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wishbone

ignition resistor question

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I'm unfamiliar with the v12 distributor and ignition set up of the early lincolns. I've started checking around with the volt meter to see what or if I have voltage and where. At the distributor one time I measured 6V at each terminal...then just this afternoon I had 6V at one and 2.6V at the other. I also checked the resistors themselves but they are reading equal but to infinity. One side was hot and the other not. I've been told that I should have around 4V at the distributor.

Does anyone have photos of how their ignition resistors are wired up? The fella that I bought the car from re-wired the car with OEM type wiring and it looks good and correct, but with this issue I would like to check with someone who has experience and a good running car.

thanks, Erik

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Im not certain about an ohm reading but you are correct about 4volts ..Battery power is provided at bulkhead lighting circuit breaker..as are the radio lights etc, it feeds from an obviously heavy wire about in the center..

maybe yellow wire is 6 batt volts, splits to each resistor back out tol the coils.

Resistors fail ...just like an old ballast resistor on a mopar...wire wound .......simple task, in a difficult spot..or did he replace them with a modern sub....follow your coil wires into the dash..pull up a wire diagram for color codes. this is ford, we have a second resistor sharing power

Edited by Mssr. Bwatoe (see edit history)

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Did you turn the motor over between the two test? In other words, are the points in a different place between the two tests? If yes, then that could throw your second reading off.

If couple of things don't add up...if you are getting a reading of infinity (that's a resistance value) on both resistors then that would mean they are open. If they are then there would be no voltage at the coils ever, but you stated you had voltage at the coils??? I think you need to retest. Are you using a digital DVM? I personally hate that kind of meter for this kind of trouble shooting. Give me my old trusty Simpson 260 analog meter every time.

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Thanks for the information. I'm fairly certain that I have the original type resistors....similar to the one in the photo posted above. I'll recheck my resistance values and get that straight. I have both types of testers (digital and analog). Interestingly, I have a huge old fashion tester that comes in a leather case. Beautiful tool and very sensitive (accurate). It was my father's. I may just dig it out and give it a try. Why not use tools of the era to work on the cars of the era?

I'll post back with results. Maybe I'll have some better information for you.

thanks, erik

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Here's a diagram of the breaker-resistor panel under the dash. #6 & 7 go to the coils. Battery power comes in on #24. The color codes match the wiring diagram in the manual and the numbers are the ones used by Narragansett for their reproduction harnesses.

post-31572-143142403266_thumb.jpg

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This might help. Voltage at the coil terminal(s) vary be tween ~4 and 6volts. When the points in the distributor are open (no current flow) you read 6 (battery) volts. When the points close (current flow) you read ~4volts. the 2 sets of points never open and close at the same time.

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