Jump to content

My father's first car, 1957 Roadmaster Convertible, makes it to my worshop finally!


Recommended Posts

On 6/5/2020 at 10:40 AM, High Desert said:

Well, shoot.. 

 

I was cleaning the power steering pump to disassemble and re-seal when I found the reservior manifold is destroyed. It looks like someone installed the lid bolt with way too much torque, breaking and cracking it in multiple places. 

 

Anyone have a decent replacement I could purchase? I don't think I can fix this! 

 

 

If you don't find one on here soon, PM me.  I am pretty sure I know where you can get one.

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Back to the nailhead while I await some generator and power steering parts. 

 

Since the fuel pump cam was riveted to the original camshaft drive grear, I had been pondering a secure way to attach it to the new gear. Luckily, one of the two rivet holes aligned with a 1/4 hole in the new camshaft drive gear. I "just" needed to drill the rivet hole to 1/4" on the fuel pump cam and weld a 1/4" stud. 

I emphasized the word "just" because the fuel pump cam is hardened steel. I was lucky that I had a full carbide 1/4" drill bit and a drill bit sharpener. I got through it with only three bit sharpenings.

 

20200607_105306.jpg

20200607_124332.jpg

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

Reading the manual, looking for the cam gear torque value, it devalues everything I just did. 

Paragraph 9 says to simply bolt the loose fuel pump eccentric to the end while aligning the keyway. I guess they only had them riveted on from the factory so the engine builder didn't forget the fuel pump eccentric. 

1591563155511468001080262582503.jpg

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Can someone tell me what this fuel filter connection should look like for the alternate glass-bowl filter setup? I'm sure it is super simple, I just need to get the parts or something similar.

Thanks to everyone for all the help to this point. This has been an excellent knowledge resource and I don't know how far I would have made it without this forum.

Buick Fuel Filter.jpg

20200609_094049.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

I pulled the air cleaner assembly from the dwindling pile of car parts. It was filled with rust and hard tarlike coating which I assume was oil at one time. Not sure if it was salvageable, it soaked in the solvent tank for a few days and it didn't make a dent in the tar. It then went to an outside tank and soaked in a mix of acetone and gasoline. That softened it up! 

For rust removal on this thin metal, I'm using electrolysis. Wish I took better "before" photos but am surprised with how well the center portion turned out yesterday (photo shows still-wet paint). The main housing is in the bath today and getting good results so far. 

 

20200609_190923.jpg

20200609_184359.jpg

Edited by High Desert (see edit history)
  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

A little soapy water and scrubbing with an SOS pad reveals mostly clean metal. I like how electrolysis also removes paint. 

The rust was most aggressive on the underside of the oil reservoir, and the sunlight helped me locate any pinholes. I found only one (at the tip of my finger) but I'll be checking for other thin spots to add sealant to before painting. 

20200610_123858.jpg

20200610_123933.jpg

  • Like 4
Link to post
Share on other sites

Engine and associated bracketry is painted! The distributor shown here is the original junker, used to just plug the hole. The manifold is just resting in place. I still need to do some cleanup work to the carb surface. 

20200611_142134.jpg

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

Couple of the typical issues with new parts.

First, the new water pump and the associated pulley have some slight interference that meant I needed to remove some cast iron in a specific spot. It is a tight fit with the original pump too though. 

 

20200612_091050.jpg

20200612_091027.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

The second issue is with the new motor mounts. They have a coarse thread welded nut that should be fine thread. 

I'm going to remove them and weld in the correct nuts. 

20200612_091214.jpg

20200612_091137.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, KongaMan said:

Wouldn't it be easier to change bolts?

I was thinking of buying some grade 8 coarse thread bolts for it. I don't know why Buick engineers wouldn't have used coarse thread there in the first place but I'm concerned they thought that this connection needed the additional torque retention associated with fine thread. 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
11 hours ago, lancemb said:

Did they originally have nuts welded on?

I think so. The old engine mount has green paint remnants which leads me to believe it is original, painted with the engine. It has a welded square nut though, not hex like the new mounts. 

