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33 Coupe rear silll missing


TomP
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Rust got the better of the backend, this is the only area thats missing on the whole car, its a PDX rumble seat 1933.

What I am trying to do is establish the approx dims to make good, eventially there is a rear valance which covers the

gas tank and bumper irons.

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Picture 1 is another car with the same rust problem. Picture 2 is my trunk rear floor panel. Picture 3 shows where the previous

owner got happy with the angle grinder and cut back to good metal. Picture 4 is where I have laid-up paper template of what is needed to be replaced on the rear inner fenders. Picture 5 is Pic 4 with the paper removed. Sketch 6 is the info hopefully someone can come up with, Im guessing that the ? dims is about 3", but I would like to make it right.

Thanks for looking.

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Tom, Riley's Body Shop and Reproductions are reproducing the body patch panels you need for the rear of these 1933 and 1934 Plymouth and Dodge cars. They even do the complex one you have the newspaper taped to. Bing or Google Riley's Reproduction Plymouth and it will show up in listing, they are in Kansas. They are not inexpensive but neither is a good body man. It seems a lot of these cars rusted out in this area, in particular rumble seat models. The rain gutter goes about 2/3 down the side of the rumble area and than dumps the water through a hole in the body floor and rear cross member. I think in a climate that has more than a few rainstorms a year the floor remained damp or wet most of the time. Throw an old news paper or rags back there and it will fill up with water. Chevrolet's of this time period are no better. I hope someone in the AACA on this side of the pond, or better yours, has a frame you can get the rear cross member from. Chris

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Hi Chris, thanks for the quick reply, I have looked at the panels Floyd produces but feel there's nothing there I can't produce myself plus the fact I would be throwing more metal away than using, that being said, brilliant panels though. Your comments on the cross member, is that the piece in pic 2 ? or are you referring to the panel immediately above the gas tank. About the drainage from the trunk lid, my intention is to totally redesign that area, on my body there is nothing to take the water that runs off the lid itself in-conjunction to the side channels that you refer to.

Finding parts this side of the pond is very slim, according to POC there is 1 other 33 and 3 34's in the UK.

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We made a buck for the corners from 1/2 inch aluminum and freehanded second pieces to form the return into the wheelhouse. I had a valance to guide my production of the back panel. A economical shrinker is needed as you can see there is a lot of curve in the panel that meets the valance. Also I tacked 1/4" round stock in the shape I needed to form to. To solve the drain problem I attached 1" square tubing to the rain gutter and extended it through the trunk floor to afford controlled drainage. I have more pictures if you would find them helpfull. There wasn't much left of this car when I started and I don't pretend to think it is being restored. This is a resurrection. I have another car I have been taking paterns from.

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Thanks for the reply Lynn, I'm fortunate in the fact that my repair is below the recessed bead therefore the panel will be conical into the 1/4" rad. I have most the tools to do the job, stretcher/shrinker a part built wheel etc. What I do need is the dimension as in Pic 6 or from the bottom of the gas tank hole down to the end of the 1/4" Rad. Your angled edge to the rad in Pic 1 looks quite different to my Pic 3 ??

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  • 1 month later...

Need more advice on what the shape should be where the back panel meets the rear valance

In the process of shaping a panel to go across the bottom of the rear panel, pic 1 is looking across the back with the rear valance in place which has a curve that will join the trunk floor pan. Above that is the rear panel with the lower 2" missing.

Question 1 :- Across the back panel does the rad increase towards the bottom or is it constant (its got a 3/4" bow at the top) Chris (1935EB) mentioned a wedge shaped bracket that goes between the floor pan and the back panel.

Question 2 :- If the back panel is constant, does the bottom curve backwards to meet the valance as in pic 2.

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Thanks for looking.

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  • 1 month later...

With the problem of rain water running of the trunk lid should there be a rain collector within the trunk? Some sort of gutter between the curved side rails with an outlet pipe to carry water through the floor to the outside. Remember we are talking Rumble seat Coupe.

Any ideas and photos if a standard part exists. Thanks for your help.

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  • 5 months later...

​The rear section of the trunk floor pan is almost ready to fit but does anyone know how the originals were attached, mine was removed by the previous owner. This panel goes behind the seat fixing, were they continuous welded, spot welded or screwed? Also what is the round hole for and does that have a cover plate?

