Heater controls

[Healeybob]

I have a 63 Riviera. I am wondering if pushing the temp lever forward activates the heat or back? Also does pushing the other controls forward activate them? Including the AC?

On a suspension note. What are the rubber bushings called on the rod that goes forward on the front suspension that is connected to the control arm? Where can I get them?

[RivNut]

Welcome to the site. You'll need to tell us more about your Riviera, and all of the tire kickers here love to look at pictures.

From left to right, your controls are AIR - controls the fan speed, TEMP - controls the heat of the air, DEFR - controls flow of air to the windshield, and REAR controls flow of heated air to the back seat through the vents at the rear sides of the console.

None of the actual switches are under the dash. There is a cable for each lever that runs to the actual mechanism. The fan switch is in a housing on the inner fender on the passenger's side. The temperature control valve is mounted on the firewall, and the diverters are in the actual ducts.

Other switches (5,6,7, & 9) are as follows, The ACC switch controls the courtesy lamp over the glove box, the ANT switch (if so equipped runs the antenna up and down), then the two on the far right control the fan and temp for the A/C.

The bushings your referring to are the brake reaction rod bushings.

Hope this helps some.

Edited November 28, 2013 by RivNut (see edit history)

[Guest Rob J]

Several vendors such as Classic Buicks, CARS, Kanter, and others will have the brake reaction rod bushings.

[RockinRiviDad]

The vendors that Rob J mentioned will get u the stock replacement rubber type bushings (beware Kanter sent me the wrong ones in their kit & never replaced them for me). If u want a poly type bushing for that application you can find them at other sources too. Some people (like myself) won't use polyurethane on moving components (like suspension) due to the annoying noises (i.e. squeaking) u might get later on down the road (guys on this forum taught me that). The brake reaction bushings are one of those "non moving" (for lack of a better term) type bushings that a poly bushing will work on. I went with poly on that component & purchased them from Russell Martin in northern Cali (530) 272-1564. U can prob find those parts in poly on evil-bay too. Sorry, I can't comment on ride quality cuz my car is still in the "build" stage. Just my 2 cents plus some change…

Regards,

David

Edited November 28, 2013 by RockinRiviDad (see edit history)

[Healeybob]

Thanks all. So pushing the levers forward does activate or increase the temperature, right? Mine doesn't seem to be working. I looked on the firewall and it seems to have a new control valve and hoses. I guess I will need to investigate further. Another question for the smart Riv guys out there. I was taking my wheel off on the right side and striped two studs. How do you get these out? Thanks for the brake reaction bushing. I bought the 63 last week from Bob Murphy from the Murphy Auto Museum in Oxnard Cal. It is in nice shape with a 401 and is unmolested. MY plan is to keep it unmolested at this time. I may put some different wheels and tires on it down the road.

[RivNut]

I'd say that the chances of the lever that works with the temp knob is broken. Probably 95% of the '63's have this problem. The temp control valve will corrode and freeze and the operator will think "if I just push harder, it will move." Wrong, the lever breaks. You'll need to have someone push on the lever while you look at the valve. Is the small arm on the top of the valve moving?

The ROA's website has tech articles on how to make new levers, and replace the "unobtanium" OEM temp valve with a later vacuum type. You can also search this site for similar threads.

Good luck. Keep us posted and thanks for the photos; nice looking car!

Ed

[Guest Rob J]

That's a nice clean looking car. How about some interior and engine shots.

Congrat's on the purchase.

[Jim Cannon]

I was taking my wheel off on the right side and striped two studs. How do you get these out?

I take my drums to my local brake shop and they will press old lugs out and new lugs in.

'63 Riv owners need to remember that the wheel lug nuts on your car are “left hand threads” on the drivers’ side wheels. That means you turn them backwards from normal nuts. Act like you will tighten them when you want to loosen them. If you turn them the normal way, you will break off the lug bolts.

Replacement left-hand lug nuts can be obtained at NAPA:

Item#: NOE 6412025

Attributes:

Height: 5/8"

Hex Size: 13/16"

Thread Size: 5/8"

Thread Type: Left Hand

When you have a minute, can you e-mail me an upclose picture of your data plate above the power brake booster? If I can read all the letters and numbers, I will translate it for you. Thanks.

Jim

PS email to 63Riv at comcast dot net

[Guest Rob J]

In case you haven't figured it out yet, Jim is THE MAN when it comes to the 63's. There isn't anything this gentleman doesn't know about them. You are in good hands.

[1965rivgs]

Bob,

If by the "right" side of your car you are referring to the passenger side then the passenger side should have a standard right hand thread. If you have left hand threads on the passenger side chances are someone has swapped a drivers side drum to the passenger side. This is NOT GOOD. I would suggest changing all studs to standard right hand studs. Left hand studs on the left side is overkill for cars, only found in the recent past on heavy duty trucks with "budd" style lug nuts. All the newer wheels are "hub piloted" and are right hand thread all around.

No need to use a machine shop to remove and install studs. Just hammer the old studs out and hammer the new studs in. Use a little lube on the shoulder of the new studs and they should go in easily. If you dont like the idea of hammering the studs in (which you should not as it is always done that way in the field with no ill effects) you can pull them in by using some lube on the shoulder and threads and using a lug nut turned backwards with some flat washer to prevent it from bottoming out on the studs. Good luck,

Tom Mooney

[Guest Rob J]

Was the left hand threads on the drivers side wheels 63 specific? All three of the 65's I've had did not have left hand threads.

[RivNut]

Yes, '63 specific!

Left hand lug bolts (at least the OEM ones) have a large L stamped in the end of them.

[Guest Rob J]

Thanks for the clarification Ed.

[Healeybob]

Thanks everybody. Lugs were on the right side. Used a hammer. Yes I caught on the reverse threads on the drivers side. Anybody know the recommended torque on these lugs. I used 75 lbs. feet.

[Guest Rob J]

75-85 ft lbs is sufficient.

[Healeybob]

Back to the heater control. I push the lever all the forward and the valve does move via the cable. However the hose is hot on the engine side and not so hot on the other side of the valve. I took a picture of the valve. It looks new. Does this look like the right valve? Anybody recognize it.

[RivNut]

New valve, not an OEM type though. The OEM style would be shaped like a diaphragm with both hose coupling coming from the top. The cable moves a lever on the top of the valve opening and closing it. Hooked to the same lever is a wire that runs to the heater box. Without ever having been inside one of the boxes, I believe the wire controls an air diverter. They work in harmony; the more heat you allow into the heater core, the more the door opens in the heater box.

Jim has a well written article in the Tech Tips section on the website. It explains how to replace the unobtanium OEM valve with a modern vacuum valve and how that in turns connects to the door.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Buick-GM-Heater-Control-Valve-1964-64-Riviera-21B64-/111077457891?nma=true&si=VLSFuFxNf5Ce1JfuXm%252BMIhi%252B%252Beo%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

This auction is over but it will give you an idea what the valve looks like. 63's and '64's are similar but not the same. The seller says 1964; definitely not a '65 (the '65 is a vacuum unit that sits close to the thermostat.)

Edited December 5, 2013 by RivNut (see edit history)

[Jim Cannon]

Back to the heater control. I push the lever all the forward and the valve does move via the cable. However the hose is hot on the engine side and not so hot on the other side of the valve. I took a picture of the valve. It looks new. Does this look like the right valve? Anybody recognize it. [ATTACH]225583[/ATTACH]

Ed is right, this is not an original valve. But I like the look of this valve and would like to get any part number off of it that you can find.