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Duesy


Guest VA 33

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If you're asking about AACA judging, it's my understanding that there's no point deduction for over-restoration, which is what you're describing. I'm not a judge, but that's what I've been told.

If you're asking from an Auburn-Cord-Duesenberg club perspective, you'd need to go to their club website and ask, or maybe there's an ACD judge on this forum.

For some reason reminds me of the fellow restoring a car, and decided he didn't like all the casting marks on the exhaust manifold. He took it off, took it to his workbench, and began grinding them off. The manifold promptly cracked, as the grinding "broke" the surface tension of the cast iron that had set in from years of heating and cooling.......

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For some reason reminds me of the fellow restoring a car, and decided he didn't like all the casting marks on the exhaust manifold. He took it off, took it to his workbench, and began grinding them off. The manifold promptly cracked, as the grinding "broke" the surface tension of the cast iron that had set in from years of heating and cooling.......

Ouch! :eek: Some things are best left alone. Dandy Dave!

Edited by Dandy Dave (see edit history)
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VA 33,

As with any vintage car restoration, the cast parts should be left alone. However, in the case of Duesenberg, some of the cars that were shown at period auto shows by the factory did have the engine block and head casting ground smooth and finished painted. This engine finishing procedure can be found on a few of all of the Duesenberg models (Models A, X, J , & SJ). Some of these show cars also had the cast aluminum firewall finished with engine turning (damascene finish), as well as some other cast aluminum engine parts. Kept in mind that this is the exception, rather than the rule. If you are restoring a Duesenberg, keep the block and head in the as found condition.

Grandpa

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There's a fine line between "over restoration" and "inauthentic restoration." In my opinion, that would fall under the category of authenticity. A super fine paint job on the car's body would be considered "over restoration," as would chrome plating that is much better than new. Polishing a rough casting is not authentic.

Just my two cents. AACA and ACD judging may see it differently.

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This is off the subject a bit, but I wanted to pass along a restoration tip on cast iron heads and blocks. If there is a welding repair on the head or engine block (for example, to repair a crack in the water jacket) the repaired area will end up with some grinder marks to smooth the welded area. The repaired area can be returned to the appearance of rough cast iron by applying a thin coat of Bondo body filler and pressing in a piece of course grade sand paper. With some care and luck the outcome should hide the repair and return the appearance of the part to that of unmolested cast iron when painted. I know of one Duesenberg that had a cast iron head repair hidden this way.

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