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1961 Mercury Meteor 800 restore


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Looking fantastic!  I bet you're correct on the airflow issue.  I would guess there was some recirculation of the exhaust / dirt between the bumper and body causing it to go all over the trunk.  

Edited by AURktman (see edit history)
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I can't see how it would work, but the flap may also create turbulence and help reduce the tendency to suck exhaust fumes into the back of the car. There is often a low pressure area behind a car. I have had fumes come in the back, esp. when the lid was not shut properly.

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Paul the car has been here since 1969.  Was built in the LA plant in 1961.  Not sure what year it migrated to Arizona.  The body has mainly surface rust here and there, but very solid metal still.  This was in the glove box when I bought the car along with several other documents.

 

 

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Edited by Laughing Coyote (see edit history)
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I made some more progress on the front fenders.  Last week I did the seam sealing on the front seams of the fenders where it had a bit of rust.  The factory sealer was totally gone so I re added it to keep the water out.  I sprayed the inner nose part of the fenders with rubberized undercoating to prevent rusting in there.  There was quite a bit in there too before they media blasted them.  I also found out that you can use one of those long red spray sticks that comes with a can of carb cleaner will fit the nozzle of the undercoating can and it actually allowed me to spray it in the hard to reach areas.  I wanted to get behind the rear panel of the fender to protect and seal it from water.  Worked pretty good.  Comes out like a water version of spray foam, but you can get into some tight areas with it.  If the carb cleaner nozzle fits a spray can you can use it the same way, but using paint.  That was one of those "I wonder if this will work" times.

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Well I haven't had much time on the Merc.  Business has been crazy busy mixed in with family and a new mill delivery.  Yes a new mill (to me anyway).  I purchased a 2002 Bridgeport mill that a company here in town was getting rid of.  They have 3 they need to sell.  There redoing the build to make way for 4 new 5 axis CNC machines.  Got a great deal on it.  They even threw in a complete collet set and a Kurt vise.  I sold my old one on CL in a day.  After it was all done and said I'm all in for $2000.  Not a bad deal on a mill that's in great shape.  It doesn't even have on peck or mill mark on the table.  I plan on getting back to the car this weekend.  Been having a lot of rain too which doesn't help much either.

 

 

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I was able to get more body work done on the Mercury today.  I hammered out the little crunched part of the lower right front fender yesterday and had to fill the big gash with some filler along with a few smaller dings that I couldn't get out due to the support on the back side.  Also was able to put a couple of coats of primer on the inside of the fender.  I also welded up the mirror holes on top of the fender where the mirrors mounted.  I'm not sure if I'm going to put them back in the same area or not.  I know that they where dealer installed so once I get the fenders on I will decide if I want them on the door or the fenders.  I want to make sure I have maximum visibility for driving.  Speaking of driving, I got to fire it up and drive it around the block since it sat for awhile.  I also had a valve cover gasket that was leaking so I had to handle that issue.  Seems to be good to go.

Gary F, As far as the mill usage.  You can make all kinds of stuff with it and to operate it you can google "How to operate a Bridgeport Mill":)

 

 

 

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I was able to shoot the first coat of primer on the outside of the fender.  Covered nice, even the area where I fixed the damaged corner.  After it sits for a day I will sand it down and see what imperfections need to be handled and then another coat.  The n on to the other fender.  Still have to finish sanding the underside of the trunk and spray that too.  A lot of sanding and priming going on.  Fun stuff. :(

 

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Thanks John.  I took some time this afternoon and sanded the primer on the bottom of the trunk.  I still have to do a light sand on some glaze putty I put on some pits I didn't like.  After that then I will apply two light coats of primer then do a final sand with some 600 grit and it will be ready for paint.  Then on to the passenger fender to fix a few things and get that in primer.  Lots of priming and sanding going on.  Probably for a while yet.  Not the funnest thing to do, but has to be done.  I will post pictures shortly.

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Martin - question regarding your fenders....how are you going to finish the inside of your fenders ? Years ago when I restored my first Impala, I coated them with POR-15,  made sure that the coating got behind the bracing.... I see now that POR-15 has a spray that is available. I'm debating on which route to go with my fenders....

 

Thanks

 

Steve

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Yes Steve, I will be painting the insides of the fenders the car color.  I used rubberized under coating inside the front nose area of the fender and also the under the back brace area.  I was able to put a small wand on the end of the can and get under it.  There is a front splash panel that also goes inside the front of the fender to help keep the water out.  The front seams have been sealed too so that will also aid in keeping the water out.    

 

I would make sure you can get in all the areas where water will get into on your fenders to keep them from rusting.  Especially behind braces where you can't easily get primer and paint into.  The spray would be a good option if it has a straw to get in there.  

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Today I finished up the little sanding I had to do and primed it again.  Looks like the first time I sanded and primed it.  Now I just have to do the final sand and it's ready for the "to be painted" pile. Once the color is back on it then that would be something to hoot about.

