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1933 Dodge Cabriolet (DP6)


jed85
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Hi,

Just became active in the Dodge forum. I found an original 1933 Dodge DP6 Cabriolet that has been stored since 1959 in NorCAL. Looking to find the location of the vin# (since the tag is missing in the passenger door frame). I have been told it is located on the frame (???location???).

Also, need the back tail sheetmetal below the rumble seat lid (this is NOT a trunk car) and the support brackets.

Finally, I will paint it the original color (a medium blue.....neet the current Dupont color codes, pin stripe options and the color of the wire wheels).

Thanks for you help.

Mike

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1933_Dodge_Cabriolet_passenger_side_view.pdf

1933_Dodge_Cabriolet_frontend.pdf

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Hi,

Just became active in the Dodge forum. I found an original 1933 Dodge DP6 Cabriolet that has been stored since 1959 in NorCAL. Looking to find the location of the vin# (since the tag is missing in the passenger door frame). I have been told it is located on the frame (???location???).

Also, need the back tail sheetmetal below the rumble seat lid (this is NOT a trunk car) and the support brackets.

Finally, I will paint it the original color (a medium blue.....neet the current Dupont color codes, pin stripe options and the color of the wire wheels).

Thanks for you help.

Mike

Going thru Chrysler historical may help with your paint code, you will have to apply for a copy of your build sheet and on that sheet will be a code which I or someone here could possibly decipher, once having that code you may be able to contact Dupont historical and see if they ever rolled over the old code into a new formula.

I am assuming at this point that this is your best option, this is the most accurate avenue of getting the information you seek up until the 32 vehicles and I am only assuming that 33 would be the same deal.

I may have some color bulletins for 33 that may provide some assistance as well if needed.

I am sure 33Ply will be able to answer many of your questions as well as some other regulars on this forum, welcome, it would be nice to see more pictures of your new car.

I cannot remember the location of frame number on this car if I ever did know.

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The Dodge color schedule posted can contain wildly inaccurate information. Not saying its all wrong but I am saying that the information given cannot be trusted as accurate and correct.

If its all that surfaces than great and of course use it and have fun but you did show an interest in getting it correct so I would put a bit more time into it. '

I will look to see about the Chrysler/ Dodge paint bulletins I may or may not have for this late of a vehicle. In the meantime you will prob. need to get a copy of your build card as mentioned so we can know the true original color on your car, if I have anything than it will only be a list ( possibly partial ) of avail CORRECT colors avail for your model.

Edited by 1930 (see edit history)
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Just looked at the bulletins and yes you will need to get the color code ( even for this late of a vehicle ) which will be on your original build card, once you get this we can decipher your cars original paint prob. down to the pinstripe.

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Hi Mike, More pictures please. I can not tell by looking at the first photo if the sheet metal and reveal (body molding) is missing or just the sheet metal between the reveals. On my Plymouth there is no rain gutter on the bottom horizontal part of the deck lid opening. I will post pictures when I get back from church. This may be repairable with a piece of sheet metal welded into place. Looks like a prior owner used this car to carry ladders or lumber. Based on experience with my 1933 Plymouth convertible you may have rust out in front of the rear fender wheel housing and in the lower cowl section. Water drained out of the rain gutters in the rumble areas through two holes in the floor. This was not a very robust design but one shared by many manufacturers of this era including Chevrolet. Keep the pic's coming. Chris

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Nice find! The only place to find the VIN is where you mentioned. The frame number is the same as the engine number, which is different than the VIN. Unless you have the VIN from the title, it may be near impossible to get it, as last time I contacted Chrysler Historical, they could not ( or would not) give a VIN (or build card) by referencing the engine/frame number.

As far as sheet metal goes, rileyreproductions.com may have some of the sheet metal you may need.

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Not sure if '33 is the same as '34, but frame numbers for '34 are located on driver side between middle and rear running board bracket, and also behind rear axle above rear spring.

1933 DeSoto number is at the same frame location between the running board brackets......

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post-86357-143142011379_thumb.jpgMike, here is what may be missing from your Dodge. Keep in mind this is a 1933 PD Plymouth Convertible. The first picture is a wedge that positions the center of the top edge of the sheet metal missing from your car. It mounts to the bracket you can see in picture two about in the center of the photo. You can see this bracket again in the third picture on extreme right corner. It is helpful in controlling the curvature of this panel to conform to the curvature of the bottom of the deck lid and the clearance of the opening so the deck lid does not rub against the sheet metal. You are not missing a whole lot as you could fabricate most of this. Riley's (Lloyd's) makes high quality parts and I am using the cowl and wheel well patch panels on my Plymouth. You can see them under my thread in the Plymouth part of this forum. Hope this helps, Chris

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Hi Chris,

Any change you can take the dimensions of the center support piece and the support bracket (pic #1). I have a few sheetmetal fab houses nearby that could make these if I had all of the dimensions. As you can see from my most recent post, I have fabricated the rain gutters (someone took a hachet to the originals...) and the support member that goes on the inside across the back.

