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Mrutter59

-46 deSoto Noisy relay

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Oki, i look in to that later. Was at the garage today and starded up the car. The relay is still making noice, even after i change the wiring. The wire to guv. on trans is conected. Everything between the trans and the relay is new, from icnition coil to relay is new wiring. Still low on volt to Bat on relay, 2.8.It did some upshift, when wire from guv to relay is off. Another thing is that the kickdown unit on the carb start to making noice? after the ree-wiring. And when i changed the wirers, Bat and pri on its places at the ign.coil the noice stoped. At the relay to? No shift at all. Guv wire still off.

Hmmm...i will change the ign.coil tomorrow and se what happens. Or its volt loss between generator and ign. coil.

On top of this, the oil precure droped from 40 to 20-30, just like that when i was test driving. I know where to look but still.....

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Well, you need to get the Battery (BAT) terminal voltage to 6 volts. You do have it wired correctly? It should go to the Negative (-) terminal on the Ignition Coil then to the Ignition Switch.

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I will reecheck it tomorrow. Maby it is something wrong with the wire to the ignition switch.Q about the oil pressure gauge. When i take it out for cleening, do i have to empty the engine of oil first?

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Hallo again. The car is still not running. With all new wires from the relay, to trans, ignitionswich and carb its still noicy, I change all bad wires i find, to generator,starter solenoid. Still not getting the 6 volt i need to bat terminal on relay. What i did found was that the volt is to high between battery and terminal on generator. 5 instead of 0.35. And between the a and b terminals on the voltregulator its 5v, should be 0.12. So i have one electric circle with less volt and one with to much. Also the ignition coil is very hot. I am thinking of the generator not letting out proper amount of volt. Or the ignitioncoil, or the starter swich, button. How about ground straps? Were should they be?

Annyone?

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We need to solve this one problem at a time. We will start with the ignition coil getting hot as we don't want to burn-up the coil. To do this we need some information. Does the ignition coil get hot when:

A. The engine is running.

B. The engine is off and the ignition switch is ON.

C. The engine is off and the ignition switch is OFF.

D. The ignition coil gets hot in all three states A, B and C.

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I have check it out and yhe ignition coil is hot in state A and B.

Well, that is an interesting result. It almost if it was 12 volt system and somebody took out the dropping resistor. I am going to take a guess here and say that the wire from the relay Battery (BAT) terminal is wired to the ignition coil terminal that is wired to the distributor. It should go to the other terminal.

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Your guess is correct. So if i switch the terminals, the wire from bat on relay will be conected to the +terminal on the coil. The wires on coil + terminal should then be ignition switch and relay-bat. On the -terminal of the coil it should be distrubutor and the wire from the pri terminal on relay? Or is it three wires on the +terminal on the coil?

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OK, the correct wiring for your Desoto is on Negative (-) terminal on the ignition coil should have the wire from the Battery (BAT) terminal on the relay and the wire from the ignition switch. The Postive (+) terminal on the ignition coil should have the wire from the PRI terminal on the relay and the wire from the distributor. It's wired this way because on postive ground system like your Desoto, the Postive (+) terminal on the ignition coil is wired to the distributor.

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Oki. I will go to teh garage right now and try this out. This wiring is different from the one in my Shop manual so this should be interesting. Thank you for your advice.

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Now i am back from the garage and i have made the shanges in the wireing. Things did happen. The relay is now quiet.I tested the voltage on the relay whit engine running, and here it is; The TH terminal on relay have 6 volt. The BAT terminal have now 035 volt, it was 2,8 before. SOL terminal also have 0.35volt. PRI have 2,6volt and INT have 2.6volt.

I take the car for same testrunning and it did shift up and down, not pefektly well. I did same fix with the idle rpm but its still a little bit "hard" in the shifting. I have filled in new oil, iso32 hydralic and perhaps the gearbox must be running a wile first so it shifts better.

But as a hole, this is a big step forward...

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It looks like we are making some progress. But we still have some issues. The voltage on the Battery (BAT) terminal cannot be 0.35 volts if it is connected to the Negative (-) terminal on the ignition coil. You maybe getting some interference from the running engine that is upsetting your meter. Try that test with engine off and the ignition switch on.

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Hi. I have rechecked the voltage, now from +terminal on battery to bat/relay and there was 5.7volt. Correct? I took a nother ign.coil and trimed the rpm with a laser tester to aprox. 457rpm. Then i testdrived and,now it shift from 3 to 4 and back in good order. Still its to much voltage between batery and generator, and i am not shure about were the ground stripes should be. But now i can take the car home from were it is. Garage is in another village. Wow,i am happy.

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First, thank you Comodore for all your help, really presiate that. Well a new noice have appeard. I was hoping to drive the car home today but....the noice is more like "sparkling" and at the same time, the speedometer nidle moves like a ping pong boll over the display. It comes and goes, at first in higner speed but after a wile, even in lover. What in the world is that?

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Sounds like your speedometer cable needs to be lubricated. Try disconnecting the speedometer cable at the transmission and drive it to see if the noise goes away. If the noise goes away and transmission doesn't leak oil, you can drive it home.

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Hi. The speedometer cable is fixed. Now i have some problems with the oilpressure. It is about 40 when i drive but when i stopp at a redlight,it goes down to like 20 or less. And after stopping and then try to start, it is difficult to start again, takes a wile, it doesent build up enough pressure. A friend say, it could depend on the motor oil. I have Castrol 50-50 in the engine.Is that not correct?

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"Now i have some problems with the oilpressure. It is about 40 when i drive but when i stopp at a redlight,it goes down to like 20 or less."

Excellent. Factory spec calls for 45 - 55 PSI @ 30 MPH (50KPH). 20PSI at idle is excellent.

"Thanks. And how about the discussion of detergent or not and mineral or not?"

Multigrade, detergent oil was introduced in 1951. Chances are, it was used in your car as soon as it became available. I know in North America 10W30 motor oil was used automatically for all oil changes unless the customer said different. This was in the fifties, sixties and seventies.

Talk to some old mechanics and ask what they used on cars like yours, when they were in common service.

Synthetic oil not recommended because it leaks through old seals and gaskets.

I would use a good brand of 10W30 oil. 50 is way too heavy for the engine crankcase. Save it for the air cleaner, it is supposed to be filled with 50 oil (in warm weather) below freezing, when weather is below 0c, use 30 oil in the air cleaner.

This subject has been discussed many, many times. If you do a search you should find plenty of opinions. I prefer to go by facts.

When your car was made, Chrysler recommended 10W oil for below 0c, 20W20 for summer, 30 for hot weather over 70F (21c). 5W for extreme cold weather (0F or -18c). I don't think you will be using your Chrysler when it is that cold.

These different grades were replaced by 10W30 when it became available.

Edited by Rusty_OToole (see edit history)

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Thank you Rusty for your very exellent answer on the oil issue.I just buy some sae30 oil from Castrol. Now i have another problem that i think is more serius. When i open the hood there was whater around 2 sparkplugs. No 2 and 3, from front. I problem some days before, the car just stop and refused to start. Now it has been standing some days. Well i dryed it from water and when i pushed the start button, it bubbles up like air/water around the sparkplugs. ???

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