 

20200613_103500.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, High Desert said:

I think so. The old engine mount has green paint remnants which leads me to believe it is original, painted with the engine. It has a welded square nut though, not hex like the new mounts. 

 

20200613_103500.jpg

Yep, confirmed the same on mine today.  Getting to nearly the same point on the coupe.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

I went to get belts for the engine today. The guy asked if I have the "early" AC or the "late" AC. 

I guessed wrong when I said "late". 

I do the same thing every time I plug in a usb on my computer. 

Back tomorrow for the right belts. 20200613_213542.thumb.jpg.fcec5aed2332198e193b1f43cb87745e.jpg

20200613_213530.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, High Desert said:

I went to get belts for the engine today. The guy asked if I have the "early" AC or the "late" AC. 

I guessed wrong when I said "late". 

I do the same thing every time I plug in a usb on my computer. 

Back tomorrow for the right belts. 20200613_213542.thumb.jpg.fcec5aed2332198e193b1f43cb87745e.jpg

20200613_213530.jpg

What method are you going to use to attach the engine to the hoist?  Looks like your bolt holes are all used up.  Lifting straps?  I've successfully used that method if so...

Link to post
Share on other sites
8 hours ago, lancemb said:

What method are you going to use to attach the engine to the hoist?  Looks like your bolt holes are all used up.  Lifting straps?  I've successfully used that method if so...

I had made this lift plate when the engine was removed. I'll remove the carburetor to use it again when the engine goes back. 

20200614_073643.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
47 minutes ago, High Desert said:

I had made this lift plate when the engine was removed. I'll remove the carburetor to use it again when the engine goes back. 

20200614_073643.jpg

Excellent!  I actually just ordered a pre-made one.  May have to make my own holes but we'll see.  I'm not going to build mine up quite as much as you did before installing, but a few of the exhaust manifold bolts are tough to get to once installed at the least.

Link to post
Share on other sites
On 6/12/2020 at 1:24 PM, High Desert said:

I was thinking of buying some grade 8 coarse thread bolts for it. I don't know why Buick engineers wouldn't have used coarse thread there in the first place but I'm concerned they thought that this connection needed the additional torque retention associated with fine thread. 

Can you use a longer bolt and spin a second nut onto the end of it?

Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, lancemb said:

Excellent!  I actually just ordered a pre-made one.  May have to make my own holes but we'll see.  I'm not going to build mine up quite as much as you did before installing, but a few of the exhaust manifold bolts are tough to get to once installed at the least.

You are doing it right. I'm mostly preforming the thorough build-up because of the significant chunk of time that that passed between when it was torn down and now. Making sure I have all the right hardware, gaskets, etc.. Parts can get misplaced despite best intentions. 

Some parts will be coming back off before the engine goes back in for break-in, like the fan. Some parts like the AC system will wait even longer. Bolting the AC unit to the beast may just break the engine stand! 

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)
44 minutes ago, KongaMan said:

Can you use a longer bolt and spin a second nut onto the end of it?

I think that would work too. I replaced the nuts yesterday already though.

The car's frame has two (one for each side) welded fine-thread nuts to receive the motor mounts. The motor mounts each have a fine thread nut, so the four identical mounting bolts have a two-in-two-out configuration.

I was imaging future me, under the car, trying to reinstall the motor and wondering why the fine or coarse thread bolts won't go in. 

Cutting off the old nuts and welding on the new ones is only a ten minute fix. I made sure to keep a bucket of cooling water nearby while welding to keep from melting the rubber. 

20200614_110918.jpg

20200614_111935.jpg

Edited by High Desert (see edit history)
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, lancemb said:

Excellent!  I actually just ordered a pre-made one.  May have to make my own holes but we'll see.  I'm not going to build mine up quite as much as you did before installing, but a few of the exhaust manifold bolts are tough to get to once installed at the least.

Hey Lance, do you have a photo of the correct exhaust studs with the length? Are they 3/8" or 7/16". I have some 3/8" studs that are loose but I can't tell if I have the wrong stud or if the manifold threads are just that bad. 

