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Stevemo

Looking at a 1934 Dodge Special Deluxe

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The 34 Plymouth PE at the asking price of $10K seems to be a bargain and appears to be kept well with the stated recent upgrades of New w/w tires, exhaust system and battery. New electrical harness.

This would seem to indicate an owner that is keeping his car in good repair with the only real issue being whether the body parts are solid.

An interested buyer could request further pictures of the undercarriage.

I bought a 34 Plymouth PE in Ontario last year and it probably is in no better shape than this one for sale in Philedelphia for which I paid considerably more.

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The front fenders with the dual side mounts I don't think were ever reproduced in fiberglass. From the pictures there appears to be some minimal rust showing on the underside of the sidemount fender which would not be there on fiberglass. The car seems well outfitted with the dual horns, front bumper guards and the brightwork looks impecable.

Of course the asking price is considerably more than that of the 34 Plymouth PE from Philedelphia in the earlier post. More pictures of the interior, motor and undercarriage would help to further evaluate whether value for money can be had. Perhaps you can post them if the owner provides them now or in April when available.

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I suppose I could get photos and numbers before I go see the car but that will take over a month since the owner is out and about for the winter. Bringing a person out of Hemmings is pretty unlikely as this car is an 8 hour drive from an international airport but I'll check my March copy and see if there is anybody close by to "no where" :o For the time being I will search for some factory manuals as I think they'll come in handy even if I don't get this particular car.

I did contact the owner of the Plymouth and asked for undercarriage photos but was declined. I am guessing this is because they've gone through a hard winter but I needed more info on the car.

Cheers, Steve

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I went ahead and bought an original Canadian version of the 1934 DR Parts Book from ebay. There were 3 "watchers" so too bad to them...just kidding. I'll be able to provide photos of individual pages on request in a couple days/weeks.

Steve

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Steve,

I must be getting dementia, but someone has sent me photos of that car before and I was trying to think of who it was. They went there are took photos for me and for the life of me I can't remember who it was.

I'll trawl through my emails and see if I can find it because if I can you can ask them directly about the car.

Ian

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From the pictures posted and other comments this is what I see :

Running board looks as though it may have a cover over it ( or it may be the photo due to lack of light ). I agree that there is a bit of rust under the front guard, may only be surface. I believe the front guards are steel as I too don't believe the ones with spare tyres were reproduced but I could be wrong. Panels look straight and there is no rust in the bonnet where it meets the radiator shell. Chrome work on the radiator shell looks really good ( this would cost $1500 to $2000 to get replated ) so a good one there. The headlights and horns are complete as with the tail lights, bumbers and luggage rack. Yes the wooden bits on the luggage rack have been added as the chrome ones were only thin and often would flatten out if something heavy was placed on them. You can buy half oval brass moldings, braze thread to them, shape the ends and get them plated to correct that if you want to. The rear D windows also look complete but check for rust.

It appears to be a complete good original car. Interior shots, engine etc needed but not bad at all from initial photos.

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Hi Ian,

I figured the "rust" was strands of fibreglass. I suppose rust is better if it hasn't gotten through to the other side yet. I can't believe the cost to replate something, I was under the impression that they just hang the parts on wires and it plates itself but I guess I could be wrong on that too. :D I was at a copper refinery a couple years ago which did something similar but at a much larger scale and it was quite interesting.

If you check your Private Messages you'll see who I got the photos from. I am sure you have bumped into him on this or another forum, I think you may have mentioned him to me at one point. He is going to get him in contact with the previous owner so I can determine if this car is a trailer queen or a mile eater. I'm hoping the latter.

Cheers, Steve

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I had a good chat with the previous owner / restorer this afternoon and got a bit more information about the Burgundy car. Believe it or not this car was restored 25-30 years ago when he was in his late teens. The engine got a basic rebuild back then including rings, bearings, and seals and was only taken on one 20 mile trip so it never even got broken in. He said he only ran it once a year since then to drive it around in his yard because he never plated it.

There are a couple issues with the car but I wanted to ask about one in particular. He said it has a persistent rear main seal leak and he also said something else rather strange that I suspect is related. He actually brazed over the engine crankcase vent to seal the engine as he thought it was a "hole" in the engine. Do these cars have enough blow-by to blow out the rear main seal? He said the seal is felt and can be changed by removing the oil pan and rear main bearing. If I were to get the car would it be best to put a dump pipe on the engine or re-plumb it to a PVC valve type system?

Regards, Steve

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There could be some blow by, especially with very low mileage the rings may not have seated. But unless he also put a non-breather oil filler cap on the pressure should not build up in the crankcase. You will want to either re-install the draft tube to get some cross flow ventilation in the crankcase or install a PCV system. Vintage Power Wagons stocks the stuff the military used for PCV in the 40s and that would not look too out of place.

