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Bling86

HELP: trouble with 1966 Riviera hideaway lights

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Hi all, I am fairly new to the forum and own a 66 riviera for one year now.

My car's hideaway motor do not operate with the light knob (i.e. on:lowers off:retracts), the motor however lowers/retracts headlights manually through a seperate switch fitted on the dash. So basically i have to switch on the lights and lower them from that seperate switch.

Now i want to get the hideway lights operation back to its original state. Any ideas of the parts i will need getting checked and replaced?

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I don't know exactly what your problem is but I think I'd start by getting a wiring diagram for your car and see where it's been altered. Perhaps a relay has been bypassed or some such scenario. Look to see where the separate switch is wired in, what it's taking the place of, and things of that sort. Chances are you'll find it yourself by doing this than hoping someone just happens to have had the same thing go wrong.

Ed

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Ed is right. Attempts to help you diagnose an electrical problem when someone has modified factory wiring would likely be a futile effort.

I can tell you most problems associated with an inoperative headlamp motor are related to the main and auxiliary headlamp relays. One on the driver side firewall and one in the right front rad support/fender area. Typcially the one on the firewall will prevent the lamps from opening and the aux relay in the right front will prevent them from closing if not working but really, the problem could be any number of places especially if someone was already working on it unsuccessfully.

The factory shop manual has an awesome color wiring diagram as well as pages specifically for the headlamp wiring. If you don't have a shop manual thats the first thing you should spend money on because you will need for many things besides this.

Your first order of business will be to insure the wiring is restored back to the way it should be without the manual switch that was added. Then from there with a diagram and an electrical tester you can begin tracing it out.

I met a guy once who was very proud of himself because in 4 hours he rewired a 67's headlamp motor circuitry adding switches and relays to the make the motor "work like it should". He didn't bother to get a shop manual with a wiring diagram to figure out why it quit working to begin with. He had no idea the auxiliary relay existed and I didn't have the heart to tell him at that point.

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Recently had the same problem with my car. All it was? I removed the relays, cleaned all connections, made good grounds and it came back to life.

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Jason, I found this post because I am now on the list of lights dont go down but they go up. I removed the aux on the pass side, took it apart and cleaned it thinking it was the down relay but based on this post i think its the one near drivers side fender. Hope i did not ruin it. There are two near there. Is it the one that is closest to the fender? 66 Riv

post-110186-143143093691_thumb.jpg

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Jason, I found this post because I am now on the list of lights dont go down but they go up. I removed the aux on the pass side, took it apart and cleaned it thinking it was the down relay but based on this post i think its the one near drivers side fender. Hope i did not ruin it. There are two near there. Is it the one that is closest to the fender? 66 Riv

[ATTACH=CONFIG]306995[/ATTACH]

Make sure the ignition key is in the "on" position for the lights to close.

Tom Mooney

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Yes the relay closest to fender (pretty sure). My car has been apart so long I am going from memory. Its the one with an orange wire w/black stripe, brown wire, black wire w/light blue stripe, etc.

With the headlamp switch on try tapping on the relay. If they still don't go down remove the wiring plug from relay and with a jumper wire from battery apply 12 volt+ to the brown wire. If lights go down, relay is problem. If they still don't go down remove the wiring plug from motor and apply same 12 volt to the terminal on motor the brown wire was connected to.

To test this relay apply 12 volt+ to the relay terminal where the black w/light blue strip wire connects. The case of the relay must be grounded so if unbolted for the test be sure its grounded somewhere. You should be able to hear the relay clicking.

Report back what you found.

Edited by JZRIV (see edit history)

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Bling86, do you live near the Meadowlands in Northern New Jersey? I would gladly take a look at the lights for you.

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