Father Son Project -- Advise welcome

[Guest Jomaholz]

Recently, We started working on a 1955 Super 2Dr HT, (Three on the Tree) - I've heard that's unusual? The engine turns over when we poured a small amount of gas in the carburetor, but once that is burned off, it stops. Doesn't seem to be getting fuel from the gas tank. I put about 4.5 gallons of gas in the tank and primed it (pumped the accelerator about 25-30 times), didn't see any gas going into the carburetor. I checked the lines from the fuel pump (carter dual pump) all was clear. I then checked the line from the tank, again all clear. I pulled the fuel pump out and cleaned it up then pulled it apart - the diaphragms where worn and cracked. I'm a complete novice, is this something that we can attempt ourselves with a rebuilt kit, or is it just better to send it off for a completely rebuilt one. Either way, what is a good vendor to use? If you have any other advise -- We would welcome it. (Gas tank, sending unit; the gas gauge always reads full...) -- One issue at a time, I'm sure we will run into others...

As of now, our goal is to get this beauty running and then we will worry about the rest. We are really having fun doing this -- but it's very frustrating, waiting and for the more rewarding part of it...

[Bhigdog]

Send the pump to Then and Now. Google them. While it's gone spend the time inspecting the brakes and lines......................Bob

[Guest shadetree77]

Another vote for Then and Now. They did an awesome job with my pump and then traded me even for the correct fuel pump for my car when I realized the one I sent in was not original. Great customer service, quick turn around time, and pump looks brand new!

Then And Now Automotive

[Guest wildcat465]

Looks like the experts have given you a good tip for your pump.

The Dynaflow was standard only on the Roadmaster in 1955, but standard transmissions were rare on other series. I would guess that very few Supers had them. Can't say I've ever seen one.

My father got me involved with working on old cars when I was quite young. Glad to see you and your son taking on an ambitious project. If you have not yet joined the Buick Club of America, I recommend you do. Many vendors listed in a wonderful publication called the "Bugle". It is also a good way to connect with others that are not on this forum.

If you can get to South Bend, Indiana next week 17th to the 20th, you will see the BCA National Meet. Probably a few other 55's to compare your to. Some vendors could be there with parts you are looking for.

Edited July 14, 2013 by wildcat465
spilling (see edit history)

[buick5563]

Last edited by wildcat465; 13 Minutes Ago at 17:56. Reason: spilling

That's funny Paul.

Plus one on Then and Now.

Looks like a great project.

[bhambulldog]

The rubber part of the gas line might have cracks that allow air to leak IN , causing a low fuel delivery. In any event you are probably due to replace the rubber part of the fuel line.

And a filter, too

A new (rebuilt) fuel pump is certainly in order.

Just for your information; Your car has an early '55 engine (the valve covers tell the tale)

The fuel pump suppliers are going to ask if you want an early (multiple screws on top) fuel pump or late (single screw on top) fuel pump. Over the years I've had one and then the other on mine. Either one will work fine.

Other than the fuel pump, the difference between early and late is the oil filler cap(s).

Early (as yours is) has one oil filler cap on the camshaft valley cover.

Late (as mine is) has two oil filler caps. One each on the valve covers.

I've noticed something else unusual about you your car; is the power steering pump.

The other fellows here I'm sure can tell us more,

But, your pump looks more like what I've seen on '54 and '53 Buicks

I'm sure Then and Now is very good

Other good suppliers are

CARS old Buick Parts

Kanter

Steele Rubber

Bob's Auto Memorabilia

SMS Fabrics (interiors)

​Waldren Exhaust

[smithbrother]

I'm not trying to be BOSSY..., try very hard NOT to make a basket case out of it after you get it running.

First timers should consider doing just one thing at a time, it is so so easy to FORGET how something came apart. PICTURES, PICTURES, LABEL any and all wires, and lines.

Been there, done that.

I wish you well, have fun, FUN IS GOOD!

Dale in Indy

[Guest Jomaholz]

Thanks for all the replies -- Appreciate the help. I've joined BCA member #47124, have also joined the Gopher State Chapter. I did attend the Rochester and Iowa National Conventions a few years ago, had a great time. Dale, I've been taking pictures and drawing diagrams -- good advise. Also appreciate the comments about the car history, thanks bulldog. I'll be sending the fuel pump to be rebuilt, thanks again. John & Evan

[Guest wildcat465]

Thanks for all the replies -- Appreciate the help. I've joined BCA member #47124, have also joined the Gopher State Chapter.

