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Front drums?


72gs455

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The drums get grooved because when the shoes are not replaced when needed and the car is continued to be driven then the ribbit holding the shoes will grove the drum surface or if a bonded shoe the shoe frame will grind into the inner drum surface. If Cast Iron drums the drum has a life span with usually no lining inside unless they are GM aluminum drums with inner metal linings. Somewhere along the way someone just replaced the shoes without turning the drums. Turning the drums takes these grooves out. There is a specification of the maximum that a drum can be turned before it is no longer good . The thin red line used to be around 50 thousands over give or take. Perhaps one of the many motivating reasons the drums were not turned or replaced when the shoes were replaced was either through ignorance, apathy or lack of funds or all of the above.

When grooved the new shoes will not seat properly and overheat much more quickly the result being long sliding stops.

Edited by buick man (see edit history)
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  • 1 month later...

Don't know really. What flange are you referring to specifically? If it the normal flange on the seal that is how they seat. Did not know you could get them without the seat flange unless this is another one size and type fits all scenario which I have found seldom works out right.

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CARS show them with the flange, Bob's shows them without... It may be a general picture and not the actual part. Maybe a phone call is in order.

i will try to post pictures.

Bob's on the left, CARS on the right.

The ones I got from NAPA are like the ones on the left.

post-70955-143142259091_thumb.jpg

post-70955-143142259095_thumb.jpg

Edited by 72gs455
Clarification (see edit history)
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The flange is more of a "travel limiter" so you don't install it "too deep". Just tap the flangless one in until it's level with the back of the casting . . . should be the same depth as the flanged one, I suspect. Now, IF there is a counter-sunk area for the flange to fit into, that might be a different situation. As mentioned, "ID", "OD", and "the shape" (of the seal itself, the "lip" that is) are the most important things. Having one of newer composition might be better than an aged, NOS item, too.

Keep us posted on your progress, please.

Enjoy!

NTX5467

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This is all good advice posted here and very helpful. IMO just because it is of a newer design, that can mean many things in today's "race to the bottom line cost cutting world". If an NOS parts' predecessor lasted many years it stands to reason a current NOS part will do so as well.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Mike good point if you are actually buying old stock But I have purchased complete lipped rim seals designed just like original without the neoliberal cost cutting design elements within the last 5 years and they were not leather but fitted the same type rubber like material that one finds on the injection fuel ring gaskets for diesels called neoprene.

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