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1916 Pierce Arrow - and my kids.


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Just wanted to relay a little story that reminded why i'm in this hobby.<P>Today I visited an old friend I?ve not visited in years. I Didn?t originally go to that part of town to visit Tom but my daughter had a craft class nearby so I figured I?d drive by and see if he was home.<P>I?ve known Tom for years, and I?ve known of the treasures lurking in his garage. Unfortunately they never seem to leave his garage. Not that he doesn?t have good intentions -- but life has a tendency to keep you busy. Therefore it came as a huge surprise to me to find him elbow deep in his pride and joy? a 1916 Pierce Arrow Limousine! <P>Tom bought the car years before I was born. Mid 1950?s sometime. He drove it plenty then, and a photo of it can be found in a late 1950?s issue of Antique Automobile magazine. It was his tour car, along with a wonderful 1925 Packard roadster he bought in 1951 from another very good friend of mine who passed away just a few years ago. (Boy, is he another great story to tell).<P>The Pierce somehow got stuck in the back of the garage over the years, and the one and only time I ever saw it it was covered in dust and boxes, and filled with misc. car parts. I?ve always dreamed of someday talking Tom out of the car but a growing family and a slim pocketbook have a tendency to keep dreams dreams.<P>But I digress ? I showed up in my 1947 Chrysler with my 3 daughters, 12, 10 and 3. I banged a few times on the garage door and out came Tom. I think he was happy to have someone to whom he could show off his latest accomplishments. After a few pleasantries we got down to it ? I found myself and my kids looking over Tom?s shoulder as he showed off his pride-and-joy.<P>The car is completely original ? paint, upholstery? you name it, but in remarkable great condition considering it?s age. Tom explained to all of us, in terms the kids could understand, about the car. Cast Aluminum body, left hand door for the driver, right hand center door for the passengers. The kids thought that the steering on the right side was ?weird?.<P>He explained its absence from the road on two things? a corroded aluminum water jacket on the head of the engine that had eroded do to electrolysis, and the fact that he feared driving in the car with passengers due to the dangerous glass in the car that would surely hurt someone if in an accident. He fortunately found another Pierce enthusiast who went through the trouble is having new water jackets remanufactured. The glass, well, he replaced the windshield with safety glass. The rest of the glass he ingeniously covered with Scotchguard safety shield. Applied much like window tint, it?s designed to prevent smash-and-grab robberies from stores with large windows. In Tom?s case it was a perfect solution, the car is now safe to drive, and he didn?t have to dismantle the car to have all the glass replaced.<P>Upon the completion of the walk around Tom proudly hopped in -- and after a few pumps of the gas primer, he started her up. AMAZING! The kids were in shock, watching all the valve shafts pumping away! The looks are their faces were priceless. <P>Tom was able to do in just a few seconds what I?d not been able to do in years? instill in my children a fascination with all thing mechanical. <P>Our drive home was memorable in that we discussed what we had seen and cars in general. <P>It was great to rekindle and old friendship, enjoy the sites and smells of a car fresh out of 40 years of storage being prepared for the road again, and to see a spark in my kids eyes for a hobby I have for most of my life loved. My own love for the hobby grew today thanks to Tom.<P>Peter<P>P.S. Yes, I?ll have photos soon.

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I love this story. I have a similiar problem with windows in my Model T Centerdoor Sedan. I have replaced the windsheilds and two of the 6 side windows. Where can this scotch gaurd stuff be bought. It sounds like a good solution to my problem as well.<P>Thanks

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cool.gif" border="0<P><BR>___________________________________________<P>Is there any information available on how this Scotchguard saftey film behaves on impact or under stress fracture? It sounds like a great idea, however saftey glass is tempered to cause it to shatter in small (but not too small) pieces. Are there any loose large shards or small penetrating slivers that result with this material?<P>I'm always a little hesitant to use something outside of it's design parameters.<p>[ 08-05-2002: Message edited by: Dave@Moon ]
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Hey guys, I've been around window film for most of my life as my dad has made a pretty good career of it on the manufacture side.<BR>There are a lot of films out there to choose from. Some perfectly clear that still block out the UV. There are many different grades available out there. Some of the stuff is real junk. Look for a professional grade, most are scratch resistant. 3M is one company, but not necessarily the best. There is also Madico. This film is one the Space Shuttle used to help with radiation and heat for re-entry into earth's atmoshere. The government has certifed some films for use on bomb shelters as well. <BR>The best part if done correctly no one will know you have it on and when the time comes you can remove it and no one will know you ever had it one. cool.gif" border="0

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Dave ~ Your youth is showing. grin.gif" border="0<P>Before the 1960's, virtually all safety glass was laminated glass. Only the curved rear windows beginning in about 1939 were tempered. Tempered came into vogue when side glasses began to be curved and the bottom channels for the lifting mechanism were eliminated, being replaced by mounting holes in the glass itself. Tempered glass will withstand the stress of parts bolted through it, but laminated won't. It is also easier and less expensive to bend. <P>I have always felt that laminated safety glass made a more desirable window, because when it breaks it does not leave an open hole. Also if the tempered glass does not come out leaving the hole, it is opaque and can be easily pushed out. But design and price have dictated the use of tempered glass in cars, except in windshields.<P>Laminated safety glass can be easily cut to pattern locally from stock sheets of the product, the edges finished and then installed in the vehicle. With tempered glass, you must first cut the glass to pattern, finish the edges and THEN send it out to be tempered, a costly and time consuming process. Also, although most people do not know it, only glass tempering factories with a DOT license can legally temper glass for automotive use, and most without the license will not touch it. Those with the license are generally too large to bother with small orders.<P>peterg ~ I hope this does not fall into the category of wandering too far from the original subject. In my years on this forum, I have found that wandering has often led us to interesting discussions that might never have been brought up as a new subject. <P>Of course that is just my opinion. I could be wrong. ~ hvs

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For those who may not be aware of the difference between tempered and laminated safety glass.<P>Tempered glass is normal float [formerly plate] glass that has been heat treated to give it strength and its characteristic of breaking into small, harmless? [so they say] pieces. Once glass has been tempered it CANNOT be cut or the edges finished or fabricated in any way.<P>Laminated glass is made of two pieces of float [formerly plate] glass bonded together with a layer of vinyl acetate, normally .030" thick in automotive applications. To cut laminated glass you cut both pieces of glass first and then cut the vinyl binder, usually with a razor blade.<BR>Then the edges can be finished in the usual manner. Laminated glass can be cut to size and pattern and finished by any good glass shop.<P>hvs

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1937hd45<BR>You don't need to take any of the glass out to put the film on. In fact it might be better to leave it in so the film does not become damaged upon re-instalation of the glass. as far as cleaning the window, yes it does need to be as clean as new, but that is the easy part. Think of window film as a giant decal. You don't want to have any bubbles or dirt between the film and the glass.

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When you install the film you spray the sticky side with a soap and water soultion to give you time to position the film on the window. It also keeps airborne dust from settling on the film. You also spray the cleaned window with the same soap/water soultion. After a few days if you have squeezed all the soap/water out from underneath the film you will be hard pressed to tell that the film is there.<BR> cool.gif" border="0

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Chris, good mind joggling tip.<P>I do commercial art for a hobby have used the "dish soap & water spray" on various projects.<P>My only add on to what you mention, is "do not spray it too heavily". It will reduce the squeegy time to get the water out.<P>I can cite the Trailer Decals that AACA sells. The accompanying instructions also say to spray the trailer area and decal the same way.<P>Regards, Peter J.<P> wink.gif" border="0

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