Looking forward to seeing you at a meeting or event.

Donna and I are hosting a night at Wagner's Drive In out your way August 2nd.

[MrEarl]

Yes indeed, the 3 speed in a Super is "super" rare, especially in a 2 door. I've never seen a 55 Super 4 or 2 door with straight stick. From the cobwebs of my mind, I seem to recall that all large series 55's came standard with power steering, can some one verify that? But that does appear to be a '53 power steering pump reservoir and pulley. Do you know it that is the original engine? (the engine # is stamped on the flat surface of the left cylinder bank between the middle branches of the exhaust manifold). Do you know any more of the history of the car. Would love to see pictures of the dash/column shifter and floor pedals. Have you started a thread in the Me and My Buick forum. It's good to post tech questions here and general commentary and pics about the car in the Me and My Buick forum. Look forward to hearing more about this car and following your posts.

Edited July 15, 2013 by MrEarl (see edit history)

[Guest Jomaholz]

I do not know much about the history of this car -- the power steering reservoir and pulley do not seem original to this vehicle (reservoir says to fill with Transmission Fluid Type A?). The engine number is 116849 on the manifold it says 165384 - 1 -15. I've attached pictures of floor and column (the floor obviously needs to be replace. I'll start a thread in the Me and My Buick Forum, thanks for your interest and help.

Yes indeed, the 3 speed in a Super is "super" rare, especially in a 2 door. I've never seen a 55 Super 4 or 2 door with straight stick. From the cobwebs of my mind, I seem to recall that all large series 55's came standard with power steering, can some one verify that? But that does appear to be a '53 power steering pump reservoir and pulley. Do you know it that is the original engine? (the engine # is stamped on the flat surface of the left cylinder bank between the middle branches of the exhaust manifold). Do you know any more of the history of the car. Would love to see pictures of the dash/column shifter and floor pedals. Have you started a thread in the Me and My Buick forum. It's good to post tech questions here and general commentary and pics about the car in the Me and My Buick forum. Look forward to hearing more about this car and following your posts.

[trp3141592]

Hi,

A thought occurred to me about your fuel situation. If someone in the past "treated" the fuel tank with a sealant goop, they may have sealed off the fuel pick-up line in the tank. Also, sealing goop from more than a few years ago may turn into bubble gum with today's unavoidable ethanol crap-gas. Try removing the pick-up line from the tank and see if it comes out clean. Also, if you can peek down into the sending unit hole with a flashlight, you may be able to tell if the tank is all crudded up. If your tank needs to be reconditioned, there is a Gas Tank Renu franschise in Shakopee, MN, about 30 miles due south of you.

--Tom

[stealthbob]

The fuel pump is easy and would be fun as a "Father Son bench project".....

I have a write up with pics and attached shop manual pages here:

Fuel/Vac Pump Rebuild

Edited July 15, 2013 by stealthbob (see edit history)

[bhambulldog]

I do not know much about the history of this car -- the power steering reservoir and pulley do not seem original to this vehicle (reservoir says to fill with Transmission Fluid Type A?). The engine number is 116849 on the manifold it says 165384 - 1 -15. I've attached pictures of floor and column (the floor obviously needs to be replace. I'll start a thread in the Me and My Buick Forum, thanks for your interest and help.

You'll not find type 'A' anywhere anymore

Dexron III or Dexron IV is what I use

[smithbrother]

You might find a quart of TYPE A if you rode with the TV PICKER'S guys on one of their trips. hehehe.

That floor board looks like something I have seen in the past, GLAD IT'S IN THE PAST, tooooooo.

Have fun,

Dale in Indy

[Earl B.]

If you'll check wwwRockauto.com you will find the floor pans and toe boards to replace anything that is in rough shape or missing. Other sellers may have them too, but I know they do for sure..

