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1965 Riviera Clamshells: linear actuators - Dave Gee "Rhydes" still around? Actuator mounting ideas?


Guest musclecarfan65

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Guest musclecarfan65

post-52394-143142217797_thumb.jpghi,

dave gee showed on his FB page "1965 Buick Riviera" pictures of a project to move the '65 clamshells with 2 linear actuators.

unfortunately he is neither on FB anymore (?) nor reachable via email.

does anyone know if he is still around or how he is available for communication?

how did he fix the rear end of the linear actuators to a certain point of the riviera (fender, frame, custom build mount, etc.)?

best regards,

dirk.

post-52394-143142217791_thumb.jpg

post-52394-143142217794_thumb.jpg

Edited by musclecarfan65 (see edit history)
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Guest lowered65
[ATTACH=CONFIG]216866[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]216867[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]216868[/ATTACH]hi,

dave gee showed on his FB page "1965 Buick Riviera" pictures of a project to move the '65 clamshells with 2 linear actuators.

unfortunately he is neither on FB anymore (?) nor reachable via email.

does anyone know if he is still around or how he is available for communication?

how did he fix the rear end of the linear actuators to a certain point of the riviera (fender, frame, custom build mount, etc.)?

best regards,

dirk.

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Guest musclecarfan65

that's very kind, thanks in advance for your support - i'm really keen to modifiy my 65 clamshells also to linear actuators and any additional info is verrrrry good :-D.

best regards, dirk

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Guest Gee_Rydes

Hi Guys, Back from the dead after 2 different people gave me a heads up I was being summoned. Too many other car projects and a 12 hour a day job have temporarily sidelined the 65. Someday soon I will be back on it and finish it.

I tried a couple of ideas. One was what you see above. That was a separate actuator for each side that would be up under the upper skin of the fender and pulling back the top of the door. It would work but serviceability would be difficult.

Another idea I started working on was an actuator also made by Autoloc but used for the retractable hidden license frame. I had this really close to being worked out. The devices are much smaller and would be really slick.

Another idea would be to drop in a shorter 4 inch linear actuator and attach it to the same point on the clamshell that the short arm of the stock linkage normally goes. There is enough room down low behind the turn signal area to sneak in an actuator but keep it accessible for adjustment and serviceability.

The last idea would be similar to above but retain the pivot joint and the short arm referred to above but attach a short linear actuator to the pivot joint with the LA's running left to right behind the grille in the same plane as the stock long linkage arms.

For me, I wanted to run both doors separate of each other. That is why I was looking for a TWO actuator system.

Removing the guts from the stock headlamp motor so it freewheels and attaching only one actuator to either of the stock long linkage arms would be the easiest and cheapest method. I think there is a Youtube video on that idea.

This is the license frame deal

post-50598-14314222458_thumb.jpg

Dave

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Guest musclecarfan65

unfortunately i never had a working motor or struts for the clamshells so i was looking for alternatives instead of re-buying everything in the "bay":-)

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Guest musclecarfan65

thanks for your appreciated support ... THAT was verrrrry helpful information regarding "updating" the clamshell mechanism :-). unfortunately i never had any linkages to move the clamshells - so i had to park the rivi, get out of the car and open them by hand :-/

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Guest Gee_Rydes

HI Ed, Hope you are well.

Not a peep from the creep. Maybe he turned over a new leaf?

or maybe not?

Dave,

Glad to hear from you again. Any words from our old pal Marty?

Ed

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Guest Gee_Rydes

Dirk,

If you are trying to contact me, send me a PM with your email address.

I will check my spam box too

contacted you via mail :-)
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