Eric W

Rescue Me - '51 41D

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It's been a while, but I've also been getting things done with the other cars. I've had the carb on & off this one a few times in the past few days. Thought the timing of the metering rods was off or something, so I ran it with the choke and vacumeter cover off. Seemed like the vacumeter piston was kind of sticky - not smooth action there on acceleration. (Tested while parked, not in motion.) So I pulled the carb off and cleaned the vacumeter piston and its bore. Put it back together. Next run, noticed that the main nozzle for the front/rear cylinders wasn't flowing! I think that would make a BIG difference. Today, pulled the carb off and apart again, specifically to focus on getting flow in that passage. Also found the "anti percolator passage" into the larger passage blocked. Checked that there was flow with shop air - put air through a little tube into one passage, covered another outlet with a finger, and felt for air at the outlet of interest. Compared this "check with air" with flow on the other half of the carb - seemed like I could feel something, so I put it back together (getting pretty quick at carb remove & install). Started, ran it up - flow on both sides! Should make a little more power with 8 cylinders firing instead of 4! Though impressive that I could get it around the block and up the driveway - with a running start - with only the middle 4 cylinders firing!

Backed it down the driveway, into the street. In drive, it died. Was too gentle with trying to bring the power up. Tried again by just putting in maybe half throttle, and it went through the rough spot and took off. Feels MUCH more like it would be OK to enter a road with real traffic. Took it around the block a few times, then back up the driveway was no problem - pulls like a "real" car with 8 of 8 cylinders...

Also had swapped out the plug wires a couple of weeks ago, but I don't think that made any difference. Other than I went for the "vintage look" set from Bob's.

Overall, a good day that gives me a real taste of where this car is headed...

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Wheels off to have the rims re-done. Local tire shop that I've done a lot of business with pulled the tires for no charge (they know I'll be back for the new tires)...

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Up on ramps/stands for wheels off.

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6 rims (pick the best 5), and yes, they all measured 6" with the tires off...

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The one to try to color match. That color looks so much lighter/brighter in a flash photo.

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Didn't get the rims anywhere this week, but I've been cleaning up hubcaps. Have about 13 or 14 of the '51's to choose from now. The best 4 will go to the 76R. These are what I think may be the 5th, 6th, and 7th best. Been working close-up on the polishing wheel, in the garage lighting. Had to take them outside to see if "they'll do". Other than cleaning off some extra polish residue, I'm declaring these done enough for the 41D.

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Got the rims powder coated. It was quick, and a good price. Color is a little brighter / more orange than I thought it would be from the sample chip, but only about 3/4" ring shows outside of the hubcap, and they should be good for another 60+ years...

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And after this clean-up, I could see there is a maker's mark on the outer diameter (where the air or inner tube sits). It includes the company, "made in the USA", 15" diameter, 6" width, and I'm guessing maybe a model or style number. But you can't see any of that with an old tire on it...

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Ha! Pic makes your hips look big Eric. ;) Those wheels are a whole lot of red, do you paint the backside black or were the originals all red?

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Yes, can't wait to get them on the car to get photos where the reflections are the sky, not me... Yes, they did a simple one color all around on the re-coating. The original paint was one color all around.

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Thanks - I got all 4 cleaned up & on. Out into the street for a few pictures, then the radiator let me know that's the next job (core let go)...

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They'll do that sometimes! Anyway the car looks great, those red rims really stand out against the patina of the rest of the car.

Keith

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I like the look . keep up the driving standard and fix the radiator , may also look at the thermostat and "if your year has that bypass my 41 248ci had " I believe it don't . The red for the rims is a interesting thing , Cars INC of new jersey offer my 1941 buick engine paint and it is also the red rim paint that Buick offered as a option . posting the listing of there catalog . http://www.oldbuickparts.com/catalog/pdf/cat360/36000.pdf

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My engine paint was orange'ish at first then it dried over a couple days then it is a deep red . This is a picture of the red on my motor .Seems to be the red .Good luck on the future work .

