Recommended Posts

3 hours ago, 65VerdeGS said:

Those bumpers look awesome!

 

Dare we ask what it cost for the triple-plating job?  Was the rear more $ than the front?

 

Keep the updates coming - nice inspiration for the rest of us to get our rides in shape for spring!

 

 

Thank u…

 

I’m sure “shopping around” would have rendered a cheaper outcome. But I liked the examples this shop produced. Plus, I was stalling out on my forward momentum…so I pulled the trigger at the cost of…make sure your sitting down…don’t want u to fall & hit your head…you’ve been warned haha…$1100 😳 haha

 

Rear was $600…I only had the one main section of the front bumper done for $400…the two left & right pieces that sit to either side of rear license plate were $50 each. 

 

I am trying…my updates & comments like yours help me keep going. Again, it’s nice to know a few guys like the direction I’m heading.

Edited by RockinRiviDad (see edit history)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That's surprisingly cheap, I was expecting around $2500 and higher. One reason I bought my 64, was that the bumpers had been rechromed, and very well.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
58 minutes ago, jsgun said:

That's surprisingly cheap, I was expecting around $2500 and higher. One reason I bought my 64, was that the bumpers had been rechromed, and very well.

 

Cheap? Really? Wow! Ok…now I don’t feel so bad…cool. Thx. U made my day haha

 

They do have a couple of blemishes tho. Nothing I’m crying about. They turned out better than I expected. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, RockinRiviDad said:

 

Cheap? Really? Wow! Ok…now I don’t feel so bad…cool. Thx. U made my day haha

 

They do have a couple of blemishes tho. Nothing I’m crying about. They turned out better than I expected. 

 I've heard of guys spending 5K+ getting 50's era bumpers done. Chrome can get crazy expensive, especially in CA it seems. Some guys take their stuff to mexico boarder towns to get it plated because it's considerably cheaper.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Bumpers  are always pain because of the shipping expense . I had front and rear bumpers done in Houston for my 65 -  $2000 for all  BUT I didn't have to ship them either way . If you think chrome is expensive , try getting stainless polished and cleaned up ! They charge by the inch ! 

Tried to do some myself - big mistake . Looked worse than when I started . It's a real art that requires lots of patience and expertise if you want quality .

KReed

ROA 14549

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 2/16/2019 at 6:54 PM, kreed said:

shipping expense

BUT I didn't have to ship them either way

try getting stainless polished and cleaned up ! They charge by the inch ! 

Tried to do some myself - big mistake. Looked worse than when I started . It's a real art that requires lots of patience and expertise if you want quality .

 

I didn’t have to ship mine out either. But now that I cruised my car in the sunlight with the new bumpers & I can see blems in the chrome. Best discription I can give is that it looks “foggy”…they may have to redo them

 

sorry to hear about your stainless. I must've had beginners luck when I tried mine. I didn’t know what I was doing. But I borrowed this bitchen polisher & two different rouges (white & green). It turns out I didn’t need the white rouge. After all, my stainless came out way better than what is was when I started. 

 

FD33C0F0-26E5-4252-B198-619CF71A1024.thumb.jpeg.ec624cb50df252389dcc321a109fb2d8.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

On 2/14/2019 at 11:08 PM, RockinRiviDad said:

don’t want u to fall & hit your head…you’ve been warned haha…$1100 😳 haha

Hi Dave,

 

Thanks for sharing what you paid for chroming.  As others have said, you got a pretty good deal.  You say some of your new chrome looks a bit 'foggy' - well I've seen that before and wonder what it means.  You'll probably find the fogginess or blueish cast is most visible under artificial light.  I had a similar problem on another car I had chroming done on. 

 

Some things in the car hobby have become very expensive over the years.  Probably because fewer outfits are doing certain things (i.e. less competition = higher costs) and also increasingly stringent environmental regulation is biting into what folks used to get away with doing in the old days.

 

Chrome bumpers went obsolete at least 30 years ago , other than on trucks and commercial vehicles.  That's why there's less places now that do chroming.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, 65VerdeGS said:

 

Hi Dave,

 

Thanks for sharing what you paid for chroming.  As others have said, you got a pretty good deal.  You say some of your new chrome looks a bit 'foggy' - well I've seen that before and wonder what it means.  You'll probably find the fogginess or blueish cast is most visible under artificial light.  I had a similar problem on another car I had chroming done on. 

 

Hello,

Funny u mention “artificial light” cuz I first noticed the foggy area while in the garage before installing bumpers. I told myself “it’s gotta be my fluorescent lights”. Once installed I went for a cruise & foggy area can be seen only in direct sunlight. Any kind of shade or no direct sunlight & u would call me crazy, foggy area disappears. 

 

I stopped at bodyshop (middle man for chrome shop) yesterday to show off my car. I explained I never had anything chromed before & asked if the foggy area was a concern? He said yes. He tried to polish it out with no luck & said they need to be redone. I’m glad he said that. I was just gonna live with it with hopes that it wouldn’t get worse. 

 

Keep u guys posted 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 2/4/2019 at 1:17 AM, RockinRiviDad said:

 

Thank u…

no problem…if u are anywhere near me, I am more than willing to come help however I can (sorry, I can’t see your full profile from my phone)

 

heres a link to a better build haha. I found this link posted on the forum days ago by Schmiddy & I’m LOVING it haha. Makes me feel like erasing my work & starting over by following Schmiddy’s lead haha

 

http://riviera65.com/


I just followed your build Dave... damn, and you say mine is better??? I'm extremely impressed about your work, a lot looks way better than I did and if I could go back, I would do a few things like you did!
Of course I had some "déja-vus" 'cos there is no other way to do it like we both did and I like the photos and the way you do this whole resto in a very passionate way - great work mate and thank you so much for having mention me and my work, I do very appreciate and I'm very, very happy that I could give some inspiration and little hints.

