Dwight Romberger Posted July 24, 2013 Share Posted July 24, 2013 Yup! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelod Posted July 24, 2013 Share Posted July 24, 2013 Amazing! I might get one of those myself. What about your hand crank? Any provision for that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted July 24, 2013 Share Posted July 24, 2013 Beautifully!! Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwight Romberger Posted July 24, 2013 Author Share Posted July 24, 2013 (edited) Michael,There is no provision for the hand crank. There are shorter ones. (same width & price)If it works, I will have to have a longer fill neck welded on.I will let you know what modifications I have to make.Dwight Edited July 24, 2013 by Dwight Romberger (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unimogjohn Posted July 25, 2013 Share Posted July 25, 2013 Dwight, good job. Post a pic of the other side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwight Romberger Posted July 25, 2013 Author Share Posted July 25, 2013 (edited) Here's the front John. I should finish it today. I will post pics of the proceedure. It looks like you can see bare aluminum on the left and bottom but you can't it is just a reflection from the flash. Edited July 25, 2013 by Dwight Romberger (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unimogjohn Posted July 26, 2013 Share Posted July 26, 2013 Boy, that really looks nice. I am impressed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwight Romberger Posted July 26, 2013 Author Share Posted July 26, 2013 Thanks for the encouragement John. If I can finish the new brass tubing to the oil filter today, I can fire it up. I really want to find out if it has solved my overheating problem.Dwight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted July 26, 2013 Share Posted July 26, 2013 Glad to hear of your progress. We have been at the Nationals and Pre-War after tour. And are in awe of your resoursefulness. After 4 bouts of overheating on the way out. We would like to see how these techniques will help this problem. Larry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1937-44 Posted July 26, 2013 Share Posted July 26, 2013 Larry, Glad to hear you made it home. I was glad to see your 1937 at Nationals, sorry I didn't get a chance to meet you. Carl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwight Romberger Posted July 31, 2013 Author Share Posted July 31, 2013 (edited) There is joy in Mudville!It looks like the new Griffen radiator has solved my overheating problem.Normal driving seems to be around 160 degrees. Downhill it will dip down to 140. Sitting at idle for a long period of time---(15 minutes) the temperature creeps up to 190 but no boiling over. This may be normal?I am going to move the fan closer to the radiator tommorrow and see if that makes a difference.Water just pours through the radiator now. If you look down the radiator fill opening it looks like a rapids. Before, it was hard to tell if the water was moving at all.The installation was easy (even for me). I only had to cut two small tabs off the sheet metal that secured the old radiator and a slender strip off of the louver device. And, I realized later it didn't really have to cut the piece off the louver device.I will post step-by-step photos and commentary.I drove it 5 or 6 miles today. First time it has been away from home in 4 years.Engine is running rough, rolling as if it is going to stop at all speeds. It was smooth before so I think I may have loosened some dirt while replacing the fuel tank and fuel lines and it is in the Marvel.Right now I am just glad it is not pegging the temperature gauge anymore.Dwight Edited July 31, 2013 by Dwight Romberger (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leif Holmberg Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 Dwight,I just wonder what a Griffen radiator is? Leif in Sweden. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwight Romberger Posted July 31, 2013 Author Share Posted July 31, 2013 (edited) Hi Leif,Griffen is an American company that has been making aluminum radiators for 30 years. They make direct-fit, universal, high-performance and custom made-to-order radiators.Home page: Griffin Performance Aluminum RadiatorsRadiator catalog: http://www.griffinrad.com/catalogs.cfmThe Universal radiators were of the most interest to me: http://www.griffinrad.com/buy_online/catalog/index.php/cPath/34If I were to do it again, I would have them modify the inlet and outlet locations slightly on the radiator I purchase to match the original radiator. They offer that option.Dwight Edited July 31, 2013 by Dwight Romberger (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 Dwight, so glad the radiator fixed the problem. Almost always will. Now you can join the ranks of those of us that jump in and say "it's the radiator" when some one has an overheating problem. Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest morerevsm3 Posted August 2, 2013 Share Posted August 2, 2013 There is joy in Mudville!It looks like the new Griffen radiator has solved my overheating problem.Normal driving seems to be around 160 degrees. Downhill it will dip down to 140. Sitting at idle for a long period of time---(15 minutes) the temperature creeps up to 190 but no boiling over. This may be normal?I am going to move the fan closer to the radiator tommorrow and see if that makes a difference.Water just pours through the radiator now. If you look down the radiator fill opening it looks like a rapids. Before, it was hard to tell if the water was moving at all.The installation was easy (even for me). I only had to cut two small tabs off the sheet metal that secured the old radiator and a slender strip off of the louver device. And, I realized later it didn't really have to cut the piece off the louver device.I will post step-by-step photos and commentary.I drove it 5 or 6 miles today. First time it has been away from home in 4 years.Engine is running rough, rolling as if it is going to stop at all speeds. It was smooth before so I think I may have loosened some dirt while replacing the fuel tank and fuel lines and it is in the Marvel.Right now I am just glad it is not pegging the temperature gauge anymore.DwightI had overheating problems with my 27-25 since inheriting it from my father, took the original honeycomb core to an old time radiator guy, he removed the tanks, cleaned it all out, repaired some leaks, and made a whole new bottom outlet as the old one had corroded away, it now runs almost exact temps you describe above, cost over $600, but worth it to have peice of mind that the old honeycomb core is good for another 85 years Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwight Romberger Posted August 2, 2013 Author Share Posted August 2, 2013 (edited) Alan,That is great . I am glad it worked for you.I agree. Original still is my first choice even when it comes to radiators. The reason I went in this direction was that estimates to do the work you described were well north of $1000. I think it would ultimately still be worth the cost, but I was not positive the radiator was the source of my overheating problem. I didn't want to take the chance of spending that much money on a radiator that wasn't really faulty and still overheat.My plan was to not do anything that cannot be easily reversed. I kept the old radiator and did not alter the sheet metal that holds it inside the radiator shell ( I trimmed two small ears off a spare). If I choose at some point, I could have my radiator repaired. I could unbolt the Griffen and bolt in the old one in less than an hour.It sounds like I am trying to defend my choice, but that is not my intent. I just wanted to give some insight into my thought process, no matter how quirky it my seem sometimes!Dwight Edited August 2, 2013 by Dwight Romberger (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest morerevsm3 Posted August 2, 2013 Share Posted August 2, 2013 my post may have come across the wrong way, I was just trying to show that the results are both similar, and unless you can find someone experienced with the old stuff, yours is a great option, the guy that repaired mine only leak tests vintage radiators to 4 psi, so it doesn't make more leaks, as they are not a pressurized system, most radiator places would just run 15psi in then an destroy the core Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwight Romberger Posted August 2, 2013 Author Share Posted August 2, 2013 Alan,No, I didn't take it the wrong way. I understand what you were saying. I was concerned that my response sounded defensive, and then you would think I thought you wre criticising ny choice. I wanted to prevent that. I guess I didn't.It is so hard to convene attitude with an email. I am always concerned that something I write will be taken the wrong way.I really like your Buick touring car by the way!Dwight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Stephenmilner Posted August 14, 2015 Share Posted August 14, 2015 Thanks GuysWhat happened is I took my radiator to the shop for a reverse flush while I was doing the motor up.He soaked it with cleaner in for 4 days then flushed it out and 2 rather large leaks appeared which he sealed up and pressure tested and ok. Now after putting back on the car ,a small leak from a repair . Can I put a radiator sealer through to plug the small leak or is that a no no. Hence I would rather swap radiators to be sure as I think it is the original radiator. Apart from the leak it runs sweet and cool.CheersSteve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unimogjohn Posted August 19, 2015 Share Posted August 19, 2015 Steve, I have stopped minor radiator leaks with JB Weld epoxy. Make sure the area is clean and shiney. Just put a skim coat on the leak and let it cure for 24 hours or so. Paint it black and you will hardly notice it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Schramm Posted August 19, 2015 Share Posted August 19, 2015 Steve, I have stopped minor radiator leaks with JB Weld epoxy. Make sure the area is clean and shiney. Just put a skim coat on the leak and let it cure for 24 hours or so. Paint it black and you will hardly notice it. I have done the same thing except I sand blasted the area for good adhesion. Painted it and it is almost impossible to find. That said, I still plan on getting the radiator re-cored as I believe the first couple of fixes is just the beginning of the domino effect. Just got to get enough money together to get the re-core. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick5563 Posted August 21, 2015 Share Posted August 21, 2015 Sitting at idle for a long period of time---(15 minutes) the temperature creeps up to 190 but no boiling over. This may be normal?DwightI just read this and chuckled. Since the boiling point of water is 212 degrees, 190 won't boil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwight Romberger Posted August 21, 2015 Author Share Posted August 21, 2015 Mike, I chuckled because you thought I didn't know water boils at 212 degrees. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Schramm Posted August 22, 2015 Share Posted August 22, 2015 (edited) Unless you are at about 13,000 ft above sea level. http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/boiling-points-water-altitude-d_1344.html Edited August 22, 2015 by Larry Schramm (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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