I've never heard of a felt rear main seal. Unless Dodge is radically different than Plymouth, it came with a rope seal. It is kind of sort of possible to replace it with the engine in the car. I was able to get the leak on my '33 under reasonable control once by doing that. Had to remove the flywheel if I recall correctly. I think that Best Gaskets has a neoprene replacement for the rope seal. Might be worth looking into.

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Well, I got a couple photos that are in focus. The battery cable is sitting on the engine because the car does not have a battery box. I should be getting some serial numbers late this week, owner is out of town again. How long are these cars nose to tail? The rear bumper looks like it sticks out 3 feet past the end of the car and it makes the other cars look tiny.

Cheers, Steve

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Hi Steve,

These car are quite long but I think the one your looking at has the rear bumper extended for a optional trunk ( I've attached a photo of Ken Sobel's car bumper set up ) Look at the tail light and a few inches past that is the end of the body. The rest between that and where the bumper is attached is to allow for the trunk. ( and spare tyre ). Any idea of price yet ? First impression is that it look great and mainly complete. Can't wait to see some more photo's......in focus ones too !!!! LOL

Looking promising.

Keep us updated

Ian

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Hi Ian,

The asking price is $18500. The internet has a very good memory so that's as much as I'd like to say about that here. It turns out the license plate on the car is from the last time it was on the road legally, back in 1959! The previous owner began restoration in 1978. I should be getting some paperwork including the build sheet at the end of this week for review, hopefully it is legible.

Do you feel that this car could have the wrong rear bumper on it or could be missing the trunk? I don't seem to be able to understand the bumper details shown in my parts books.

Thanks, Steve

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Hi Steve,

I think it has the right set up but for the optional trunk. Maybe trunk is missing or ordered with the trunk and it never arrived. I don't know the exact set up but potentially remove the extensions on the chassis and pull the rear bumper in.

I'll have a look in my book tonight when I get home and see if there is anything I can find for you.

Looking at the car and condition ( looks as though its been cared for ) I would say its reasonable pricing for an every day driver. Cant tell 100% without being up close though.

Something to work on and still drive it.

Ian

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Steve,

My parts book says " Trunk assembly includes rack and bumper extension " ( side and rear mounted tyres have different numbers ).

So I'm thinking maybe yours was set up for the trunk and rear mounted tyres hence the huge gap between the body and rear bumper.

Food for thought !

Ian

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The bumper ends do not appear to have much of a gap from the rear fenders at least in the pictures provided.

In pic 2 in response #44 it looks like a normal setup for a spare tire.

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I wouldn't say it is mounted too far from the car, it just seems to have a large bow in the bumper. You could stand between it and the car. One of the previous photos shows a rubber plug in the back of the car so I guess something has been removed from the car.

Some details on the first sale and first owner of the car came in today. It appears that the battery is out of warranty. :|

http://www.findagrave.com/cgi-bin/fg.cgi?page=gr&GRid=52568968

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Steve

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I wouldn't say it is mounted too far from the car, it just seems to have a large bow in the bumper. You could stand between it and the car. One of the previous photos shows a rubber plug in the back of the car so I guess something has been removed from the car.

Some details on the first sale and first owner of the car came in today. It appears that the battery is out of warranty. :|

http://www.findagrave.com/cgi-bin/fg.cgi?page=gr&GRid=52568968

[ATTACH=CONFIG]244129[/ATTACH]

Steve

What can you tell me about the instruction book lower right corner. I have several and all un-dated as Im sure yours is as well.

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Steve,

I may be able to help you with the plug you saw at the back of the car as mine had one too. when the car is equipped with side mount spare tyres the hole in the back of the car wasn't used as this is where the central mount went through the body for the single spare tyre mount. This hole was plugged with a push in plug and painted over. I had mine steel filled when the body was painted.

Ian

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Hi Jason,

I have 2 Instruction books, one original and one reprinted. They have the edition dates at the bottom and these are for Export cars.

Regards

Ian

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I have not seen the car in person so I don't know anything about the book. The guy who had it front 1978 up to last year did the restoration so it may have been something he bought over those years but the condition of the other paperwork could make it original.

Steve

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Out of interest, do you know what the difference is between the Owners Instruction Manual and the Instruction Book ?

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Having both I can say the difference between the two books is that the instruction book is by far a more condensed version of the vehicles mechanics. More intended for salesman possibly to sell the vehicle to prospective buyers.

Have them for Plymouth and Dodge

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Still looking for a car, I decided that the most recent car was too far from my original budget. If anybody wants it it is in Kapuskasing, Ontario, and I can give you Rosaire's phone # to talk to him about it. He tells me he has 34 cars up there and he's been very professional although I've never met him in person. Driving this car from Chicago to Kap would have been an epic journey. http://binged.it/1s8tjeQ

1934 Dodge's don't seem to come up for sale enough. :| The 1934 Hupmobile has a similar look along with double suicide doors and I've found a few fossilized versions for sale at 5 grand. The final bill would be the same but it seems like it would be more fun to have a car I rebuilt.

I will keep you posted.

Steve

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