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The gas tank valance bolts through the back return, the original pan is in post #1 photo 2

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Edited by TomP (see edit history)
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As you can see in the photos above there is a cover that goes on the round hole. That hole is to access the gas tank sending unit I believe.

​The rear section of the trunk floor pan is almost ready to fit but does anyone know how the originals were attached, mine was removed by the previous owner. This panel goes behind the seat fixing, were they continuous welded, spot welded or screwed? Also what is the round hole for and does that have a cover plate?

[ATTACH=CONFIG]240052[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]240053[/ATTACH]

The gas tank valance bolts through the back return, the original pan is in post #1 photo 2

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Hi Tom, The Body has a 1" flange which the floor pan (gas tank Valance) above the gas tank rests in. I can not find any welds but it could be spot welded in. The floor pan (gas tank Valance) has press nuts in it which is used to hold the bottom back pan which is under the luggage rack on. Make sure the hols line up. I will try to get more photos soon, I am having problems with my camera I need a new battery. Erick

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Hi Guys, just uncovered 3 holes 5/32" Ø these are on the rear panel just below the opening of the Rumble Seat. Has anyone have ideas of what should go there??

post-72422-143142460992_thumb.jpg The car is fitted with Dual Side Mounts and a Luggage Rack.

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Unfortunately very few of my photos show that part of a car and my memory is not the greatest. That said, I don't think anything goes there. . . Could some previous owner have put a license plate bracket there? Spacing of the holes would be about right for that.

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These holes have the appearance of punched rather than drilled and inside they are not easy to run a nut on because of the cross brace, had there been 4, I would have guessed they might have been for emblems, vertical for Plymouth, horizontal for the Dodge Wings. Perhaps some one else will know, Thanks Mr T

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  • 4 weeks later...

Currently making a replacement toe board, this being RHD handed spare are few and far between. Can you conform the arrangement of the hand brake lever?? The first photo is of a LHD toe board, notice the cutout for the parking brake lever is to the right of the gear lever. Pic 2 is my RHD pedal box. What I have done is to mirror the toe board photo to get what I want (work from the right remembering it is a left hooker) but am I right in thinking I don't need to flip the parking brake slot.

post-72422-143142501985_thumb.jpg If you look closely you can just about make out the pencil lines for the P brake cutout. Thanks for looking.

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Edited by TomP (see edit history)
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Currently making a replacement toe board, this being RHD handed spare are few and far between. Can you conform the arrangement of the hand brake lever?? . . .

The photos did not come through for me. But looking at the hand brake (parts book calls it that rather than parking brake) I don't see any separate call outs for R.H.D. so I think that the lever stays on the right of the shift. Thinking about how the brake itself is setup, if they swapped sides on the lever they'd have to have made a bunch of changes on the brake itself and I am sure those would have shown up in the parts book.

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The photos did not come through for me. But looking at the hand brake (parts book calls it that rather than parking brake) I don't see any separate call outs for R.H.D. so I think that the lever stays on the right of the shift. Thinking about how the brake itself is setup, if they swapped sides on the lever they'd have to have made a bunch of changes on the brake itself and I am sure those would have shown up in the parts book.

Hi Tom, My 1933 does not have any holes there. Erick

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. . .

[ATTACH=CONFIG]246856[/ATTACH] . . .

Your photos come through for me now.

Interesting setup here. If I recall correctly, on my PD the hand brake handle mounts to the two bolts that are at an angle on the frame cross member. You can see them about half way between the transmission and the pedal assembly. Looks like your hand brake lever is mounted to the transmission itself. I guess I'll have to crawl under the car later today to see if my memory is correct.

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I think the hand brake is identical to yours, not sure how much room there will be to press the starter pedal with the hand brake lever between your legs. It looks like the throttle linkage has been modified, some more RHD photos for your reference.

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  • 3 weeks later...

So that's the toe board as close to finished apart from the fixing holes, also made-up a cover to go over the diff inspection hole, got a feeling these were either leather or waxed canvas on the originals and that the steel covers didn't come in until later but sure I'll be told it's wrong.

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  • 1 month later...