It's all about passion, man, I will keep an eye on you and your amazing '65 Riv 🏆 - I'm already in love with it Dave! 😍
Cya 

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
25 minutes ago, psychostang said:

Let us know what kind of plug access you have after the install.


plug access is unchanged 

 

 

B8B32C11-3F48-4917-8ACC-0BE23C0FE7AB.jpeg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On ‎12‎/‎16‎/‎2013 at 1:04 PM, RockinRiviDad said:

Hello, this is my 65.

How did you create the 'tags' for this thread?

(65 rivi

build thread

can of worms

resto-mod)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, NC1968Riviera said:

How did you create the 'tags' for this thread?

(65 rivi

build thread

can of worms

resto-mod)


image.jpeg.4c35985458f69179217216076ba388fc.jpeg

sorry…can’t remember…that was 8 years ago?

  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)
6 hours ago, RockinRiviDad said:


plug access is unchanged 

 

 

B8B32C11-3F48-4917-8ACC-0BE23C0FE7AB.jpeg

 

Looks great!  You wasted no time.  DIY or shop?  Difficult?

 

#Sanderson #nailhead

Hash tagging to see if they become tags for #nc1968riviera.

Chris

 

Edited by first64riv
Spelling (see edit history)
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
10 hours ago, psychostang said:

Excellent.  Any other fitment issues?  How much did they cost?  Sanderson, right?


Thank u. Yes…Sanderson Headers
 

I was warned about installing headers with engine in the car. They are right…obviously, doable…but huge PITA. I purchased from Russ Martin & got some Install tips from his son Matt & a Facebook write-up. Not sure how they do it but it’s cheaper to buy these thru the Martin’s than from Sanderson. Ceramic coated version $495 + tax + s/h. Uncoated/raw is cheaper
 

Today was my first day driving her with the headers. 100+ mile cruise, including the Rose Parade Route (super cool) & I did notice better performance. I cruise with guys who like to drive fast & I like to keep up 😬. I am happy I switched. 
 

5B0DC616-6E92-41BD-B3E2-7A79123C0C8A.thumb.png.9f0a4788538d391e717d8f8ce24a8fe4.png

 

Only fitment issue I noticed was found on the passenger side. I didn’t notice if there was any play in header placement when I had the mounting bolts in finger tight. I may have been able to push the header up a bit before tightening down for a bit more clearance. Header hits passenger upper control arm (UCA). Hard to get good pic. There’s about a 1/4” gap between UCA & header. When I rev engine hard, engine torques & touches corner of UCA. Maybe switching to poly motor mounts OR filing down that UCA corner OR undoing MANY steps with hopes to reposition header up a bit more IF there is any play…which route will I take…stay tuned 🤣 
 

6D51A150-CA05-42C9-9E99-779BCE02B143.thumb.jpeg.56a2df47ebe60d651aabc11bf00a64ab.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just cut that small piece off the UCA & put a 90* grease fitting on the UCA so it can be greased.  Probably have to do the other rear one also.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

On the driver's side install some kind of limit strap that will keep the engine from torquing over to the passenger's side.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ONLY NEED FOUR LINKS OF CHAIN.

Bob, Turbinator take a pic of your left motor mount to show them how I installed yours.  Paint it black & you won't even see it.   Looks a heck of a lot better than the torque limiting cables wrapped around the upper left control arm.

When I bought my '64 Riv. new I was 18yo. For the day & time it was pretty fast & I raced it on a pretty much daily basis. I thought I may have a problem using slicks.  You know the famous "NailHead" torque on occasion it would pull the left front which I have pics & video of.  Ed, you still have that pic as your screen saver???     Post it for ALL to see.   BUT I learned very quickly how easy the L/mount would break way back when.

After quite a few mounts I finally figured out a way  to secure the mount.  Haven't broken one since.

 

Tom T.

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No longer my screen saver (that computer bit the dust) but I think this is the picture. Hard to see because of the shadows though.

64_riv_1c.jpg.7584911555d33de54416eca47575f680.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah Ed that pic was taken at Cecil County in Maryland.  I have a better one from Quaker in Ohio that you can barely make out the front left off the ground & the slicks wrinkle with 30pds. of air in them because of the amount of weight.  Also have a few from Attco Dragway in New Jersey & Lebanon Valley in upstate N.Y.  Dover  Dragway in Wingdale N.Y  Also have a video from English Town in New Jersey.  You can see the light turn green & the left tire starts to turn then stops then turns again. Definitely off the ground.  We're not taking a foot or six inches, BUT for over a 4000+ pd. car, even one inch is I think, is saying something for a car that's for the most part stock isn't two bad.

IF I knew how to post them I would.

 

Tom T.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, telriv said:

Yeah Ed that pic was taken at Cecil County in Maryland.  I have a better one from Quaker in Ohio that you can barely make out the front left off the ground & the slicks wrinkle with 30pds. of air in them because of the amount of weight.  Also have a few from Attco Dragway in New Jersey & Lebanon Valley in upstate N.Y.  Dover  Dragway in Wingdale N.Y  Also have a video from English Town in New Jersey.  You can see the light turn green & the left tire starts to turn then stops then turns again. Definitely off the ground.  We're not taking a foot or six inches, BUT for over a 4000+ pd. car, even one inch is I think, is saying something for a car that's for the most part stock isn't two bad.

IF I knew how to post them I would.

 

Tom T.

Tom,

 

  If you can manage to scan and email them to me I will post them for you

 

Tom M

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now