trp3141592 Posted August 30, 2013 Share Posted August 30, 2013 Hi,Members have set me on a workable path to deal with a starter switch issue. THANK YOU !Now here's another question. Somewhere along the line one of us has gained weight (AHEM!), and it's a tight fit behind the wheel. The seat absolutely will not move, either forward or backward, so some maintenance (or persuasion) is needed on the adjuster mechanism, whatever and wherever it is. We don't even know how far back it is supposed to go. So the question is, how do we get the front seat out of the Monster (Sedan)? Popping the butt-cushion doesn't show anything promising in the way of securement bolts. Surely the seat was installed easily on the assembly line where minutes cost dollars. How is it put together? What's the trick to getting it out?--Tom<!-- google_ad_section_end --> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Schramm Posted August 30, 2013 Share Posted August 30, 2013 Everything that I have seen the seats are bolted to the floor. I would take a look from underneath the car and look for some bolts that are going down (looking for bolt ends) on the underside of the floor board and then look what they go to above in the passenger compartment. Just a thought. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AACA Library Posted August 30, 2013 Share Posted August 30, 2013 There is nothing at all fun about removing the front seat assembly. After you remove the cushion, you need to slide the seat forward to gain access to some hardware that holds the seat frame & seat adjustment rod to the floor -- there are holes in the wood where the cushion sits. If memory serves me correctly you can access the rear hardware without moving the seat. You slide the seat forward and reverse by lifting the little chrome handle on the driver's side of the seat frame. When I first moved my '37's seat after being dormant for 20 years it was VERY stiff. You can look under the seat frame and watch the seat adjustment arm move so make sure it is lifting everything as it should.Attached is a page from the 1937 Shop Manual describing the seat mechanism. -Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vila Posted August 30, 2013 Share Posted August 30, 2013 TomI had the same issue with my 1933 Chevrolet that I have owned for over 42 years. I am not sure why the distance between the steering wheel and seat begins to shrink the longer you own a car.It has the same type of mechanism as shown in Chris's diagram.I got a pry bar as shown in the attached link: Amazon.com: Stanley 55-515 12-inch Wonderbar Pry Bar: Home ImprovementI removed all floor covering around the seat and could barely see the adjusting teeth and lever with a flash light from the door side of the seat frame. I could not see anything with the seat cushion removed, at least on a 1933 Chevrolet.From the door side of the frame, I inserted the left end of the pry bar, under the seat frame just below where the seat adjusting mechanism is located and gently pried the seat adjusting lever out of the teeth. Be sure to use the flat surface of the pry bar, don't get the adjustment lever in the nail pulling groove of the pry bar or it may get stuck.Visit my website at: Bob's Vintage Cars Vila1933 Chevrolet1962 Triumph TR41984 BMW 633 CSi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trp3141592 Posted August 30, 2013 Author Share Posted August 30, 2013 Hi,Thank you all for input on this front seat issue. The diagram of how the thing is put together explains a lot. I'll send Junior under the car if we have to remove everything. I am hopeful that we can make the jammed adjusting stuff move without having to remove the entire bench. I'll try a Wonder Bar (we use those in my trade) and a heavy bump hammer to see if the thing can be made to move.What a great forum the Pre-War Buick is !!!--Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jenz38 Posted August 30, 2013 Share Posted August 30, 2013 Tom,On my 38 are all the Screws for thightenthe Bench are from Inside of the Car.Its sad but true,You must move the Bench to front for the rear Screws and back for the front ones ...Your Seat dont move on both Sides? or on one the Driverside a little bit when you delock the Handle? then is the Cable between left and right looks like the Problem,if not maybe dust and dirt in the Rails are blocked that all in the last decades . Maybe then helps press Air out from a long tubed Airpistol and WD 40 also with a long Tube on it.Good luck to your Son ;-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted August 30, 2013 Share Posted August 30, 2013 If you spread a towel across your stomach the steering wheel will rub on that instead of your shirt. Then you won't get dirty scuffs on your shirt. Old guy stomachs are not so solid they cause a big problem rubbing.OR, each time you get in the car and your stomach rubs, just walk instead. Pretty soon it won't rub no more.Bernie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trp3141592 Posted August 30, 2013 Author Share Posted August 30, 2013 Hi,LOL @ Bernie! Good one!