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UP Stop plastic nuts...where do I get them?


Kitskaboodle

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Driving home tonight I noticed that when I go over moderate/medium bumps I'm getting headlight flicker. My plastic up-stop nuts were replaced when I first bought the car about 6-7 years ago. My mechanic installed them at that time. Im the mechanic now :) At any rate, they're probably "done" so I want to replace them. Can I get them at the local auto store / "Help " section?

Finally, anyone have pics of the up stops in place and any advice on putting them in? Thanks, Kit

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Yes, I did say nuts but I actually haven't really looked at my headlights just yet. I just thought everybody called them that. While the headlights were in the up position this morning I tried to move them back and forth with my hands and there is a little bit of play.

Thanks everyone for the advice & help. :)

I will tackle this problem soon.

Regards, Kit

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My headlamp on RH side was flickering on bumps. So guess what I saw when I went to replace the lamps since it eventually went out. The cable and socket was routed behind the bulb not on the outside and over the unit.

http://www.reattaowner.com/roj/component/content/article/71-lighting-system/headlights-electrical/218-headlight-wire-routing-instructions

My wire on the RH side was almost cut through. Check your cable maybe the wire is routed wrong and damaged! Mine was, so I also needed a new socket since that was butchered too. I repair them both and re routed both LH and RH and now no issues.

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Several of the previous threads would seem to indicate that a certain vendor is the only one to supply both a round and a square hole plastic insert nut in their headlight motor repair kit.

Completely wrong as the third line in my Packing reads "Headlight Assembly Travel Stabilizer Nuts (one each round/square as required)". This, of course, refers to the body of the insert as the head configuration is not an issue.

When my headlight motor repair kits are installed and the assembly is full up or down, the existence or non-existence of the insert nut is not an issue as they have no play whatsoever. In a half open/half closed position, there will always be anywhere from 1/8" to 1/4" or so of play which is due principally to the inherent normal play in the spherical brass bushings in the link arm as well as other very minor issues. Excessive play of the assembly when open or shut is usually attributable to the wear of the DD hole in the crank arm or in the OE plastic torque rollers. A newer plastic, Delrin, is the plastic of choice for the torque rollers and I am not aware of any problems when this material is used.

Just as a further bit of info, it takes 53 turns of the manual control knob to open or close the headlights and this is testament to the level of torque generated by the motor and a low ratio of the gearing. In actual practice, only approximately one half of the teeth on the white nylon gear, which mesh with the helical gear on the armature shaft, are used. When re-assembling the headlight motor after a rebuild, some folks will concern themselves with orientation of the position of the crank arm; however, the crank arm is automatically re-positioned when the headlights are first turned on.

Kingsley Baker

www.reattaspecialtyparts.com

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