Thanks,

Mike

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Hi Mike, these are from my 33 Plymouth PD Rumble Seat Coupe which is a dodge body (or close to)

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Not sure what the 2 holes are for but I will get them at the end of the week.

Note that vertical end points are to the outer edge of the bead line (where I think yours has been cut off) as mine is rusted out at the bottom rad.

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Edited by TomP
note added (see edit history)
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Not sure if '33 is the same as '34, but frame numbers for '34 are located on driver side between middle and rear running board bracket, and also behind rear axle above rear spring.

Going through this with some people in the Plymouth Owners Club trying to figure out what years had what numbers stamped exactly where.

It seems that several '34 Plymouths have been found where the serial number was stamped on the left (US driver's side) frame rail between the running board brackets. Typically stamped twice a few inches apart. I am guessing, but have not heard, that the engine number is stamped elsewhere on the frames of those cars.

1933 DeSoto number is at the same frame location between the running board brackets......

Just found out last night that my '33 Plymouth has the engine number stamped in that same location. Based on your photo with a number starting with "SD" I believe that yours is the engine number too.

(Actually my PD with the correct engine per the build card has the right sequential digits stamped on the frame but prefixed by "PC" rather than "PD". Don't know if that was intentional or not but I suspect that somebody made a mistake on the assembly line.)

Anyway there appears to be a difference on Plymouth between '33 and '34 as to what numbers were stamped where on the frame.

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Tom,

Just reviewed the pictures again.........GOLD!

On picture #4, the rain gutter stops, but a metal strip (curved) flows to the floorpan. I assume this is the same material thickness as the raingutter?

Thanks again.

Mike

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post-86357-143142021732_thumb.jpgThese should do the trick. Let me know if you need another dimension. The side that has tabs is for 1/4 -20 stove bolts. The nut is held captive and a round head slotted bolt screws into it. A washer and lock washer should be under stove bolt head. My best estimate on the radius of the stamped upset is a little less than 3/8 inch. I will visit the car at the shop on Thursday and will get dimensions and better photos of the bracket that holds this bracket. A piece of body webbing and a piece of 1/4 inch felt was between this bracket and the back of the body. Chris

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Tom,

Just reviewed the pictures again.........GOLD!

On picture #4, the rain gutter stops, but a metal strip (curved) flows to the floorpan. I assume this is the same material thickness as the raingutter?

Thanks again.

Mike

Mike the body metal is 19swg but the gutter channel and the rear beam are thicker not sure of the gauge?

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I think that this is a picture of Al Smith fleet that we bought out about 10 years ago. 1 of them i think is a 33-34 like the one your restoring.

That pickup truck, second from the back, looks like the one Al Jr. used to haul stuff to the Pomona swap meet back when I got a number of parts from him. He was a very nice person to do business with and it was shocked to hear of his passing only 6 months or so after I last bought parts from him. He gave no hint that he had serious heath issues at that time.

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post-86357-143142024568_thumb.jpgOk, The bracket is being held against the sheet metal panel below rumble lid. You can see where the holes line up if slid behind the bracket. As mentioned earlier there is 1/8 inch body webbing and a 1/4 inch felt pad between bracket and sheet metal panel. Slots are 3/16 inch plus wide. My notes say 1/4-20 round head bolt (stove bolt). The 3/16 inch plus width of the slot suggest it could be 12-24 Stove bolt but I may have measured incorrectly. I will look at this again early next week. The part of the bracket in front is 2 1/4 inches wide. It travels in the rear one which is 2 15/16 inches wide. The flange on each of them is 1/4 inches. The length of both of these together is 9 inches long before they begin their bends. This dimension will vary as you adjust the position of the sheet metal panel vis-à-vis the decklid etc. The photo with the tape measure should allow you to calculate the correct length of each side which I forgot to measure, your forgiveness is appreciated. This bracket sits to the right hand side of the hole that accommodates the spare tire bracket rod. Let me know if you need clarification or more dimensions. I will post a bunch of body parts pictures that are striped and epoxy primered in my Plymouth thread "Color for 1933 Plymouth PD" which is covering the restoration of my car. Chris

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