@ Jenz--there's a cable? Ah-hah! Perhaps that's the problem. I'm not sure that we saw a cable. I'll check. Thank you.--Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Shaw Posted August 30, 2013 Share Posted August 30, 2013 Tom, My 1931-57 Buick has a steering column adjustment to move the steering wheel up enough to clear my belly... Since it was the smallest Buick that year, I need all the room I could get... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty Roth Posted August 31, 2013 Share Posted August 31, 2013 So...only "Closed Cars" have an adjustable seat track??Is that why the steering wheel on my '37 Roadmaster convertible sedan is so close to my belt buckle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glassesguy Posted August 31, 2013 Share Posted August 31, 2013 Marty: Yes. Front seat is attached to the door posts on my 37-40C as well. Not quite as much room there as is available on my 39-41 with an adjustable seat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Grant Magrath Posted August 31, 2013 Share Posted August 31, 2013 If the set up is similar to most other GM stuff, you may be able to get away with undoing just the front seat mechanism bolts, and slide the rear out of it's tracks. Makes things a bit easier. I would recommend degreasing, sandblasting, and repaintiong the mechanism, and reinstalling with some lithium grease!CheersGrant Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danhar1960 Posted August 31, 2013 Share Posted August 31, 2013 It sounds like the Fisher body adjustment mechanism is nothing like the Holden bodied seats. On my front seat there are two arms on both sides of the seat that that allow the seat move in an arc to go up and down as well as back and forth. It has a big spring that pulls the seat forward and up when the lever is pulled up. The mechanism allows the seat to raise as it moves forward and goes down as it goes back. I guess the shorter your legs are, the more you need the height to see over the steering wheel.I pulled the whole thing apart to replace all the rubber bushes in those arms as the rubber had long gone and the seat just clunked all over the place. Danny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jenz38 Posted September 1, 2013 Share Posted September 1, 2013 Tom,On my 38 are all the Screws for thightenthe Bench are from Inside of the Car.Its sad but true,You must move the Bench to front for the rear Screws and back for the front ones ...Your Seat dont move on both Sides? or on one the Driverside a little bit when you delock the Handle? then is the Cable between left and right looks like the Problem,if not maybe dust and dirt in the Rails are blocked that all in the last decades . Maybe then helps press Air out from a long tubed Airpistol and WD 40 also with a long Tube on it.Good luck to your Son ;-)Sorry Tom i told you wrong things,there wasnt a cable,i looked at my 38 and its only blocked on driverside with the knob about a lever to a rail with teeth,you can see it when you look from driverside under the bench. The conection to the right side is with a tube an symetrical sprokets on both sides. When you pull the knob then it work only on driverside,the symetrical adjusting is then about this tube with the thight sprockets on it,they run in rails. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCHinson Posted October 14, 2014 Share Posted October 14, 2014 I realize this discussion is a little over a year old, but it is related to my question. My newly purchased 1937 Century front seat moves back and forth about an inch or so more than it should, primarily on the passenger side. I pulled everything apart and discovered that the adjusting sprocket on the passenger side of the front seat has several broken/missing teeth. Does anyone know of a source of replacement sprockets for the seat adjustment mechanism? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trp3141592 Posted July 5, 2015 Author Share Posted July 5, 2015 (edited) Hi, VICTORY! After two years the problem has not gotten any better (I have not lost any weight), but collectively we understand the mechanism of this seat. My partner Mark and his son successfully moved it back to the next-to-furthest-back location by slobbering in some white grease, releasing the adjusting lever/latch, and adding some persuasion as shown below. I momentarily considered how to WELD the ^%^&%^ thing in place, but for now it's fine as long as no one tries to move it forward. If that should happen, at least we now know how to move it back. If we ever remove the seat I will take out the too-damn-strong coiled spring that prevents moving it back and replace it with a weaker one, or maybe none at all. Yes, that IS a hydraulic jack. Yes, that spring IS too strong. Yes, I'll have sharp words for anyone who tries to adjust it! --Tom Edited July 5, 2015 by trp3141592 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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