[buick man]

buick man always recommends eliminating the gas tank all together as well as a oil pan drop and valve cover and engine valley cover removal and cleanup. Flush the engine by purging fresh oil up into the oil pump galley once removed and let all the flush oil drop into a large concrete plastic mixing pan with high sides. The oil will purge the camshaft bores, crankshaft/bearing bores, oil the rear man seal, purge the rocker shafts etc. Put everything back together and use a small one gallon gas can that you can connect to the incoming line of the fuel pump, then and only then begin the engine starting process. Run it off of the gas can until you are satisfied with starting and running conditions. Then drop the gas tank and remove the fuel line from tank to fuel pump. Clean out tank and install new fuel line and filter with green striped alcohol compliant rubber fuel line. Install a rear tank located electric fuel pump inline with the mechanical as an assist pump which will come in handy when forced to run corn-a-ol as a fuel. ..... Happy motoring and have fun doing this with junior.

[Guest Jomaholz]

buick man always recommends eliminating the gas tank all together as well as a oil pan drop and valve cover and engine valley cover removal and cleanup. Flush the engine by purging fresh oil up into the oil pump galley once removed and let all the flush oil drop into a large concrete plastic mixing pan with high sides. The oil will purge the camshaft bores, crankshaft/bearing bores, oil the rear man seal, purge the rocker shafts etc. Put everything back together and use a small one gallon gas can that you can connect to the incoming line of the fuel pump, then and only then begin the engine starting process. Run it off of the gas can until you are satisfied with starting and running conditions. Then drop the gas tank and remove the fuel line from tank to fuel pump. Clean out tank and install new fuel line and filter with green striped alcohol compliant rubber fuel line. Install a rear tank located electric fuel pump inline with the mechanical as an assist pump which will come in handy when forced to run corn-a-ol as a fuel. ..... Happy motoring and have fun doing this with junior.

Thanks for all the advice -- I pulled the gas tank and took it into "Tank-Renew" to get it taken care of, the fuel pump is done "Then & Now" and should be back in a couple of days. I also drained the oil and next will drop the oil pan. I don't have valve covers but did take the engine valley covers off -- How clean should I get this, and what is a good way to clean it? Also, what/where is the oil pump galley, for flushing/purging with oil? How much oil should I use? We are first timers and your experience is appreciated. As I read your suggestions, I'm not sure where the fuel filter is. I did remove and cleaned the one by the carburetor; is there another? Finally, where I can get a new fuel line? Remember, as of now we are just hoping to get it running -- Thanks, again... John & Evan

[buick man]

Jomaholz here is a primer for your review to get you started:

http://forums.aaca.org/f162/another-how-do-series-review-technique-335301.html

[Guest Jomaholz]

Jomaholz here is a primer for your review to get you started:

http://forums.aaca.org/f162/another-how-do-series-review-technique-335301.html

Thanks, just got the fuel pump and tank back yesterday -- I'll keep you posted

[old-tank]

Thanks for all the advice -- I pulled the gas tank and took it into "Tank-Renew" to get it taken care of, the fuel pump is done "Then & Now" and should be back in a couple of days. I also drained the oil and next will drop the oil pan. I don't have valve covers but did take the engine valley covers off -- How clean should I get this, and what is a good way to clean it? Also, what/where is the oil pump galley, for flushing/purging with oil? How much oil should I use? We are first timers and your experience is appreciated. As I read your suggestions, I'm not sure where the fuel filter is. I did remove and cleaned the one by the carburetor; is there another? Finally, where I can get a new fuel line? Remember, as of now we are just hoping to get it running -- Thanks, again... John & Evan

John and Evan

See my website (in my signature) for details on cleaning the valley cover. After you get it back together, put a quart of oil in the filter canister with the filter, install, add 5 more quarts to the crankcase. Crank with the plugs out (after putting about a teaspoonful of transmission fluid in each cylinder) until oil pressure shows on the gauge. Install plugs and fire it up. (you of course did the ignition: new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, points, condenser; rebuilt or know good carb (only filter is in the back of the the carb); before you get too far from home in hot weather you will need to install an electric fuel pump by the tank --- that car will vapor lock on the available gas.

More to come... just ask.

Willie

[Guest Jomaholz]

Thanks again - wouldn't be able to attempt this without your advice. Theses maybe questions that shows our inexperience at anything like this, but here there are - What type of oil is best for this car? I'm assuming 10/30. It's also been suggested that I use Dexron III or IV for the transmission fluid since the "Type A" is difficult to find, do you agree? I'll keep you posted with progress. John & Evan

[bhambulldog]

10/30 is good.

The owner's manual says 30w. I've been using single grade 30w for 40 years with good results. Also , I add a pint of STP w ZDDP (zinc). As the new oils are lacking in zinc.