Hi Tom,

i hope your project is going well. Any chance you could measure the hole dimensions and placement for the trunk rack on the gas tank cover?

thanks,

mike

Need more advice on what the shape should be where the back panel meets the rear valance

In the process of shaping a panel to go across the bottom of the rear panel, pic 1 is looking across the back with the rear valance in place which has a curve that will join the trunk floor pan. Above that is the rear panel with the lower 2" missing.

Question 1 :- Across the back panel does the rad increase towards the bottom or is it constant (its got a 3/4" bow at the top) Chris (1935EB) mentioned a wedge shaped bracket that goes between the floor pan and the back panel.

Question 2 :- If the back panel is constant, does the bottom curve backwards to meet the valance as in pic 2.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]207889[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]207890[/ATTACH]

Thanks for looking.

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Yes the cover was dark colored,green or brown, duck. The same smelly stuff used in old WWII surplus army tents (if you were ever in the cadets or the reserves). It was not drawn tight across the hole. It was 'loose' so the differential top could poke into it if the car ever bottomed out that far. They must of beat the hell out of their test cars to produce that much travel of the rear axle. Under normal street driving conditions you cannot make the rear end of the car sit down that far. The cloth was held on by a metal ring with several bolts or screws around it's circumference. So replacing it is more a matter of authenticity than something that the car will use.

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Hi Tom,

i hope your project is going well. Any chance you could measure the hole dimensions and placement for the trunk rack on the gas tank cover?

thanks,

mike

All going forward Mike, think this is what you want if not come back, no problem

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Edited by TomP (see edit history)
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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi Tom,

Thanks for the dimensions. Please clarify;

1) are the edges "rolled inwards" on the sheetmetal holes or just straight cut

2) I see the distances between the holes and the size of the holes, but need dimensions from one end to the hole or the centerline of the piece to each hole

3) also the picture #5 shows the dimension of the hole is 3.75 inches from the top reveal (bend) to the bottom of the hole? correct?

4) Have you found anyone who makes the rubber grommets for the coupe trunk rack brackets?

Thanks for your help.

Mike

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Hi Mike

1. Straight cut edges.

2. 21" between holes, 27" to outside giving a hole of 3", in fact they are 3" square.

3. The hole starts 3/4" below the bend where the weather strip goes between the body and the valance.

4. Suggest you look on first decade to see if ply33 list a supplier, some body must do them??

Hope that clears the muddy water.

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Hi Mike

1. Straight cut edges.

2. 21" between holes, 27" to outside giving a hole of 3", in fact they are 3" square.

3. The hole starts 3/4" below the bend where the weather strip goes between the body and the valance.

4. Suggest you look on first decade to see if ply33 list a supplier, some body must do them??

Hope that clears the muddy water.

Hi Mike, I cannot find anyone who makes the rubber rack grommet. I would like to find an old used one to have remade. Or if someone could cast a silicone / rubber mold around an old one that might work. I have a compression mold machine and a machine shop, so I would like to try to make them. Also could make a solid model and get a 3D print / prototype of one. It seems that several people are working on coupes with the side mounts and rear luggage rack. Erick
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I'm a retired tool maker, did it for 40+ yrs, on this grommet there is a massive undercut which would mean the mould would have to be slit and have a removable loose piece. Then of course they are handed so you would need 2 moulds and then there's the material although it is rubber based it has what looks like glass fibre strands, a material I have not seen before. It may be worth while contacting the company that 1935EB used to have his vulcanised rubber mounts remade by.

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Must apologise for the Senior moment in the post above, the mentioned undercut is not on the grommet, it is produced when the grommet is fitted to the main bracket on assembly, in fact it is possible to split the grommet should you try to remove it from the bracket. Regarding the type of material on cleaning the surface I found that at some time a mixture of rubber and fibreglass mating had been laid-up to reinforce the degrading material underneath.

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  • 4 weeks later...

That is a rear trunk ('boot' to y'all) emblem from about a '37. Note that it says 'CORP' instead of 'MOTORS'. Use of 'CHRYSLER CORP PRODUCT' did not appear until 35 on Plymouth emblems. Might look nice but not correct for your 33. I think I agree with the prior posts to the effect that those holes were probably there from a later added license plate. Or maybe somebody put a 37 emblem on there, who knows at this point. SMB

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