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Rob J

Transmission Cooler Lines

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Just got my new lines from Inline Tube. Does it really matter which of the two lines from the trans goes to which port on the lower portion of the radiator? Doesn't really seem to me there is a specific inlet or outlet on the radiator.

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Rob,

I don't know anything about the transmission lines but it's great to see your moving forward with that great restore you are doing. Hat's off to you my friend.

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Rob,

Yes it does. Your shop manual should clarify routing in the tranny section. I believe the lower port on trans is the supply to the rad which goes in the top then out the bottom of rad to the upper port on the trans. Check your manual though to be sure.

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Jason, there is no top or bottom in regards to the trans cooler line connections on the radiator. Both line are in the same horizontal plane on the bottom of the radiator. Didn't see anything in the service manual, but will look again.

Thanks.

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The Riviera went from a down flo radiator in `65 to a cross flo radiator for `66. The full size models were already using a cross flo radiator by `65. The Riviera engineering was a step behind the other models in this regard. It doesnt matter which direction the fluid flows thru the cooler but the lines should only fall into place one way, they are not interchangeable.

Tom Mooney

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There is no "in" or "out" on a first gen Riv radiator cooler, but the lines should really only line up one way. One will be bent to go more toward the left side of the radiator than the other.

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That's what I figured. Got the lines installed. They were bent fairly accurately from In-line tube, but did need a bit of tweaking to get into proper position. I'm not too far away now from starting up the motor on the chassis and breaking it in.

Thanks for the positive comments Steele!

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On ‎12‎/‎2‎/‎2013 at 3:33 AM, Rob J said:

That's what I figured. Got the lines installed. They were bent fairly accurately from In-line tube, but did need a bit of tweaking to get into proper position. I'm not too far away now from starting up the motor on the chassis and breaking it in.

Thanks for the positive comments Steele!

 

 

 

Hello Rob,

found this thread through the search.

I'm just going to assemble new lines, but it seems they will not fit at all.

I know it's Long time ago when you did this. but did you take some Pictures ?

I guess you have installed the lines during frame off resto ?

Want to install new lines on my running car but ith seems there is no way to get new lines in with the Engine and transmission installed in the vehicle.

What do you think ?

 

Frank

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You can get the lines in w/ motor/trans installed, but it's difficult. You'll have to bend them in certain spots and then bend back once it's in position. Pulling the radiator would probably help some. The hard part is around the crank pulley.

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Radiator is out for re-coring.

There is still not plenty of room between engine block , K-Member and Engine Mounts.

It seems impossible to get the tubes through this bottle neck with the pre-bendings.

 

I'm thinking about cutting out a section of the steel piping and  replacing a portion with flexible Hydraulik rubber hose.

That makes it easier to assemble.

Does somebody know what the pressure of the ATF oil could be at a maximum flowing through the cooling lines ?

Would a low pressure hose be suffcient ? ATF Fluid is a challenge for must rubber hoses. Need to find a compatible material wiht 3/8" / 9.5mm ID.

 

Frank

 

 

 

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2 minutes ago, OldGerman said:

Radiator is out for re-coring.

There is still not plenty of room between engine block , K-Member and Engine Mounts.

It seems impossible to get the tubes through this bottle neck with the pre-bendings.

 

I'm thinking about cutting out a section of the steel piping and  replacing a portion with flexible Hydraulik rubber hose.

That makes it easier to assemble.

Does somebody know what the pressure of the ATF oil could be at a maximum flowing through the cooling lines ?

Would a low pressure hose be suffcient ? ATF Fluid is a challenge for must rubber hoses. Need to find a compatible material wiht 3/8" / 9.5mm ID.

 

Frank

 

 

 

  Try lifting the pass side of the engine and remove the pass side motor mount. Easy to do and will provide more room. You might even find your motor mount needs replacing as the pass side is the one that always suffers. The mounts are super cheap, as in "cheap insurance".

  Watch your fingers!

Tom Mooney

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                  Anybody know what became of Rob J's project? The photo bucket pictures end with just the chassis

completed, and he hasn't posted since 2016. Up until the photos end, the work done looked fantastic.

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I was able to install one line without raising the engine.  I forget which line.  If you can wait I'll update you this weekend.

 

Chris

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18 minutes ago, first64riv said:

I was able to install one line without raising the engine.  I forget which line.  If you can wait I'll update you this weekend.

 

Chris

Chris,

  Raising the engine is not a necessity...just makes things easier with very little effort and can pay dividends if the motor mount is shot,

Tom

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12 hours ago, 1965rivgs said:

Chris,

  Raising the engine is not a necessity...just makes things easier with very little effort and can pay dividends if the motor mount is shot,

Tom

 

i agree, two birds, one stone.

 

When I decide to inspect and change my oil pan gasket, I'll also change my motor mounts.  I'm sure mine are original and shot.

 

Chris

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