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Auto Rotisserie's - Anyone with experience?


Guest Higgs56

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Guest Higgs56

Hi everyone,

I am wondering if anybody would mind sharing their experience with an "auto rotisserie" style thing for restoring. We used to have the "tilt a car" version, but it was recalled. Lucky for us, we did what we needed with it, shipped it back, and got a refund! How's that for good fortune.

In our case, the tilt a car actually performed pretty well, we just had to tweak a couple things here and there due to the shotty design of the thing, but it worked great for our purposes. So, I wanted to revisit them and see what other people thought of them, what their experience is with them, and if they would recommend using one for a resto.

Thanks,

Zac

-To moderators: I also posted this in Technical, and if you would rather not have two of them, I understand. Just let me know, and either you or I can take it down.

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I put together a homemade rotisserie using two harbor freight engine stands for the rotating parts. There are many posts on the internet about building these and it sure made things easier on my back. Gotta be able to weld, though. Here is a video when I first started the work on the Skylark. After blasting and epoxy prime before replacing rust outs.

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Guest bigdee47

If you're taking the body off the frame, and/or plan on working on the underside, or even the top, you MUST have one! I've met two guys who have done trifive Chevys on their backs, completely stripping the underside with a torch and a putty knife, but I think they're a bit crazy. I did mine on a rotisserie and I cannot even imagine any other way. Also nice for working on the underside of the dash and the inside of the top.

Do whatever you have to do to get one.

David

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Guest Higgs56

Thanks Bob and David, I was hoping that the newer ones were worth it, they look enticing. We just had to pull all the chrome off our 56 Buick, and even that was a pain laying under it and getting dirt showers while trying to get the rear tail lights bezels out. I just wasn't entirely sure that the "rotisserie" style ones were any better than the tilt a car that got recalled. Plus, that thing kind of worked funky. I'm glad to hear that these things are worth it. We don't have a project to work on, but I want to be armed with info when the time comes. You never know when something will be just too good to pass up!

Thanks for the link to the video Bob. I'm going to check it out right now.

Zac

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After borrowing one from a friend, I can say without a doubt, that they are a valuable tool. I looked around the Internet and found really nice rotisseries from numerous manufacturers at what I considered reasonable prices. I also found plans to build your own. Personally, I would prefer to start working on my car rather than running around buying metal and fabricating one. Either way, you are going to get a dirt shower until the body is on the rotisserie, i.e. bumpers need to come off before mounting the body.

Good luck with your restoration, and check back in. There are a lot of mid 50's Buick guys around her to help with questions, and we all like to see progress and pictures in the "Me and my Buick" forum.

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Guest Higgs56

Thanks Mike, I agree that buying would be better than making, especially since we don't weld. From looking online, it appears that most of the rotisseries are pretty similar. Do you think these things are pretty much the same, or have you found certain ones that are superior?

As for progress on the car, I will be updating as we go, but we aren't taking this one down to the frame and all. Just a new paint job, which is done now, and some touch-ups here and there. We also set up a website that is still a WIP, but we are going to try and add some how-to's and such in the future mainly for Buick owners, but also for classic car enthusiasts in general. We hope to start shooting video too, but that is currently low on the list of things I need to learn for the site!

Thanks,

Zac

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  • 1 month later...

I'm a bit late on this post but feel it's a good time to chime in on the rotisserie topic, I have two words here "ROLLER HOOP" this is my new concept in body shell rotation, being a professional body restoration shop I have always been looking for a better way to rotate a body shell for rust repairs clean up and such. Having used a few of the typical end mount units and even making my own they all did the job, But i needed better performance, I wanted less stress, I wanted less space being used, I wanted safer operation, I wanted more efficiency, I wanted easier mobility and trailer loading ability! Yes i wanted it all, So I spent about a year designing my new system the ROLLER HOOP. it took care of all my desires I was looking for now I have three of them in my shop going at most times. Now the only problem I have with it is I'm so busy manufacturing and shipping them out I'm still far behind on my restoration work! I should have just keep this exciting new concept exclusive to my shop, but I like to see others benefiting as well so we now have near 80 some units around the world. so be sure to check out our website to get more info and see pictures. I hope this helps open up your options.

Doug Kielian

Auto Kraft body & paint

Lincoln, Neb.

Roller Hoop - Auto Rotisserie

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Guest Higgs56

Thought I replied, but I think I forgot to hit send or reply. Anyway, thanks Doug, it looks similar to the one we used to have, but much better. I'll definitely keep you in mind when we get the need for one again, and I'll let others know too. Had a question about it... Do you have to take the car down to the body, or could you keep some of the parts on the car? For example, could you take the motor, trans, driveshaft and wheels off, but leave some bumpers, interior, axles on?

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That is an interesting concept Doug.