Link to post
Share on other sites
26 minutes ago, High Desert said:

I think that would work too. I replaced the nuts yesterday already though.

The car's frame has two (one for each side) welded fine-thread nuts to receive the motor mounts. The motor mounts each have a fine thread nut, so the four identical mounting bolts have a two-in-two-out configuration.

I was imaging future me, under the car, trying to reinstall the motor and wondering why the fine or coarse thread bolts won't go in. 

Cutting off the old nuts and welding on the new ones is only a ten minute fix. I made sure to keep a bucket of cooling water nearby while welding to keep from melting the rubber. 

That's the way to do it.  Modify the replacement part instead of modifying the car.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
37 minutes ago, High Desert said:

Hey Lance, do you have a photo of the correct exhaust studs with the length? Are they 3/8" or 7/16". I have some 3/8" studs that are loose but I can't tell if I have the wrong stud or if the manifold threads are just that bad. 

Yes, I will send you a pic and dimensions in next day or so.  I should have one NOS one left.  The threads are different on each end.

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
On 6/14/2020 at 12:36 PM, High Desert said:

Hey Lance, do you have a photo of the correct exhaust studs with the length? Are they 3/8" or 7/16". I have some 3/8" studs that are loose but I can't tell if I have the wrong stud or if the manifold threads are just that bad. 

Here is the correct stud.  It's probably supposed to be 1-5/8" total but my measurement includes the nub beyond the threads.

 

20200615_153710.thumb.jpg.1093ac788cd0c5b0bcf32969f51528e1.jpg

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, lancemb said:

Here is the correct stud.  It's probably supposed to be 1-5/8" total but my measurement includes the nub beyond the threads.

 

 

Thank you! 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

The exhaust company stopped responding to my emails about the resonators. Earlier in the thread I noted that both resonators arrived with the same bend in the tailpipe portion, when they should be mirror images of each-other. 

Not wanting to dedicate any more effort to obtaining a correct replacement, I cut the driver side tailpipe, reoriented, welded back in place, and coated the seam with high-temp metallic coating. 

 

Relax everyone, I didn't weld it while it was on my parts washer cabinet. 

 

20200616_085613.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

One of the exhaust stud holes in the expensive side of the engine is slightly buggered up because I had to fight removing a broken stud from it several years ago. It isn't awful but the threads are looser than I would prefer. 

Armed with Lance's correct stud info, I was able to find some replacements at Napa that are slightly longer in each direction. This allows me to thread them all the way through and secure on the backside of the flange with another nut that came with the kit. The downside is that each kit comes with three studs and associated hardware. I bought two kits of three and have these two left over to clutter the shop. 

 

20200617_131823.jpg

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

You probably don't have to remove the passenger fender to get the engine in/out but I sure recommend doing so. That increased access is invaluable, especially when you are doing it yourself. I'll have assistance during break-in though. 

20200617_200007.jpg

20200617_210223.jpg

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites
11 hours ago, buick man said:

" ... I bought two kits of three and have these two left over to clutter the shop. . . "  -  Now that is just plain nutty ..... 🙃

Just a suggestion, in light of your area, I bought this at Napa, bolts right up, works very well.  It is thermally activated.

image.thumb.jpeg.90b6eab299eba83329fda9e2de8ec66e.jpeg

Edited by Caballero2 (see edit history)
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Caballero2 said:

Just a suggestion, in light of your area, I bought this at Napa, bolts right up, works very well.  It is thermally activated.

image.thumb.jpeg.90b6eab299eba83329fda9e2de8ec66e.jpeg

Nice, is it for a 57 Buick or did you just find one that works?

Link to post
Share on other sites

If I remember it correctly, I sized it for a '63 LeSabre 401ci.  I suggest taking yours with you to the store.

Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, buick man said:

This fan clutch looks like a solid one.  Is not a clutched assembly superior in over cooling functions ?

 

 

 The fan clutch was/is used to conserve power when the fan is not needed, as in hwy driving. Added feature is less noise.

 

  Ben

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...