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Starter But No Generator


TonyAus

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You have to remove the rear housing from the generator (which holds the rear bearing).  Remove the brushes first by removing the 2 little screws holding the tab for each one.  These screws also hold the tabs that go to field windings.  You will need a short screw driver, a mirror and some patience to get to some of them.  Then pull back the brush pusher arm (the spring loaded arm) and carefully pull brush out.  Remove the rear bearing cover screws and bearing cover.  Squirt some penetrating oil around the bearing OD to help it slide out of the housing in next step.  Remove the screws holding the rear housing to the generator (my GA had 4).  Some will require a long screw driver to get to (without removing carb).  You may need to rap on the housing a bit with a plastic hammer to loosen it.  Carefully pry on alternating sides and it should come off and leave the bearing in place (good time to check condition of bearing).  Some careful maneuvering will get it by the carb.  Remove the brush spring base plates by removing the bolts holding them to rear housing. You can now disassemble the arms/springs by removing the bolt that goes down through each spring (you may want to do this one at a time in case you forget how they go back together, take photos, etc.).  Clean everything up good.  Assemble arms with new brush springs.  In can be a little tricky to get the spring to wrap around so you have proper spring force on the arm.  Study the one you haven't disassembled yet carefully (ask how I know this).  Re-install the brush spring base plates onto rear housing.  Re-install cover on generator, install new brushes (optional) and re-install the brush connection screws.  Make sure the field wire connection tabs are in place before tightening down these screws.  I was able to do this without removing the generator but a mirror was needed on some and it took time/patience (your mileage may vary).  It would be far easier to do if the generator is removed from the car.  Your choice.  Sorry I was too lazy to take photos but it would have been difficult with generator still in car.

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Thanks Mike. I got it all apart and notice the spring broke at the other end which hooks on to the bracket. Since I don't ha e a new spring, I heated up the end and bent a new hook. Since it was only a small piece, the tension is similar to the others. Nothing looked out of the ordinary (what little knowledge I have). Everything is back together and working. Not sure if it will charge because it not on the road but it cranks! Thinking the foot switch is going thou.

Thanks to all for their help in getting this novice up to speed. After this fiasco, I think I can figure out anything now.

That's not to say this thread is dead...

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  • 5 months later...

I tore my SG apart over the winter and replaced the bearings, found a short in armature, etc.  Sourced a good used armature, checked the field windings for shorts to ground, put it all back together and it seems to be working OK.  I still have some questions on charging though.  The dashboard amp gauge shows +4 amps at idle/slow speed without lights on.  It shows a slight discharge (~ 1 amp) with lights on.  I realize the accuracy of the 90 year old gauge is probably not great so I added a couple of temporary wires to the battery terminals to watch what the voltage was doing while driving (using a DVM).  Sitting at idle with no lights, the voltage creeps up to around 17 volts.  When I turn on the lights it immediately drops down to around 14.5 but then slowly drifts down after a few minutes to 13 v.  While driving at 20 - 25 mph, no lights, the voltage varies from 13.5 to 14 or so.  With lights on, it will drop to 13 withing a few minutes.  I know the charge rate is supposed to drop off with speed but I'm worried that I'm not getting sufficient charge with lights on.  I'd rather not find out the hard way.  Does anyone have any measurements I can compare with?

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  • 3 weeks later...

I finally had some time to fiddle with this and found that further adjustment of the 3rd brush was the ticket.  It will now keep a positive 1 - 2 amp at idle with lights on.  With light off the voltage climbs up to 16 - 17 volts but voltage does decrease with increased engine speed (which is how it should behave if I understand correctly).  I guess it's a little surprising how much the voltage varies under different operating conditions.  I'll be keeping a close eye on the battery to see if it's being overcharged.

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