common knowledge lost

[Guest erietim]

service manual says to fill grease cup on distributor with short fiber grease except they don't mention how to get it open pry it unscrew it I have no idea also on this 37 Plymouth how do you remove inner back door and window cranks. still hunting short fiber grease thanks all

[keiser31]

As far as the door handles and window cranks go, push the escutcheon in and push the pin out of the handle and the handle, escutcheon and spring will come off. Be aware that the spring behind it may pop the handle off, so be sure you have a hold on the handle.

[TexRiv_63]

Most grease cups unscrew, try gently. Once the cap is off clean out all the old grease. I would think "short fiber" grease would be like wheel bearing grease, check out Restoration Supply for a selection of lubricants for older cars.

[Guest erietim]

thank you for the information

[GLong]

Look closely, you should see a ring of knurling around the upper edge of the cup. It will then unscrew.. if it is a pry off type you should see a spring and hinge on the top of the cup..

For the vintage of your car, I'm pretty sure it will be a threaded cup.

Greg L

[Rusty_OToole]

Every time you do a grease job give the grease cup half a turn. This forces grease into the distributor. Do not put too much grease in there, if it gets on the points it can gum them up. Just turn it until it is snug. Do not force it down.

When the grease cup is all the way down it will not turn any farther. At this point you unscrew it and fill it with grease. Not too much, leave a little space so you can get it back on.

You also need to lube the ignition points rubbing block. If there is a felt wick on the points give it a drop or 2 of oil. If no block, get a tube of ignition points grease and put a dab about the size of a match head on the cam. Or just give it a little smear of grease.

There is another type of oil cap with a little flip up lid. Often seen on generators as well as distributors. This type needs a few drops of oil at oil change time. Motor oil is the usual lube, I keep an oil can of synthetic motor oil for them.

Edited September 30, 2013 by Rusty_OToole (see edit history)

[Guest erietim]

thank for the information little things like leave room in grease cup I would not have thought of .

Every time you do a grease job give the grease cup half a turn. This forces grease into the distributor. Do not put too much grease in there, if it gets on the points it can gum them up. Just turn it until it is snug. Do not force it down.

When the grease cup is all the way down it will not turn any farther. At this point you unscrew it and fill it with grease. Not too much, leave a little space so you can get it back on.

You also need to lube the ignition points rubbing block. If there is a felt wick on the points give it a drop or 2 of oil. If no block, get a tube of ignition points grease and put a dab about the size of a match head on the cam. Or just give it a little smear of grease.

There is another type of oil cap with a little flip up lid. Often seen on generators as well as distributors. This type needs a few drops of oil at oil change time. Motor oil is the usual lube, I keep an oil can of synthetic motor oil for them.

[Guest QGolden]

http://www.crcindustries.com/ei/product_detail.aspx?id=SL3131

Short Fiber is an old name for Drum Brake Bearing Grease, it is used in slow speed industrial applications where EP (extreme pressure) grease is not required. It is still readily available.

Rusty is spot on, tightening the cap puts the lube where you want it, but you should take it apartnand make sure the tube down below the cup is clear. They cake up after a few decades.

Edited October 3, 2013 by QGolden (see edit history)