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1936 Chrysler Airstream barn find advice needed


Guest Cryoguns

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Guest Cryoguns

Hello! I would like to briefly introduce myself and also ask for advice. My name is Anthony, and I currently reside in the Cleveland, TN area. I've been a long time Mopar fan (currently own a modern Dodge Challenger) and have always wanted to look at restoring a car but had never really found the right project for me. I've had an opportunity come up and I wanted to see if I may be able to solicit a few expert opinions.

Growing up, my uncle had a 1936 Chrysler Airstream parked in his garage. I hesitate to call it a barn "find" since it was never really lost, just never a car I figured I'd have the opportunity to own until the past couple of years. Anyway, it was an inheritance passed down to them on my aunt's side of the family. The history is believed to be that my aunt's grandfather purchased the car new in 1936. During the rubber rationing in WWII, the car became used less and was eventually parked (I think the front plate says '44 or '46 as the last tagged year). Her grandfather passed away in 1952 and ownership passed to my aunt's father. When he passed away in the 80s, it was then inherited by my aunt and uncle. No one has really had the time or money previously to get the car running again, and it is in the original unrestored condition...basically sitting for the last 60 years or so but it has been in a garage and out of the elements.

Anyway, my aunt and uncle have decided to part with the car and I have the opportunity to purchase it. I am very much interested and always loved the styling. There is a bit of distance since I am originally from Wisconsin which is where the car resides, and I am currently living in TN. I haven't seen the car in person since the mid 90s or so.

Here's a few things I know about the car:

  • 1936 Chrysler Airstream Six, Model C7 4-door (I believe this is the Touring Sedan, feel free to correct if I am wrong.)
  • Just under 30k original miles
  • Car is all original and complete to the best of my knowledge, minus the fender skirts which were accidentally sold about 20 years ago.
  • No known mechanical failure at the time it was parked, but I very much doubt it was stored properly with fluids drained. My biggest concern is that the motor may be seized due to sitting for so long.
  • While the interior appears to be in very good shape, it's also been housed in a barn for at least 60 years and I would be surprised if there wasn't rodent damage somewhere.
  • There is some surface rust in a couple spots due to birds perching in the garage. I don't think there is any rust through but I honestly don't know. Below are some recent pictures, I apologize for the small size but should have larger ones sent to me in a few days (hopefully).

1936%20Chrysler.jpegIMG_1021.jpegIMG_1040.jpeg

IMG_1037.jpegIMG_1028.jpeg

Given how complete the car is, I believe it would make a very good first restoration project and should be relatively easy to work on. I do realistically expect probably every system will have to be rebuilt in the car to get it in proper running order (engine & possibly trans rebuild, fuel system, brakes, suspension, probably electrical, etc). I'd like to cover all the basics just to get the car up and running again as a 'survivor', and maybe a proper full restoration 5 years down the road or so. I do also plan to cover basic safety (turn signals, seat belts, mirrors) before I start driving it. It's a car I'd like to continue keeping in the family and pass down to another family member one day.

As for questions, I did have a few that hopefully you all may be able to help me with.

  • What are common rust areas to look for? I imagine around the trunk, floor boards, and rocker panels...any others I should look for with this car?
  • Is there an easy way to tell if the car was equipped with the overdrive transmission?
  • Finally, does anyone have any idea on a ballpark fair median price? I believe my uncle and I both want to be fair if I am buying from him, but pricing for a C7 in this condition is hard to find. There are pros and cons to both sides...out of the C7s, the 4 door v6 sedan was definitely the most common produced, but the car also appears to be in good original shape overall and the complete-ness means I won't have as hard a time finding parts.

post-96749-1431422615_thumb.jpeg

Edited by Cryoguns (see edit history)
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Wow! Complete is worth a lot. I bought an Airstream C8 this spring, a nice driver not a show car. It has been fun and always draws attention wherever it goes. This looks like a great car to revive. That dash looks great from here, window garnish looks in good condition. These cars are relatively hard to find some parts for but that's part of their personality. I am not going to offer any pricing as I'm no expert but others here can help you if they so choose. Be glad to offer any help I can if you follow through on this. Good luck.

Dale

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By the photos posted and if no rust through, I would say off hand it would be worth about $5,000.00 give or take $500.00. Keep in mind that the brake system at least will have to be completely gone through. If running/stopping, maybe about $2,000.00 more. Just a wild guess. With better photos or close up, the estimates could change. I am sure others will have their own ideas of what it would be worth. Usually, the most rust can be found in the right rear corner in the trunk near the lid and edge. The water would settle there with all of the crowned streets back then. Second worst spot is usually under the driver's feet on the floor pan. That area usually got the most wet feet.