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I sprayed another coat of primer on each fender.  Still have to do the final sand out and see how they look.  I had to fabricate two clips that have a threaded bung on them since the original ones have broken apart.  They go inside a slot that is located at the inside front area of the rocker panel so the bottom fender bolt can mount. They may not look as good as the factory ones, but you wont see them once they go into the slot.  I didn't have time to purchase paint this week, but I will have to pick it up next week.  

 

 

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I have one front fender ready for paint and the other needs a little primer touch up and it will be ready also.  I didn't have time to get the automotive paint this week since I had a pretty busy schedule.  I did have to run to the Depot and get some stuff so I decided to take a paint sample of the little bit of car paint I had left to see if they can match it in an oil base paint. They were able to make an exact match. I couldn't believe how nice it came out. I'm going to use it for inside the fenders and inside the trunk (package shelf, rear fender wells, floor, and rear panel). That way I don't have to use a bunch of expensive automotive paint. I will be using the auto paint on the trunk, hood, outer fenders, doors, roof, jambs, and quarters. The oil base paint will be able to hold up and look just as good as the auto paint since I'm going to top coat it with an universal clear coat. It will have the gloss finish and is very durable. I use it all the time on the products I make. I actually got to spray the inside of one of the front fenders today. I will clear coat in a few days.

 

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Edited by Laughing Coyote (see edit history)
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Thanks John. I'm just thinking outside the box a little.  Oil base paints can be used on several types of surfaces.  I've used it on the under side of the car, frame and other suspension parts without the clear top coat.  Since the under side of the fender really won't be in plain sight and most of the inner fenders hide most of it you wont even notice. You would have to lay down and look under the car to see it, and you wouldn't know it was oil base paint. The clear coat that I'm using to top coat over the paint is an automotive grade clear. The trunk will have the spare, a floor mat, and side boards in there so there isn't much being shown in there either.  Just a way to keep costs down some and still make it look good. ;)  

 

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12 hours ago, Laughing Coyote said:

Thanks John. I'm just thinking outside the box a little.  Oil base paints can be used on several types of surfaces.  I've used it on the under side of the car, frame and other suspension parts without the clear top coat.  Since the under side of the fender really won't be in plain sight and most of the inner fenders hide most of it you wont even notice. You would have to lay down and look under the car to see it, and you wouldn't know it was oil base paint. The clear coat that I'm using to top coat over the paint is an automotive grade clear. The trunk will have the spare, a floor mat, and side boards in there so there isn't much being shown in there either.  Just a way to keep costs down some and still make it look good. ;)  

 

 

I know a fellow that sprayed his Model A pickup with Tremclad Green in his garage at home.

He thinned it and applied two coats which came out really nice.

My experience with brush painting that product on trailers and such being exposed to the sun, has proven over time to be subject to fading and chaulking so the coating with clear sounds like a protective answer to that.

I'm watching your progress with interest and appreciate your detailed work.

It is inspiring for me.

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Roger,  you could do a light sand on it before you add the clear coat, but it's not required. The clear bonds very well. 

 

Dei, you thin it out with Acetone and it flows really nice.  The clear coat will prevent the fading and will give it a protective coat. None of the areas will be exposed to the sun so they should be fine.

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I decided to apply the clear top coat on the inner fender that I sprayed with the oil base paint.  It's been hot and dry here so paint dries really fast.  The clear came out good.  It has a good gloss sheen to it.  If I let it cure over night and hit it again it would be even more glossy.  Doesn't need to be and should be just fine the way it is.  I just want to protect the oil base paint and give it more longevity.  It was kind of hard to get a good shot of it since it was in the shade already.  If I have time tomorrow I will coat the other fender with the oil base paint.  I will be getting the automotive paint this coming week since I have other products I have to purchase.

 

 

 

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Great work, as usual.  You may have the cleanest car I've ever seen, everything is so finely detailed.

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Today turned out to be a great day weather wise.  It got to 82 and no wind for once so I decided to take a little time from work and paint the inside of the trunk.  Came out looking good so far.  I have to let it cure out then clear it.  They are calling for rain for the next 5 days so I will have to see how that's going to go.  Hopefully I can sneak in the clear and be done with the trunk inside.

 

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Still waiting to put some clear on the trunk area. It's been raining for a while and now that the rain has finally stopped the winds are really bad.  So since I can't do much right now I decided to work on my trunk jack instruction sheet.  I had one in the car and carefully removed it.  It was in bad shape so I decided to hunt for one.  I was lucky enough to find a used one on the Bay for cheap and was in a lot better condition than mine, but still far from perfect.  They are extremely hard to find.  No one caries one for a 1961.  I scanned in the image and spent hours cleaning it up in on of my publishing programs.  I'm happy with the results.  One more thing done.

 

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