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64 Riviera, something let go in the engine


Bill Stoneberg

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After almost 100,000 mile and just when I had the car running good and shifting good, something let go in the engine while driving on the freeway.

A horrible clatter ensued, and my car looked like a mosquito fogger.

Dont know what it is yet, but the engine is coming out.

Question, can the engine come out without taking the grill assembly off ? Is there enough room to do that ?

Also, how hard is it to get to the upper transmission bolts without a lift ?

Thanks all….

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Sorry to hear, Bill. Yes, the engine can come out after the radiator/fan come off and the trans can be unbolted without a lift-of course, you have to get underneath for some of that and exhaust-mounts,ect. I figure you know the origin of the 'cloud' as to coolant or oil. If 100k original, probably has engine needs, but I'd also troubleshoot as much as possible before pulling-good luck-Dan Mpls. Mn.

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The heads are easy to pull. Do a compression check and take the head off the suspicious side.

You can drop the pan by lifting the engine 4 or 5 inches. Be sure to remove the fan shroud and you'll have to use a 1/4" drive socket set to remove the four pan bolts above the crossmember.

Those two steps will get you inside so you know what happened.

The short distance between the firewall and the crossmember makes pulling the engine and tranny together tight, but you can do it. Raise the car and lift from the front of the engine the assembly will be almost verticle when it comes out.

When my piston disintegrated the rod didn't jam. It just rattled around in the bore like a little ball pein hammer and the car kept running. I thought it was a bent push rod; it sounded so innocent.

Bernie

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I have every intention of troubleshooting first. Working on the suspect head now. Its not coolant, I wish it was that easy.

I am thinking I dropped a valve or something worse.

When I crank it for doing a compression check it makes a horrible noise.

More later on...

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OK Bill: After rebuilding several 425's I have come to the conclusion that a quality rebuild with quality parts is really the only way to go. That would be .30 over and a parts list from one of the Buick parts vendors.

The 425 was never that great to begin with and now it's equal with the 401's of 64, 65 and 66 vintage in the fact that Father Time has cast his giant shadow on the whole Magilla. The good news? If you wind up doing a quality rebuild you can really enjoy your 4747 for a long time. There ain't nothin' like a Nailhead that's hitting on all 8 with 150 pounds in every cylinder! Mitch

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I Dont know if it damaged the wall as the piston is all the way up at the moment and I couldn't find a socket to turn the engine. I am hoping its not too bad.

But considering it looks like grenade was dropped in the cylinder, I am not holding out hope.

The other 3 look real good though.

Here is a picture of what I found when I pulled the head.

post-30710-143142268236_thumb.jpg

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Make sure, whatever path your repair takes, that you thoroughly clean out the intake manifold for possible metal debris. When a piston is pumping metal around it can get into places which at first thought dont seem very likely. You dont want to "process" any of that piston thru your newly repaired engine.

Tom Mooney

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Matching numbers, is there such a thing on the Riviera's ? I have the original motor in it.

I have not gotten far enough into this to tell if the rod is still attached. I think so as I did a compression test and it registered on the guage.

Tom, thatnks for the advice on the intake, I will make sure I check that. That would suck (literally) to get metal into a rebuild engine.

I cant wait to pull the pan and see what the part of the intake valve looks like and how much more stuff is in the pan.

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  • 1 month later...

Got the motor out today and on the stand. Then pulled the pan. I got a baggie full of metal that looked like piston, rings and other assorted parts. Oil filter screen is full of metal shavings. Like someone said up above it looked a frog in a blender. This will be a fun one to pull apart and diagnose.

Engine was actually pretty easy to pull, a lot easier and lighter then the Straight 8's I am used to in my other cars.

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Check out the worst of 3 pistons This is the one where the valve dropped into. [ATTACH=CONFIG]227133[/ATTACH]

could a timing chain failure been the cause of the valve tearing up that piston? What would cause a valve to just let go? I have a numbers matching 65 rivi gs and i shudder at the thought of the block being ruined beyond repair.

arnulfo

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could a timing chain failure been the cause of the valve tearing up that piston? What would cause a valve to just let go?