Edited by keiser31 (see edit history)
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There was a near twin to this for sale on this forum a while back that was running and driving in survivor type condition like yours. You can search for the thread. I believe he was at around 9,000 for quite some time with no interest. If the engine needs rebuild that can set you back 1500-2000 just for parts and as far as I know main bearings aren't available. although you can get the shells rebabbitted(not Cheap).

The motor is quite unique and only used in 1934-1936 Desoto as well as 1935-1936 Chrysler, Then they changed it for 1937. Parts for these cars are very specific.

You of course will need new tires about 1000.00 and brake parts will run you between 500-1000.00

I would think offering them 3500.00 would be pretty fair, especially if the motor isn't seized. Sitting so long you will probably have to atleast pull the head and do a valve job. If the chrome is badly pitted (hard to say from the photos) replating or replacing won't be cheap. It was 400.00 to rechrome my front bumper blade without guards. In 3 years the only NOS chrome I have seen on ebay is a couple of Horn covers, which I bought for around 300.00, an NOS door handle that isn't all that great that I paid 50.00 for and 2 used decent grille shell moldings that I can't rememeber the cost of.

I think Keiser covered all the rust areas that I would be concerned with other than to look underneath to make sure it doesn't have any agressive chassis rust due to storage.

I'm not sure where the overdrive control is located but if you look at the transmission underneath you will notice that an Overdrive transmission is a bit bigger. It looks like it has a second section attached to it, where as a regular transmission looks like just a typical single unit with a longer tail shaft. The overdrive sure would be nice. I also think the OD transmission uses parking brake cables and rear wheel parking brakes, where the standard transmission uses a transmission drum brake.

Hope this helps. I do have a set of skirts that you inquired about if you get the car.

Good luck

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Guest Cryoguns

Hi all!

Thanks for the great feedback so far! My brother-in-law was able to upload all the pictures to a website so we can share the original large images. There are a few things I did notice from looking at the additional pictures that I didn't know previously. I have the full gallery linked below for those who would like to peruse :cool:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/8vi15afocrkejtn/CEjsCkc52p#/

  • Much of the glass is delaminating, rather severely so. I imagine probably all of it needs to be replaced and didn't know about this before. However, I also would guess that most of the glass for this car is flat with no curves, and you could probably have it custom made if there is not a supplier for direct replacements. Any feedback on replacement glass? And while glass is the first part of the equation, I was more concerned that the seals would be harder to find...don't imagine the originals will survive the glass removal.
  • The chrome bumpers do have pitting, but appear to be straight with no rust through. I believe they are salvageable, but this will add expense as Auburn pointed out.
  • It does have the radio option, which is nice to see. Dashboard may have some surface rust at the top and unfortunately may need to be refinished.
  • Most severe rust seems to be near the driver's side door on the engine cowl. I'll have to ask for more pictures of this and to see if it's rusted through. I did also see some rust around the door openings, but no rust through on the left rear trunk opening.
  • Is turning the lower pulley by hand the only way to see if the engine is seized, or other suggestions?
  • 3 out of 4 tires still holding air! I certainly won't drive on them, but it does make the car easier to push/roll until it's running.
  • Plates for the car do say '46, but with a vertical 51 on one side...not sure if this indicates '51 was the last year it was registered? Not very important in the grand scheme of things, just something I would like to know.
  • Possible dent(s) lower right front fender, or might just be a suspicious dirt pattern. The rest of the car appears pretty straight.

Everything else aside, the car does have a good, valid title although it lists it as a 2-door instead of a 4-door. I'll ask my uncle for a few more closeup pictures of the problem areas (rust on cowl, possible dents on fender, right rear trunk corner, where running boards meet the cabin, etc) along with anything else you guys can recommend!

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Although it is a sedan I like it. I agree with the previous post of around 4-5k. You will never make any money but with some luck maybe you won't lose too much. Just do the mechanicals and leave the paint/chrome/interior alone.

I agree, it looks good enough to use as is, there are no rules that say you have to refurbish a car of this quality back to original showroom condition, a good cleanup and maintaining the existing patina is a very acceptable way to preserve the car.

As others have said, do the esentials - brakes, glass etc. get the engine running and take it from there; if you are really keen to restore, make it a work in progress as your budget allows whilst still getting use out of it as you go.