Yeh the Idea has been around since the Automobile it's self we found all kinds of crazy concepts through our Patenting process, but nothing that was ever actually proved to work consistently or produced. We now have three to four in operation at our shop at any given time and close to 80 units now in four countries! It has been a slow advancement but the idea is catching on, to be-able to rotate the body shell of a classic car with such ease, safety, reliability and not creating undo stress to the shell, since it is mounted inboard in the suspension area rather than on the ends where many body's suffer from rust issues. You have four brakes you can operate individually when working on the body a simple press of the foot brake and your locked in place to perform metal work or clean up, simply toe kick the brake off and your rolling again that simple!

I needed a system that was more effective and space saving and easier to operate and work with then my end mount units, the Roller Hoop far outseeded my expectations I was only looking for a better way to get my restoration work done and help my media blaster guy out, since he had issues with the standard end mount systems, he loves this Roller Hoop concept for he can simply roll the body shell in his blasting zone to get topost-91923-143142182157_thumb.jpg all the bottom side with ease, and can get it done in half the time as with my other system. There is so much more to benefit from by using a Roller Hoop be sure to visit our web site Roller Hoop - Auto Rotisserie and contact us if you have any questions. Here are just a few random pictures I also train young guys here at my shop and the Roller Hoop makes restoration work FUN and Exciting for them!

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  • 1 year later...

Thought I replied, but I think I forgot to hit send or reply. Anyway, thanks Doug, it looks similar to the one we used to have, but much better. I'll definitely keep you in mind when we get the need for one again, and I'll let others know too. Had a question about it... Do you have to take the car down to the body, or could you keep some of the parts on the car? For example, could you take the motor, trans, driveshaft and wheels off, but leave some bumpers, interior, axles on?

 To answer your question, with the Roller Hoop rotisserie  you can leave the front rear bumper on if you wish,  matter of fact  say you have a real nice done car but the bottom side is dirty/ surface rusty and you wish it was nice & clean, painted and showy? Well your going to spend a life time under the car trying to clean sand, wire brush etc. and it will be a miserable job and your efforts  wont go very far!

 

 Well consider  you can easily pull a drive line out of a typical car in a 1/2 a day, remove wheels tires, brake drums, and then mount your same car up in a Roller Hoop rotisserie, there are plenty of places to mount to under the car  or even to the wheel studs anything that is a good attaching point,  run a couple supports out to the sides, and for the upper Hoops you can then just run two crossover  supports to tie the Hoops together on the top.  This way you could leave all your glass trim interior, hood,  deck lid, doors etc. on the car!  while setting on the Roller base units  with brakes, you can then turn it sideways and have great access to all the bottom side to do your clean up work!  

 

You can do like what we do all the time and simply roll up on a trailer and go visit your local media blaster guy and have him media blast the bottom side clean and you'll be having a ball cleaning up prepping and painting up the bottom side of your classic and making it so pretty.

 

  So yes you can leave the bumpers on, basically just need to remove the heavy items liquid, and loose items, seats, belts because there is always loose change that will come out!  So you even make a few bucks lol !  

 

    Here are a few pics of a 73 Vette we did  while still heaving the rear frt suspension in it just for example.    

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Edited by auto doug (see edit history)
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heavens no!  it is as simple as measuring from side to side TO GET IT CENTERED, and as far as height  goes appx 33 inches from floor to top of rocker panel,  appx 36 inches  for convertible,  or as some shorter guys have done mount it down lower then add ballast on the top between the two tabs on the Hoops. Pretty basic simple stuff,  plus we have a 36 pg. hand book and a DVD that explains and shows all that you need to know.  If you can cut, weld, drill, nut & bolt  your qualified!   and you'll have a blast spinning it around & around while cleaning your car up, doing repairs  or just showing off to your friends & neighbors.  

 

One of my first customers in California Mike A,  had all these guys with fancy sports cars zipping by his house all the time, never even slow down to check out his  SCCA race car, he has a basic three car garage with some nice cabinets & tools and  a project car or two, so he's out there all the time working evenings. We set up his 67 Mustang fastback up in a Roller Hoop  it sets in one stall on the end but visible from the street. Mike said it was funny the first couple weeks those couple guys would zip past his house, then he heard the brakes come on and then they would back up and look in his garage?  fascinated or confused I guess?  seeing a classic car suspended upside down in a Hoop thing!   Not  a typical  sight in a suburbia garage!   After driving by real slow and looking for a week or so  they got so curious  they ended up stopping to see what it was all about!  So that is just another benefit of the Roller Hoop it make new friends for you!                   

Edited by auto doug (see edit history)
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I have to mention the "rotisserie" I used when I began the body off restoration of my '38 Buick Special coupe over 40 years ago.

 

I, too was looking for a way to not have to have crud falling in my face doing the bottom of the body.

