1907 Model G and Oil Consumption

[DHDorholt]

Looking over my 1907 Model G today I was wondering where all the oil could be coming from that's all over the underneath of the car. I had it running and was looking around with a flashlight and noticed a drip from the rear of the engine, about one drip every 15 seconds or so. It's all but impossible to see the rear pocket looking in the front inspection cover because the oilier mounts over the rear cover and I am sure there is enough oil in it because I do have the oilier set a bit high on the drips.On the New London run we used 3 quarts of oil over the 120 miles, does this seem excessive? Is there a grove in the rear main or rear bearing to help keep the oil in the engine when its running. Any thoughts?

[Steve Braverman]

I remember the manual for my day's G said that "a blue haze should follow the car down the road." If not, you're not getting enough oil. Remember, it is a total loss lubrication system.

[odyssey]

Hi Dean -

Steve's correct, but it should be a "light" blue haze. When all is right, it is not a cloud.

With the oiler set pretty evenly between the 4 feed lines, the oil level in the rear pocket should be the same as the other pockets as there is enough turbulence during running to even things out. The only time this is not the case is when there is not enough oil overall. I have seen pockets run 'low' and uneven when there is simply not enough oil (one usually only sees this after a rod or pistons has already failed!).

So - if the feed rates are pretty much the same on each line, then how is the level on the front two pockets? Does the connecting rod just touch the oil surface when hand cranking? Any higher is unnecessary and can contribute to excess leakage, as well as excess smoking.

Having said that - I still think one drop every 15 seconds sounds like a big leak. Perhaps it will lessen dramatically if the oil level has been too high and is lowered, but I don't know. A rear main bearing should be tight enough to hold back oil even if the level is high.

On my 1910, I had a nasty leak out the rear, making a mess under the car and on the right runningboard & RR fender. It was clear that previous owners had attempted repairs and suffered a messy leak. I pulled the engine and installed a positive rear main seal, only to find the leak had not changed. Eventually I found the leak was out teh rear camshaft bearing - even though it only had a couple thousandths clearance. I was surprised when a positive lip seal solved the problem. It might be possible that the flywheel fan creates a bit of low pressure behind the cam, helping to pull oil out.

I would suggest you keep fussing with the oil level and then maybe this winter pull the flywheel and look at the back of the engine. I used dye to positively locate the leak at the cam.

tom

[DHDorholt]

Steve, Yes I know about the blue haze form the exhaust but it's more like blue smoke.

Tom, I looked in the front cover tonight after letting the motor run the other day for some time on level ground I feel that things should of equalized in the pockets. In the first three pockets the rod bolts dip into the oil half way up the wrench flats so that is most likely higher than necessary. I will fuss around with the oilier and back it off some but not too much. Going on a local tour this weekend so while the others are walking around in some apple orchard I should have a chance to pull the front cover off and have a look.

Any other barrel hood owners out there?

[ak]

Oil is cheap.

[DHDorholt]

Yes Art oil is cheap but; the excess oil is sure making a mess.

Also Franklin's should be leading the pack and not asked to take up the rear because of the smoke

[Franklin-Madman]

Hello Dean,

I drive my 1910 G about 1500 miles a year and have not touched the oiler for the past several years, but check the pockets whenever I get worried and of course at the 500-mile oil change. The rod bolt Heads just barely break the surface when turning over the engine on level ground (i.e in my garage). This turns out to be seven ounces per pocket or just 28 oz for the entire engine. The 1907 crankcase is smaller than the 1910 and I do not know how high your bolt heads are so your numbers may be different.

I set the oilers at a scant two drops per cycle when the oil is tank HOT (for 1910, a cycle is 80 revs, not sure about 1907). This gives me a consumption rate of about one quart every 90 miles of normal driving (mostly 3rd gear). The manual indicates 50 miles per quart is nominal.

Knowledgeable owners of similar Franklins have driven behind me on tours and say that things look about right.

I do not have oil control rings but do have the baffles between the crankcase and cylinders with the narrow slot on the exhaust side of the engine. As I recall, these baffles were a mid-year addition in 1907. You can feel them (or not) by running your hand up the rod. I also have the original pistons which cover the aux ports at TDC.

After coming down a long hill to a stop, upon pulling away there is a lot of smoke for a while. When running in Second gear, there is twice the smoke as in Top gear, when running in First gear there is four times the smoke as in Top gear but that is just physics and gear-ratios. Steep hills either up or down will temporarily increase the smoke.

The angle of the sun, cloudy days, and cross winds will all affect your perception of the Blue Haze. The most relaxing time is driving at night when there is no visible smoke at all.

Great Cars... Can't imagine driving anything else:rolleyes:.

[ak]

Pray tell, who is Art? Call Al Gore to follow with cat litter.

[ak]

This Madman, whomever he is, sure has the right idea. Throw away the rear view mirror or drive at night.

[Franklin-Madman]

A very wise former owner of a nice, dark blue 1910 G Runabout once reminded me that you can decrease the amount of smoke by backing off the oilers until you melt a rod bearing. Then you know just how clean your exhaust can be.