Adnulfo, The valve stem broke in half right above the valve, dropping it into the combustion chamber. There it acted like a large ball bearing in a dishwasher full of glass. It broke at least 3 pistons and I dont trust any of the rest and it broke the bottom of some cylinders. I still had compression and I am hoping I dont have to have them sleeved. Will know more after I take it to the machine shop.

John, I will keep you in mind for the pistons as I dont know what I will need yet. I would perfer not to go oversized if I can avoid it.

Good news is that the crank looked good, no scoring or scratches on the rod bearing surfaces. Going to pull the mains tonoght and look at them. Oil pump screen was full of metal particles though. I pulled a baggie of metal out of the bottom of the engine.

Edited by Bill Stoneberg (see edit history)
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So the valve broke, beat a hole through the piston dropped into the bottom end where it bounced off the crank and hitting pistons and breaking chunks off the bottom of the bores. At least 4 of the bores will need to be sleeved and I may just go ahead and do all of them to be safe. This way I can stay with stock pistons.. more to come after visiting machine shop

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OK Bill: You would know what pistons to get after the machine shop makes it's rough cut but, if the block is chewed up I would look for another core. Matching numbers is meaningless mythology and it ain't gonna get ya from a to b. BTW, Falcon Global's master kit of which I'm considering is about $1050. including shipping. I have checked with some Buick specialists and they offer much more bang for much more buck.....if you need more bang. Mitch

Edited by lrlforfun (see edit history)
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So the valve broke, beat a hole through the piston dropped into the bottom end where it bounced off the crank and hitting pistons and breaking chunks off the bottom of the bores. At least 4 of the bores will need to be sleeved and I may just go ahead and do all of them to be safe. This way I can stay with stock pistons.. more to come after visiting machine shop

Thanks for the reply bill. I get it now. Hope all turns out well for you.

arnulfo

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Guest DRM500RUBYZR1
Believe me I am on the hunt for a block...

I also have a built 401 sitting in the garage, it was meant for another project but plans may change. We will see

Your 64 obviously knew about that " built 401", and knowing, simply could not help but damage itself in order to get that motor transplanted into itself.

i would be very careful around that car, particularly if you don't give it what it so obviously wants.

By the way,you don't happen to call her Christine do you?

Either way, I would not suggest lending it to any kids for prom night.

On a more serious note, sorry to hear of your valve with a death wish, and wish you the best.

Of course, it had to happen right before the holidays.

Save the money and scrap the other project and up the performance ante for the 64.

Then if you still need a motor for another project, use the one at the machine shop.

Best of luck, and have a great Holiday and a Happy New Year!

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Too bad about the damage, but stuff happens especially with aged engines. I've seen the most failures with pistons. I'm not a 'numbers' guy, so I'd use your other engine or another one to build-sleeving is an expensive proposition-good luck, Dan Mpls. Mn.

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Guest 4 bufords
Over the years I have heard of many problems doing this . Dont know if it is the concept or workmanship or both . There are blocks available - that would be my choice .

wondering what kind of block you have ted,4 bufords

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  • 4 months later...

Much work has been done in the last months. I pulled apart the spare 401 and I am glad I did. It was built as a Chevy engine. Timing was set to the wrong front cylinder, it was supposedly balanced but pistons wer 12 grams apart and the cam bearings were in wrong.

Now I have the block and lower end back and am going to start putting it together myself. It may take longer but this way if anything is messed up I only have myself to blame.

More coming later.

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Guest clamshells

Sure glad you steered away from sleeving the cylinders ;-) Matching #'s on a KW, LX or MZ yes but anything else doesn't matter, you made good a decision and a greater decision to check that pesky cam bearing. This story has all the making to produce a warm fuzzy as another Rivi lives on!

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It will live again, dont worry about that.

Spent the day today cleaning threads and grinding flash off of castings. There are a lot of bolt holes on the block.

Off to get the block hot tanked again and then get new cam bearings in.

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