72gs455 Posted September 15, 2013 Share Posted September 15, 2013 I'm not sure... It's been so long since I have done anything with drum brakes, let alone drums from 1954.should the area the shoe rides in be smooth or rough?I have grooves, plenty of shoe left, just wondering...thanks for your help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted September 15, 2013 Share Posted September 15, 2013 It should be smooth but you have to consider how much steel is gonna be left if you have them resurfaced ( turned). To thin and they will overheat and the drums will warp, just like rotors on disc brake cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72gs455 Posted September 15, 2013 Author Share Posted September 15, 2013 Thanks!That's what I was afraid of... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted September 15, 2013 Share Posted September 15, 2013 Don't throw out your old drums, they can be relined.http://www.jgrelining.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick man Posted September 17, 2013 Share Posted September 17, 2013 (edited) The drums get grooved because when the shoes are not replaced when needed and the car is continued to be driven then the ribbit holding the shoes will grove the drum surface or if a bonded shoe the shoe frame will grind into the inner drum surface. If Cast Iron drums the drum has a life span with usually no lining inside unless they are GM aluminum drums with inner metal linings. Somewhere along the way someone just replaced the shoes without turning the drums. Turning the drums takes these grooves out. There is a specification of the maximum that a drum can be turned before it is no longer good . The thin red line used to be around 50 thousands over give or take. Perhaps one of the many motivating reasons the drums were not turned or replaced when the shoes were replaced was either through ignorance, apathy or lack of funds or all of the above. When grooved the new shoes will not seat properly and overheat much more quickly the result being long sliding stops. Edited September 17, 2013 by buick man (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72gs455 Posted October 31, 2013 Author Share Posted October 31, 2013 So I ordered the seals for the front drums from Napa, they do not have the flange. Is this a problem? They look like they will work, just want to be sure I'm not asking for trouble later... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick man Posted November 3, 2013 Share Posted November 3, 2013 Don't know really. What flange are you referring to specifically? If it the normal flange on the seal that is how they seat. Did not know you could get them without the seat flange unless this is another one size and type fits all scenario which I have found seldom works out right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72gs455 Posted November 3, 2013 Author Share Posted November 3, 2013 The inner seal that I took out had a lip that was flush to the drum. It is the inside seal, the other grease seal is the cap on the end of the spindle. I'll check Bob's and CARS to see what have... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72gs455 Posted November 3, 2013 Author Share Posted November 3, 2013 (edited) CARS show them with the flange, Bob's shows them without... It may be a general picture and not the actual part. Maybe a phone call is in order.i will try to post pictures.Bob's on the left, CARS on the right.The ones I got from NAPA are like the ones on the left. Edited November 3, 2013 by 72gs455 Clarification (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted November 4, 2013 Share Posted November 4, 2013 Don't worry about the flange. If both are the same ID and OD either will work. You worry too much . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted November 4, 2013 Share Posted November 4, 2013 Don't worry about the flange. If both are the same ID and OD either will work. You worry too much . LMAO!! Agree. Many do. Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72gs455 Posted November 4, 2013 Author Share Posted November 4, 2013 Don't worry about the flange. If both are the same ID and OD either will work. You worry too much .I agree too! But I dont want to do it twice... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick man Posted November 5, 2013 Share Posted November 5, 2013 Go get and find the ones with the flange that way you will know it is the same and won't have to cross your fingers in this one size fits all world. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick5563 Posted November 5, 2013 Share Posted November 5, 2013 I have used both. The one from Bob's works great. It is a modern replacement.I bet the CARS one comes looking like the other one anyway Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NTX5467 Posted November 8, 2013 Share Posted November 8, 2013 The flange is more of a "travel limiter" so you don't install it "too deep". Just tap the flangless one in until it's level with the back of the casting . . . should be the same depth as the flanged one, I suspect. Now, IF there is a counter-sunk area for the flange to fit into, that might be a different situation. As mentioned, "ID", "OD", and "the shape" (of the seal itself, the "lip" that is) are the most important things. Having one of newer composition might be better than an aged, NOS item, too.Keep us posted on your progress, please.Enjoy!NTX5467 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick man Posted November 8, 2013 Share Posted November 8, 2013 This is all good advice posted here and very helpful. IMO just because it is of a newer design, that can mean many things in today's "race to the bottom line cost cutting world". If an NOS parts' predecessor lasted many years it stands to reason a current NOS part will do so as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick5563 Posted November 8, 2013 Share Posted November 8, 2013 I agree to some extent with you Dave, but the NOS version is most likely leather. Old leather. The new seals are going to seal fine. I have them on two of my three 55's. Besides, you are "supposed" to change them whenever you remove the front drum for any reason. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick man Posted November 18, 2013 Share Posted November 18, 2013 Mike good point if you are actually buying old stock But I have purchased complete lipped rim seals designed just like original without the neoliberal cost cutting design elements within the last 5 years and they were not leather but fitted the same type rubber like material that one finds on the injection fuel ring gaskets for diesels called neoprene. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEarl Posted November 18, 2013 Share Posted November 18, 2013 Have you considered upgrading those front drums on your Super to the wider and thicker Roadmaster drums. Don't you have access to a RM parts car up there. You'll need the backing plates also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72gs455 Posted November 19, 2013 Author Share Posted November 19, 2013 I have not considered it, but I'll look into it. I don't know if he will let any RM parts go because he has a couple projects lined up... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now