Wilf Sedanet

1949 Buick Super Sedanet (56S)

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So this is a little off topic but hopefully not quite...

I will visit Florida (Orlando / Kissimmee) for 11 days next year. Of course I will visit Kissimmee on a Saturday night but are there more places I just have to visit? Shops, car musea, junk yards or anything else? :)

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On 11-11-2017 at 6:08 PM, 2carb40 said:

Nice job! Are those brake lines copper or do they just look like it in photo?

They are indeed copper. 

 

By the way, when parking in its spot I had to go back and forth a few times. When changing from reverse to forward it made a metallic sounding clunk/click/ping that reminded me of the sound of an universal joint with a bit of play. 

 

Strange thing is that before and after parking (where I had to constantly change gears) the sound wasn’t there. 

 

My mechanic suspects it is a bit of play in the spider gears but he could not see in the workshop manual how to get play out of these parts. 

 

What is the wisest thing to do? Is it something urgent? 

 

My tranny is not 100% too (it already wasn’t but not the rest of the drivetrain is so much better it is more noticeable). Reverse ‘chatters’. It will pick up grip and lose it intermittently at slow speeds and when releasing the gas pedal it will brake on the gripping part, standing still. In the D the car is almost impossible to drive on a 4 column mechanic bridge; to overcome the steep climb I have to rev it up quite a lot. In the L it will grip better. 

 

There is no knowledge about the Dynaflow on this part of the pond so I must hope it will hang in there for a while. I suspect the brake band of the reverse is out on its way. The D however I am not sure about. Is that much slip inherent to the design of the tranny or should it be able to drive up a small steep ramp normally in D?

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Winter is coming so I’m starting some small in house projects. I am currently refurbishing an old clock, planning to turn it in to a digital one without gutting too much of the clockwork inside. I will share some pictures of the internals and how I removed different parts. 

 

Only part I cannot remove is the arms. Maybe because I am too anxious/gentle but pulling on them doesn’t work. Does anyone know how to remove the arms without breaking them? :)

 

Another project is a working temp gauge, for which I also want to use the original face with a home made stepper motor solution (based on the X27 switec used in modern GMs). For this I want to use a modern temp sensor in the place where the broken cappilary tube is screwed in (back of the engine). Is it true that the original tube retaining bolt is 1/2” NPT?

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On ‎11‎/‎21‎/‎2017 at 3:11 AM, Wilf Sedanet said:

 

On ‎11‎/‎21‎/‎2017 at 3:11 AM, Wilf Sedanet said:

By the way, when parking in its spot I had to go back and forth a few times. When changing from reverse to forward it made a metallic sounding clunk/click/ping that reminded me of the sound of an universal joint with a bit of play. 

 

Strange thing is that before and after parking (where I had to constantly change gears) the sound wasn’t there. 

 

My mechanic suspects it is a bit of play in the spider gears but he could not see in the workshop manual how to get play out of these parts. 

 

What is the wisest thing to do? Is it something urgent? 

 

My 56 will make that noise, especially after it is warmed up.  The main thing I do is try to remember to get the engine to it's slowest idle speed ( mine is set for 500 RPM) before putting it into any of the gears.  But it still will make that noise.  The next thing I do is try to let up on the brake a bit as I am putting it into gear. The car will move a bit but that noise is greatly reduced, although not eliminated.  BTW, I have had my car AND this issue since 1975. I did drive it to Flint Michigan from NY twice, and to Sandusky Ohio once.  I use it a lot around town now and have put 800 miles on it this summer alone.  So I would say just monitor it for now.  And if it seems less harsh when the engine is not fully warmed up yet,  I would do what my brother always advises " drive it till it breaks, then you will know what it was."

 

On ‎11‎/‎21‎/‎2017 at 3:11 AM, Wilf Sedanet said:

My tranny is not 100% too (it already wasn’t but not the rest of the drivetrain is so much better it is more noticeable). Reverse ‘chatters’. It will pick up grip and lose it intermittently at slow speeds and when releasing the gas pedal it will brake on the gripping part, standing still. In the D the car is almost impossible to drive on a 4 column mechanic bridge; to overcome the steep climb I have to rev it up quite a lot. In the L it will grip better. 

 

There is no knowledge about the Dynaflow on this part of the pond so I must hope it will hang in there for a while. I suspect the brake band of the reverse is out on its way. The D however I am not sure about. Is that much slip inherent to the design of the tranny or should it be able to drive up a small steep ramp normally in D?