PS - yes you should be able to hand turn the engine over, did I see a crank handle with the trunk tools, if not they are easily found and this is a great way to prevent damage should there be an issue with a frozen engine.

PPS - yes looks like overdrive is fitted, I suspect that knob just below the instrument panel by the gearstick is the operating cable, also the the bracket / linkage and return spring at the rear of the engine manifold look to be part of the control mechanism.

Edited by hchris (see edit history)
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I don't think it has OD. The knob under the dash by the shifter is for the cowl vent. The linkage is for the throttle and the spring is just the accelerator return spring. I tired to find pictures in my factory literature of the OD controls but didn't see any. Just a picture of the OD transmission.

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This is a really nice original with all the hard to find bits in place. The interior looks especially good and could be used (carefully!) as is. The dash is nice enough and the garnish mouldings seem to be in good shape. I would leave them as is - I have seen too many attempts at wood graining that don't look so hot. A rare feature is the radio - these are not all that easy to find for this car. It would need to be seen by a good old-time radio guy - don't let some hack at it. I just had my '36 Dodge radio done by a pro - not cheap but not outrageous either.

You have a real opportunity to get a really nice car - hope you do. The cost of making it roadworthy will be well worth it in terms of fun and satisfaction. Just eat the elephant a bit at a time - drive her first and look at more upgrades as money and inclination dictate. It is beautiful and I'm mildly jealous:)

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Guest Cryoguns

Thank you again for the feedback, everyone! I have sent a wishlist of a few more pictures and all the advice on here has been very helpful so far.

A couple things I was still looking for if anyone has references offhand:

Are there sources available for reproduction glass seals?

Are there sources for an engine rebuild kit for the v6?

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Steele rubber I believe makes some of the rubber. You will have to check to be sure. It's not cheap. I have bought the correct stuff by the role before for the rear window on a 36 Plymouth coupe and it worked and looked very good when done. It's a cheaper route than the one piece moluded one. The engine is actually an L6. Last time I checked Egge Machine had a whole kit less main bearings for right around 1800-2000. I think that included pistons, rings, rod bearings, Gasket set, Valves, Timing chain and Gears, Oil Pump, etc.

Good luck

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I agree with the advice to change or restore as little as possible. Get it running, repair mechanical faults and clean up. You must be careful cleaning, waxing etc to do as little damage as possible.

Some have had great success cleaning rusted areas with CLR calcium, lime and rust remover. This takes off the rust and leaves the paint, some rusty areas come back almost as good as new. Then carefully polish and wax.

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  • 2 months later...

One of the most original cars I have ever seen. Keep it this way.

No overdrive. One quick way of telling this is by the speedo.

Easy to find the rust, put it up on a lift.

REstoration of this car would far exceed its value, but because its so complete

make it a driver. Spend the time to get it back on the road without disturbing to much.

It will be a real hit at every car show you go to.

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Hey Cryoguns,

The more I looked at your car, the more I think it may have had an after market over drive. Definitely

not factory. IF you look at the E-brake lever, there is some special non-factory thing bolted to it , with some

wires going into the dash. Find out what this is! Some overdrive units were engaged by electric back then. This may be an overdrive switch. The only other thing I can see that is not factor is the head lights. They have obviously

been converted to seal beams. This would lead me to suspect that the electrical system "may" have been

updated to 12V. Not likely seeing the rest of the vehicle in such original condition. Before you do

anything, be aware that the original cars electrical system is 6 volt positive ground. The sealed beam could be 6V or 12V. Remove the front seat bottom cushion and you will find the battery. See what the battery voltage it is, and go from there. If you would like more info. feel free to Email me directly at vw4x4@verizon.net

Eric

Edited by VW4X4 (see edit history)
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I suggest not turning the engine at all until you pull the head. On one of my cars years ago, a mouse crawled up the tailpipe, through an open valve and built a condo on top of the piston, increasing the compression to infinity. Tried to start and promptly broke the piston.

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  • 1 month later...
  • 4 years later...
  • 8 months later...

Carfox aka foxtail.    I own a 1936 Chrysler airstream, ( It's currently on Utube as 1936 Chrysler blue at old town). Since I've owned this car since 1996 I know a lot about it, and will  help with advice and part sources if I can.  Note; I need a steering box for mine, if anyone knows where I can locate one please let me know. Phone 407-390-9710 or 407-495-8169 email Foxtail36Pont@yahoo.com.    my name is Mark 

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