 

My 25¢ solution was to use 2 old king size matresses, lay them on the floor, Put the body on the matresses  and just roll the body over as needed. Cheap and dirty - very, on both counts.

 

The body metal was rigid enough that I didnt have to worry about anything bending. And the body was totally stripped of all its hardware.

 

I didnt use the matresses agan after I was done.

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.....Not  a typical  sight in a suburbia garage!.....                   

 

Is it because most of your typical residential overhead doors are around 7'-high and once the body is installed on the hoops, it looks like you need close to a 9'-height with the small wheels on it, and once assembled inside, you can't push it outside if you want to dazzle the neighbors and roll it around the block? 

 

All your promo ads show media blasters in a warehouse setting and body shop bays with what looks like 10'-12'-high overhead doors.

 

Your comments are appreciated re: what dimensions are minimum. Thanks.

 

 

 

Al Malachowski

BCA #8965

"500 Miles West of Flint"

 

 

EDIT

Just what I initially thought and probably the reason for the lack of a response. Doing a GOOGLE search and for those interested, the hoops come in either a 7'-3" or a 7'-9" diameter and the descriptive says that you need a 7'-10" clearance to go through a door opening. With those dimensions and other issues, in my opinion, it is not the ideal setup for a location with a typical residential 7'-0" high overhead garage door or in an area with a low (8'-0") ceiling. It eliminates the ability to move it outside if you want to do some work on it on a sunny day or just blow the dust off of it, plus you're limiting your potential market when you decide to sell it. 

 

 

Edited by 1953mack (see edit history)
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Is it because most of your typical residential overhead doors are around 7'-high and once the body is installed on the hoops, it looks like you need close to a 9'-height with the small wheels on it, and once assembled inside, you can't push it outside if you want to dazzle the neighbors and roll it around the block? 

 

All your promo ads show media blasters in a warehouse setting and body shop bays with what looks like 10'-12'-high overhead doors.

 

Your comments are appreciated re: what dimensions are minimum. Thanks.

 

 

 

Al Malachowski

BCA #8965

"500 Miles West of Flint"

 

 

EDIT

Just what I initially thought and probably the reason for the lack of a response. Doing a GOOGLE search and for those interested, the hoops come in either a 7'-3" or a 7'-9" diameter and the descriptive says that you need a 7'-10" clearance to go through a door opening. With those dimensions and other issues, in my opinion, it is not the ideal setup for a location with a typical residential 7'-0" high overhead garage door or in an area with a low (8'-0") ceiling. It eliminates the ability to move it outside if you want to do some work on it on a sunny day or just blow the dust off of it, plus you're limiting your potential market when you decide to sell it. 

The Roller Hoop is designed to work as a piece of equipment that you might choose to help you restore your one special car or a whole collection?  When people see it in action it does dazzle them a bit, they like to check it out and watch it roll on the base units and all that!  They usually disappear quickly once you mention to them grab a wire brush and a scraper and get busy!  Most the Roller Hoops have gone to hobbyist guys that are working in their back yard shops or?  a few professional restoration shop around the world are also now benefiting from the Roller Hoop as well.

 

 If you do happen to have a low 7 foot door at your home garage, there are several ways you can deal with this issue.  Mike the guy in Calif. when it was time to bring his car (67 fastback Mustang) home after some display activity at Pomona and the Long Beach swapmeets. his door was 7'  so we just rolled his snap-on tool box out put some blankets and blocks of wood on top of it  then raised the frt Hoop up a few inches using the jack arm set the body shell on the blocks so the Hoop was off the floor a few inches, we then unbolted the front Hoop rolled the car in past the doorway bolted the hoop back in place installed the rolling casters, rolled the car in and repeated with the rear Hoop, within ten minuted we were in the garage where we could work on the body shell in comfort. A simple solution to what looked to be a major ordeal.

 

Ok next is the same situation but say you want to roll the body shell outside in the drive way from time to time and work on it there in the fresh air, fairly simple deal. Cut a section of 11 gauge 1.5'' steel tube (same as the Hoops) to fit under the the Hoops at the top about 12 " long cut the ends so that it fits the contour of the inside the Hoops and gives you a flat spot on top of the Hoop. V groove the edges and weld in place. Then  take a saws all or cut off wheel  and carefully cut the top of the Hoop off  this will give you just a small flat spot on top to clear your garage door, of course you'll want to weld on some bumpstops on to prevent  rolling onto the flat spots, but you'll still have enough rotation from side to side to do all your restoration work. The last Idea is not recommended, use the saws all and redesign your header above the door to have a nice round arch, so I won't even mention that one!   

 

 I just rolled a 70 Torino out side of my shop and back in under my 8 foot door  the stance with the legs on it is 7' 9"   hope these ideas help the low door senaireo              

Edited by auto doug (see edit history)
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