Making a Remote trunk release that works

[Digger914]

Went to the U-Pull yard last week, a couple hour drive for a trunk release to find the the trunk lid on the old car wasn't on the car when I got there and that meant a long drive for no remote release. Yes I did call and ask before making the drive. Decided not to leave empty handed and grabbed a remote trunk release off a mid 90's Cad Deville. Didn't take pictures as I was doing this, didn't know if it would work, it works and except for the electrical connector it fits beautifully.

Cut / grind / file solenoid mounting plate to fit with full travel and without binding then drill to mount with original actuator mounting screw, I added a pop rivet to insure it stays in alignment.

Be careful not to score the piston when cutting off the part that attaches to the GM latch and you will need to replace the heavy gauge latch spring, I went with same size coil thinner gauge steel, about half thickness. Works great with smaller solenoid and the key turns easier too.

[89TC-16V]

my 90 had a remote trunk release installed with the clifford alarm system from the dealer. had a fob button for the locks and the trunk. my spirit also has the same set up with a clifford alarm dealer installed

[Digger914]

My 90 came with the factory remote release that didn't work and this is just a modification of a very available part that can be used to replace a part that is no longer readily available, it also solved my twisting key problem. I got my TC from a dealer on the east coast and it arrived with the door and ignition lock picked so clean that the ignition worked with almost any key, the drivers door didn't need a key and the original key set was locked in the trunk. The trunk key was pretty well twisted and the key cap was broken off the trunk lock, I replaced the key cap, the lock itself was still good. The new keys I had cut have both twisted some while opening the trunk and I've been avoiding opening the trunk while looking to replace the latch assembly with a good used one. The softer latch spring was installed so that the smaller than factory original actuator could work the latch, this also made the key so much easier to use that I'm no longer looking to replace the latch.

When I did this I didn't know if it would work, or fit the trunk opening, so I didn't change the factory harness connect and added a butt splice to the wire I cut from the factory actuator. If I should need to work on this again I will replace the GM quick connect with a soldered connection at the actuator and the trunk liner will cover everything.

If I had known in advance that the Cad part could be made to fit and work I could have saved time and money. With gas at $3.50 a gallon I spent more on gas chasing after this part than I paid for the part. No complaint on the time, it was a beautiful day for a country drive with the top down and the TC is a fun car to drive.

Edited August 22, 2013 by Digger914 (see edit history)

[Hemi Dude]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]210129[/ATTACH] Went to the U-Pull yard last week, a couple hour drive for a trunk release to find the the trunk lid on the old car wasn't on the car when I got there and that meant a long drive for no remote release. Yes I did call and ask before making the drive. Decided not to leave empty handed and grabbed a remote trunk release off a mid 90's Cad DeVille. Didn't take pictures as I was doing this, didn't know if it would work, it works and except for the electrical connector it fits beautifully.

Cut / grind / file solenoid mounting plate to fit with full travel and without binding then drill to mount with original actuator mounting screw, I added a pop rivet to insure it stays in alignment.

Be careful not to score the piston when cutting off the part that attaches to the GM latch and you will need to replace the heavy gauge latch spring, I went with same size coil thinner gauge steel, about half thickness. Works great with smaller solenoid and the key turns easier too.

You are a clever fellow Digger. :cool:

[Digger914]

You are a clever fellow Digger. :cool:

Thanks for the complement Hemi Dude, when I saw the ABS flap I read your alpar posting and a I consider a complement from you on a mechanical conversion to be pretty high praise. I'm much better with appearance, under car and electrical than I am with drive-ability and that little testing tip you just gave on another posting might be the fix for my old Dodge trucks intermittent rough idle on start after several days of non use. Glad to see that you didn't give up on this site and leave us all to our own mechanical ignorance's.

Larry

[Hemi Dude]

Thanks for the complement Hemi Dude, when I saw the ABS flap I read your allpar posting and a I consider a complement from you on a mechanical conversion to be pretty high praise. I'm much better with appearance, under car and electrical than I am with drive-ability and that little testing tip you just gave on another posting might be the fix for my old Dodge trucks intermittent rough idle on start after several days of non use. Glad to see that you didn't give up on this site and leave us all to our own mechanical ignorance's.

Larry

No, between being on vacation and then coming back and starting this part time job with the jet engines, I might have missed a few weeks but I wouldn't quit over some trivial pi***ng contest with my arch rival in the club. He is entitled to his opinions and I will stand by mine. I have an overabundance of time in this business to know what I'm talking about. And, if I don't know it, I'll tell you so, not BS my way through it.