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Buickkuhn - yes the engine red you used looks more like the rims as they came off the car, especially the spare which had less exposure to the elements. I just picked an "in stock" red in part because the price was right, but also with hubcaps, there's only a small circle of red that shows. My car doesn't have the dog dish & trim ring, but rather the full hubcaps. I put a thermostat into the housing, which was empty when I got the car. I don't recall what temperature of t-stat I got, but it was listed as for this car. Being an in-stock off-the-shelf item, though, it the outer diameter was too large, so I trimmed it down to fit. It definitely doesn't circulate anything to the radiator until it pops open. I'll get the radiator done. And moving the car around a little, I can see the rear seal on the trans will need to be replaced.

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I knew the accelerator pump on the carb wasn't filling, so I worked on that for a while. First, had to find the inlet to the pump. Found that little hole. Then, had to clear the passage between there and the pump. Used B12 chemtool for cleaning and to observe flow between the float bowl and the pump chamber, and I was able to open the passage by threading a small wire down the check valve in the center of the pump chamber back towards the pump fuel inlet (with the check ball removed). I'm not sure it's filling fast enough, but now can start it without dripping some gas in from a squirt bottle, and acceleration is better.

But knowing that the radiator is leaky, I pulled the radiator and took it to a shop. Their rebuild guy is off this week, but the guys who are there can measure it & order a new core. This will be converted to new core type. They said there's one or two companies that will make the original-style cores, but the lead time is 1/2 year or more because they accumulate orders before making a run. Not worth it for this level of project, and I saw on another thread that the current-technology core cools better.

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On both of my cars, the '41 and the '56 (though the '56 had a tube type originally), and I had a modern high density core put in both, as my experience is that these cars seem need as much cooling as they can get, as I like to drive them considerable distances.

So, I think that's a good choice for your car.

Keith

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Got the new radiator installed a couple of weeks ago. About 2 weeks ago, took it across the street very early in the morning to a gas station to save filling with small gas cans. On the way back out, it ran strong for about a block, then the engine stopped. I figured it was from running the float bowl dry. Before it stopped rolling, I made a U-turn back towards my house, and got it stopped kind of on the side of the road. An off-duty policeman stopped behind me & put his flashers on. He was on the way somewhere else, but he called for an on-duty to stop by. I told him I just needed to wait for the electric pump to refill the float, which I did, and it restarted. I drove it the block back to the house, and he went on his way. Since I was then off the main road, I'm guessing he called back his dispatch to tell them nevermind, but I got the car back to the house and didn't worry about it.

I thought about this fuel delivery issue for a while and concluded the electric pump isn't a pull-through. When it's off, fuel doesn't deliver. So this past week I went around the block in the neighborhood here a couple of times with the electric pump on, and it still would run until the float bowl was empty. So I bought a fuel check valve, and put that in parallel with the pump today. Got similar results - would run for a block or so, then float bowl was empty, stop & wait for electric pump to refill it, restart and go a little farther. I had not changed the fuel filter (pancake type, nothing to see through), so I swapped that out for a see-through inline type. I could then see that the flow from the electric pump was really weak. I removed the check valve and put in a straight segment of tube to allow the engine's pump to draw without that additional restriction. I could see that it would pump some for a couple of seconds then also get really weak. As I nursed the engine up to higher speed, I could see the engine pump pick up some, but the engine would pretty quickly pull fuel out of the carb bowl quicker than the pump was putting it back in. So the little bit of pumping action right after the engine starts, I think is from the line having refilled past the restriction, then once the engine pump pushes that fuel, it's back to not having enough flow.

So - next step is to replace the main fuel line along the frame. I had already bought one from Inline Tube a while back, but never put it on. So I get to find out if it's possible to replace that tube with the body on the frame.

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As I read your last post, the thought entered my mind that maybe your fuel hoses, if they're original, could be collapsed on the inside, restricting your fuel flow. This has been known to happen on brake hoses so it may be possible with fuel hoses as well. Also, be sure you're using the correct gas tank cap. I believe that yours needs to be the vented type, but double check for yourself. It's just a thought, Good luck! Larry W.

