brushes. more than likely not. Unless you do it your self. The problem I have found with old 30's Auto-Lite starters is, corrosion occurs between the commutator end plate and the rivets to which the grounding are attached. They will beep the ohm meter but when the starter requires a lot of power they just don't cut it, no matter how well the starter is grounded, it all comes back to those two brushes.

The fix I have, is to drill two holes and tap them for a #10 flathead machine screw in the housing adjacent to the grounding brushes. Be sure to countersink them so the dust band fits on. Attach the brush leads to the ends of the machine screws with a nut and lock washer.

I have found more often than not, It is the little things that count. Leave no leaf unturned. If all else fails, look for the simple and obvious. Attack problems methodically. Dandy Dave!

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If there is a starting problem (slow starter) try starting the car for about 20-30 seconds, then feel the cables,, every bit of length. If there is a problem with the cables, you will be able to feel the excessive heat from the bad area of the cable, and this goes for the connectors as well.

Yes sir, Sometimes just replacing the cables and cleaning/ replacing dirty and bad connections will wake things up and get the Starter Angels begin to sing. Do you like to hear Wooorrr Worrrrrr Woooor. or Wee wee weee? Dandy Dave!

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