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wishbone

Another LZ question

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Along with the ignition problems, I think my starter is turning the engine very (very) slow. New battery and ground strap. Any ideas? I have the ground going from the + terminal on the battery to a head bolt. Is that enough. Should I add another from the engine to the chassis? Perhaps the starter is tired? I saw one on ebay for starting bid $150. Anyone have a good used one out there?

thanks again, Erik

Edited by wishbone
misspell (see edit history)

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they dont crank

ike a new car...but if engine is new, or if it hasnt run in long time..it will crank even slower..

you must. absolutely must use 6 volt cables..they have lass resistance and do the job..once you get it running,

drive it, get the thing hot and lubed.....use 20 50 oil.i like mobil one

Starter is real tough..if it is oil and nasty, have it rebuilt...or buy on..very common

ford starter...look in your area for generator shop...50 bucks.. new bushings, brushes and resurface

armature commutator.

Edited by Mssr. Bwatoe (see edit history)

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Along with the ignition problems, I think my starter is turning the engine very (very) slow. New battery and ground strap. Any ideas? I have the ground going from the + terminal on the battery to a head bolt. Is that enough. Should I add another from the engine to the chassis? Perhaps the starter is tired? I saw one on ebay for starting bid $150. Anyone have a good used one out there?

thanks again, Erik

You should also ground the chassis (body), usually at the battery box.

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+1 on what Mssr. Bwatoe said. Bigger is better when it comes to 6 volt battery cables.

Run ground wires or straps from the motor to both chassis and frame. Don't trust 70+ year old fasteners to do the job for you. I use copper bolts and washer to complete the connections. Found them on close out at my fasteners store. Another idea I use is to run a ground wire from a clean screw on the gas tank to chassis. I also run ground wires to my head light buckets. I really do like to see where I'm going after dark.

Bad grounds will drive you to drink.

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The starter solenoid could be the culprit. The contacts inside them gets burned over the years of use and that causes a high resistance. Had that to happen to me on one of my Fords a few years back.

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I'm on it...I'll beef up the grounds and check out the starter solenoid first thing tomorrow.

thanks, E

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2 more things and I think we covered everything. Remove the starter from the car and REALLY cleaned the surface of starter and the surface it bolts to on the pan. This is where it

gets it's ground, ALSO make sure the small attaching bracket that goes from the starter to the pan edge' is reinstalled. This helps keep the starter 90 degrees to the pan area. The P/N is

51A11140. Mac's Antique auto parts is one source. Be careful when removing the starter, the long bolts that hold starter to engine , also hold the starter together. Have Fun!

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Larry, I also need this part (didn't know it but I do). Mac's may carry this item but under a different p/n. I did find it under the p/n 51A11140 at Joe's Antique Ford. I hate to think how many parts the PO left off my car that I don't know about.

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