Edited by Larry W (see edit history)

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Thanks - no original hose left in the fuel line at all. Though I did find the problem today, and it's of a similar nature. First, a few photos of the radiator re-core:

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post-92541-143142949577_thumb.jpg - new core is a little thinner, but they said it would work as well or better.

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The fuel-flow problem - I had bought the fuel line for this car from Inline Tube a while back. I was frustrated with them at the time, because the way they described it, I got the idea that it was the complete tube (including a hose) from the tank to the fuel pump. But it's actually ONLY the tube along the frame. I had already cut the original tube for the electric pump setup, so I figured the new tube would replace what I had already done - so I straightened the new tube (the tube is shipped with about a 12" diameter bend in the middle so it ships in a box about half as long as the tube) out to full length. Of course, my straightening came out as a little bit wavy. Turns out, this is about where I cut out for the electric pump, so that didn't really matter at all. I got the front section of tube out by also undoing the bottom two fasteners of the inner fender, so I could push that sheetmetal forwards a little bit. I got the new piece in by straightening the most forward bend to get it through the holes in the frame, then re-bent it a little to line up better with the hose between the engine side of the tube and the frame side. I probably should have done more to make the new tube match the old one - it seems the new one has a little more bend right near the forwards end. Not a big deal - tube isn't too hard to bend.

For the rear half - I looked at where that goes from outside the frame, over the top of the frame, above / behind the rear axle, and across the center of the car to the tank - and didn't even try to do this in one piece. I cut the existing tube in two just behind the rear axle. I then made the new tube match this one - the new tube's bend angles didn't exactly match what I pulled out of the car, so a little tweaking got the new tube's bends really close to the originals. I got that section mounted, then mounted up the last piece that crosses over the top of the frame. Started the car and saw MUCH more flow through the filter, more like what I expected to see. Drove the car around a little - now that fuel delivery is solved, need to go back and clean up the electric pump setup (I cut the new tube sections on the long side, just in case), and it needs work on the higher-speed function of the carb. The rear section of tube was quite clogged, closest to the tank. I should have known this - when I installed the new gas tank, I cut off a little of the frame-mounted tube because the new tank fuel level sender does not have the threaded fitting to match the original. I found that little section of tube today and looked at it - pretty well blocked. I guess I just didn't look at it before...

post-92541-14314294959_thumb.jpg - electric pump in the line.

post-92541-143142949593_thumb.jpg - electric pump with check valve in bypass.

post-92541-143142949595_thumb.jpg - what I've been trying to have the car draw fuel through for way too long now.

post-92541-143142949598_thumb.jpg - the evidence that should have told me to change the fuel line when I changed the fuel tank...

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Eric

You should not need a bypass and check valve with that Airtex pump, but leave it there so that when (not if) it fails a better replacement pump that will not let fuel draw through can be easily swapped. Also get rid of that inadequate filter (which is probably clogged) and replace with a clear plastic one that you can monitor. Is your car still 6v?

Willie

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Got a few miles driven this afternoon. It's taken a while, but it's to the point that I can take it to the weekly cruise night...

- 2 minute, 45 second video from today's drive...

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Got a few miles driven this afternoon. It's taken a while, but it's to the point that I can take it to the weekly cruise night...

- 2 minute, 45 second video from today's drive...

Nice!!!

What did you record with, Eric?

Your steering looks to be fairly easy and precise. That is good. Mine is a little stiff. Or I am just weak. The ride looks to be good. The fuzzy dice barely move. Sounds good.

Ben

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Thanks guys - Ben, the camera is a GoPro. You can see it at about 0:40 seconds in - look at the shadow on the back of the seat. I just stuck it inside the back window with the suction cup mount. Yes, the steering is lighter than I expected. It's running the stock size bias-ply tires (7.60 x 15). I had heard (probably on this forum) that those take less effort in steering than radials. Sure, it's a bit heavy at a complete stop, but get the slightest bit of forwards or backwards roll going, and it's pretty easy. Much lighter than the manual steering on the '55 46R that I had - that one had something like 225/75 R15 radials, though.

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