 

This sounds like it's possible your trans fluid is down a pint.  But keep in mind that the "dynaslow" insult may have been earned in the early generations of these transmissions.  In Drive (D), you may well need to give the car more gas to move it up a steep grade, especially if you have no momentum at the start of the hill.  Low (L) is a different band in the trans, and is meant to help with this situation.  However the L band will not automatically come into play when in D.  You should not feel bad switching to L manually to get up that grade.  Just practice first so that you do not pull the lever into Reverse(R)  while moving forward.  There should be a deterrent to pulling the car into reverse, but it's not going to be a fail safe lock out of that action.

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You're welcome Will.  It always makes me shake my head when people jump into a rebuild of the Dynaflow.  There was a fellow here who bought his 49 in Georgia and drove it several hundred miles to our area.  Then he thought the trans was going, apparently because of a clinking noise while driving, although he never actually said that.  So he takes it to a trans guy who, unfortunately, I recommended.  This trans guy proceeds to yank and rebuild the trans without prior approval and then whacks the guy with an $1800 bill.  Now the guy is pissed at me, and it still "doesn't seem right" to him, then the trans guy retires and goes out of business. 

 

One day a year or two later I happened to be behind him on a tour and I pulled him over.  I asked for a rag, and I crawled under the car and wrapped the parking brake cable where the grommet was missing in the cable support on the torque tube.  He was amazed!  I was disgusted!  What a way to beef a retirement plan.

Edited by JohnD1956 (see edit history)
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That’s why I love forums like these, so one can share their knowledge and experience and others can learn from the successes and failures. Especially here overseas I am always wary of the knowledgeability of people who call themselves experts. 

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What a great experience being at the Kissimmee Friday & Saturday Night Cruise. Now I know for sure I live in the wrong country… 

 

 

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On 08/12/2017 at 10:05 AM, JohnD1956 said:

One day a year or two later I happened to be behind him on a tour and I pulled him over.  I asked for a rag, and I crawled under the car and wrapped the parking brake cable where the grommet was missing in the cable support on the torque tube.  He was amazed!  I was disgusted!  What a way to beef a retirement plan.

 

I had that same experience driving my Limited with the parking brake cable bouncing against the torque tube. Didn't find out about it till I bought my Special and had to use the parking brake due to the parking pawl not engaging. 

That rubber grommet was worn out on both cars but... I noticed the clicking sound disappear one day by chance when I pressed on the parking brake to see if they were capable of stopping the car proving indeed that they were "Emergency" brakes. With the tension on the cable, the clicking disappeared.

 

Once I replaced the grommets they were quiet and then only had to check the fluid levels due to the typical Dynaflow gasket leaks. ;)  Cheaper to replenish than a rebuild which at that time was quoted at $300.00 for just labour to remove and replace... then add the rebuild costs.... 

Too much money for an 18 year old!

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The seasin has begun so I’ve made some miles with Rosetta. 

 

Rosetta is the name my girlfriend gave to the Buick because Sister Rosetta Tharpe’s music befits the car real good. I later found out Sister Rosetta Tharpe also loved Buicks.

 

Anyway, Rosetta will need some extra attention because the radiator is slowly retiring itself so despite beginning of the season she will be worked in soon. Some other things will be done at the same time. Lowering the seat will be one of them. I guess the previous owner, who had redone the interior, had heightened the front seat because he was as tall as the car. With my 6’2” this makes driving a literal pain in the neck. 

 

Another thing is the left door lock. I can use the key but I can open the door regardless. Also the hinge is sagging and bites through the paint. 

 

Now I found some parts that can maybe solve the problem but before I buy I’d like to get some advice. Do I only need springs or do I also need the hub? In other words: can the hub be the reason the door hinge is sagging or is that only a spring issue (I guess the hub grips the hinge)?

 

Springs will set me back $65 but with the hub I’ll have to pay $140 so I’d rather know before I buy stuff I don’t need. 

 

See pictures below.

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If, by the word hub, you mean the pin in your picture, then here's a test that may help determine what you need.

 

Open the door in question, and lift up on the outside edge.  Grab it by the bottom and rock it skyward. 

 

If the pin is worn out, then the door will visibly rock at the hinge. If the pin is tight then the whole car will rock, and the pin is okay.  In that case you may just need to adjust the door hinges.  In either case I doubt the springs in the hinge will impact the alignment of the door.  

Edited by JohnD1956 (see edit history)

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 Not to say this is always the case, but mostly door sagging so much its' contacting the body is due to worn out door hinges. Barring damage, there are what wears and causes the poor fit.    New pins and bushings, can be bought from several vendors, and aren't too costly. Installation is a bit more of a pain, though.