Also a few miles before an oil change,I add 8 ounces of MarvelMystery Oil to breakup sludge and deposits.

And to each fill up of gasoline , I add 4 ounces of Marvel Mystery Oil. The lack of TetraEthylLead leaves the valves unlubricated. So that bit of MarvelMysteryOil can help with that. Dad ran Marvel Mystery Oil in hisfuel for his flat head engines . And he used it in the Roadmaster, too.

Also, all the gas stations near me have ethanol in the fuel. So I add Stabil or Seafoam to each fill up.

[bhambulldog]

Oh,

Dexron III and Dexron IV are fine.

I haven't seen any type 'A' for MANY years.

We had the transmission rebuilt 12 years ago and have been using Dexron with good results

[bhambulldog]

Willie has given you great advice on reviving that engine.

Many folks use transmission fluid in the cumbustion chamber has he has directed.

I've always used Marvel Mystery Oil for that.

I'm sure either is just as good.

But it IS important to have something of that nature in the combustion chamber BEFORE cranking a long dormant engine.

And maybe a few drops on the valve stems , rockers, and push rods, too.

[old-tank]

10/30 is probably fine for year round driving in MN. I use 20/50 Castrol (no additives) since I charge around the country in 100*+ temps with the a/c running. The Dexron mentioned is fine. Gas additives will not hurt, but being cheap I never use them .

Willie

[bhambulldog]

Yes,

For Minn 10/30 is in order.

I used Castrol 20/50 for 28 years in my '73 Olds. I put 55,000 miles on it in all types of weather. From snow to cruising the Gulf coast in the blazing summer

[buick man]

10/30 is good.

The owner's manual says 30w. I've been using single grade 30w for 40 years with good results. Also , I add a pint of STP w ZDDP (zinc). As the new oils are lacking in zinc.

Also a few miles before an oil change,I add 8 ounces of MarvelMystery Oil to breakup sludge and deposits.

And to each fill up of gasoline , I add 4 ounces of Marvel Mystery Oil. The lack of TetraEthylLead leaves the valves unlubricated. So that bit of MarvelMysteryOil can help with that. Dad ran Marvel Mystery Oil in hisfuel for his flat head engines . And he used it in the Roadmaster, too.

Also, all the gas stations near me have ethanol in the fuel. So I add Stabil or Seafoam to each fill up.

To add to this, actually the Buick and Cadillac engines of this era had a very, very high nickel content in the metal composition of the engine block and heads unlike chevys, fords and chrysler products of the day. So no real need to add lead or to attempt to install so called hardened valve seats in a nailhead block. They are already hardened by the metal makeup/composition.

As to adding Stabil and Sea-foam to fuels, it will only help prevent the lacquer-ization of the fuel but not the gummy bear solidification of the fuel. It will not change the inherent chemical composition of corn-a-hol fuel for it's insatiable appetite for creating water from the atmosphere. The only way to prevent that is to use a true non-oxygenated fuel ( No Alcohol ). VP Racing Fuels have a non-oxygenated 96 ROM octane, non leaded fuel that you can use for long term storage and has a shelf/tank life of approximately 3-years. Far superior to that of 30-days for corn-a-hol fuels. Another route is to use the leaded Aviation Fuel that is currently available. Tank life is up to 5 years and greater. ...... Hope this helps.

[bhambulldog]

Good points , all. And well said

[Guest Jomaholz]

I've switched most comments and updates to "Me and My Buick" -- But, Check out this video -- Evan and I got the Nailhead going, we are very excited.

Still lots to do and as always, any and all advise welcomed. We never would have gotten this far without responses from these forums. Brakes and Muffler are next... Edited August 5, 2013 by Jomaholz (see edit history)

[bhambulldog]

Hooray !!!

Looking Good !!

Sounding Good !!!

Waldren Exhaust is good !! Expensive. But Good.

[JohnD1956]

Buicks often seem to want to run! Good job helping this one back to life!

[buick man]

Please remember, the main mantra some of us have been chanting here regarding pre-start cleaning procedures is that getting the engine to run is no real hardship task. But getting it to run cleanly from and at the first start up is because if you don't what you end up with is a running "mill grinding machine", just milling your internal component tolerances down and taking years off a otherwise perfectly good engine in a matter of minutes of cold run time from a deep and long hibernation.