 John's suggestion will tell you for sure whether or not this is the issue.

 Keith

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Thanks guys, I am sorry I made a mistake (it was early this morning). I meant the door handle is sagging, not the door itself per se. This next picture will explain it better: will only the white painted springs do or will I also need the white painted hub?

 

problems are:

 

- sagging door handle that that goes lower than it should (bites through paint)

 

- key works, key makes locking noise but will not prevent the door handle from opening the door

 

- the door knob and interior door handle work fine

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This week I hope to get some work done on Rosetta. I bought door springs on eBay as well as a new water pump that was on its way out. The radiator is also being recored and resoldered and I once again ordered lots of stuff at Bob’s. Luckily I have ordered a lot of stock parts there previously so the freeze plugs are in house so flushing the engine is already taking place. 

 

Because ordering overseas is so expensive I always buy more than I need at Bob’s to keep the shipping costs less than the value of the items. As I have already ordered almost every parafernalia and small things I finally bought two accessories that I always wanted but always postponed (because they’re not really necessary: the exhaust reflector and the washer jar lid. Besides radiator hoses I also bought the engine gasket kit because we will be cleaning the outside and water channels and check/overhaul the ignition parts and check the valves. 

 

The engine is is a bit tired but we will not overhaul it since that will set me back in time and money way too far to be a realistic option right now. 

 

After the radiator / engine clean session I will drive once again and check the other to dos later. It’s still a loooooong list with lowering of the seat one of the first. Rewiring will be a close second. 

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As always Bob's delivered fast (got the package last Wednesday, that's four working days int'l), still waiting on the eBay stuff. My mechanic got much more done than I thought. Half the car is taken apart now, somewhat scary but because I know it's for the good it also excites me a lot.

 

The engine has been quite disassembled. ? 

 

We cleaned out a lot of crud from the engine cooling system today. There was a lot of buildup behind the freeze plugs. The thermostat was original by the way. I never seen such a system, so cool! We're going to place a 160F new one. We were also working on the antenna, replacing it with a new one. We were working on the door lock, the trunk lock, the radiator is a the radiator shop, my mech filled the original shock absorbers and those seem to work quite good once again. He also shortened that ugly exhaust and at Bob's I bought a exhaust tip cover to really finish it off. He also removed the interior in the front, removed the front seat so we can make it lower and may be further back to fit it more to me. Also because the interior was out he checked the Dynaflow settings because it will not drive uphill in D, only in L, and in R it has serious chatter.

 

I took the valve cover, valve stem cover and spark plug cover home with me for a good cleanup and respray. All in all a good day (although my mech is already working on it for two weeks). ?

 

Because TTIWWP:

 

 

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Edited by Wilf Sedanet (see edit history)
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Now that I have a lot of engine parts off I wonder what color I will give them. I’ve read that the specials had a bluish green color and the ‘49 super should be some sort of blue. Should it be the same as the blue on the oil filter? As that is original (the square warning label is painted and not a sticker).

 

I am also pondering about coloring it in interior colors or even maybe the exterior color to make the car a little bit more special and interesting and making the engine look more as if it is part of the whole car (blue stands out a lot from the rest of the car). Most engines are not colored to the exact factory color anyway. Now it’s flat black over blue and metal. Anything is better than that.

 

By the way: the door lock on the left side seems to miss some kind of connection between the cilinder and the door handle. Does anyone have pictures of how it should look like? I can’t find anything in the workshop manual and the body manual. Probably to not make it thieves too easy back in the day… :) 

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My 50 engine was painted with this shade as recommended by few members of the forum. I’m going original color. If you go this route don’t be fooled with the color of the can cap. Got these from “Jegs”

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I believe that’s the one but give me few minutes and will search for the can to take a picture. The oil filter housing and lid were painted as on the picture 

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I was a little surprised by the correct colors of the oil filter from this era, but then if you compare it to a period AC Delco box, it makes perfect sense!

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I’m thinking about keeping the oil filter as is because of the nice patina. Maybe I will change my mind after painting the rest of the engine parts, but for now I love the fact that the warning label is painted, not a sticker. 

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This is not a picture of my engine bay but found this a while ago where they claimed to be a correct resto colors. Not confirmed 

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Edited by Elpad (see edit history)
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Thank you so much! Very enlightening :) 

 

I found a standard RAL color that comes awfully close: 5018. It’s actually a classic enamel color used on machinery and equipment back in the days so I can’t go wrong on the color. ?

Edited by Wilf Sedanet (see edit history)

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