Wooden Corner Ideas on '28 Sedan?

[fozz71]

Fellow Dodge Brothers,

I am working on rewooding the interior for a 1928 Victory Six- my rear winow is all framed in and set. Does anyone have any ideas as to how the corners get set in? Is there a source for steam-bent wood or I am open to how others have done this....

Thanks,

Jim

[Guest 1930]

I can show you almost as many 29/30 Dodge DA original interior shots as you may want but I do not know if the wood structure would be the same.

[fozz71]

This is my first late 20's sedan so I'll take as many ideas as I can get...

Thanks,

Jim

[keiser31]

Those pieces are usually finger jointed, not steam bent. Here are some illustrations from the Fisher Body Service Manual which, of course will be different than yours, but may give you an idea as to what may be involved....maybe someone with a Victory Six can give you dimensions of the pieces needed.

Edited June 29, 2013 by keiser31 (see edit history)

[fozz71]

I see they are indeed fingered together- but my question is acessability to wood for the curve. I don't have the saw to take a large 4x4 and cut a gradual curve as the Fisher manual shows, so I am trying to get a feel for how to replicate this awkward piece tucked up in that corner. I can get straight cuts all day long but that gentle "c" shape is elusive.

Thanks for the manual images- very helpful for the other stuff as well~!

Cheers,

Jim

[Guest 1930]

I am not positive too say what parts were steam bent and which parts were cut to the correct contours, I can say that some of the wood was laminated within a jig that had the smaller sections set up to the correct bends or curves, I hope you get my meaning, if not let me re-explain.

I also know that much of the work or cuts were done on scroll saw type cutters for lack of a better term, with a large scroll saw with a deep throat. You could cut quite a tight S out of a 2x4 if need be with this saw.

I will look and see what pictures I have and post them tomm. of that rear section

[fozz71]

I understand what you are saying- scroll saws are handy and can do amazingly intricate cuts. If I still had one- it may have come in handy right about now. Thanks for looking for the wooding pics. Much appreciated- this is all new turf for me.

[Guest DodgeKCL]

I would not try to get into steam bending even if that's how it was originally. I believe the wood in this area only serves as an upholstery tack strip? with some of it holding the garnish moulding. No one will ever see it again so I would,and have done,just cut out the 4 corners with a jig saw and make 1" overlapping ship joints to join the 4 corners to the 4 straight pieces. You don't even have to worry about finish. You can even use a good grade of house building lumber as no real strength is required. I would use Permatex 66C clear RTV glue to hold everything to the body metal and carpenter's glue to hold the lap joints together. This should end up giving you a sturdy framing for the moulding and upholstery. I used to think the way you do but found even the big time restorers don't steam bend anything. They just cut and join. It's faster,no one will see it and the synthetic glues today,unlike the old horse glues,will never come apart. And are waterproof when dry. Something the old glues were not.

[Guest 1930]

I would not try to get into steam bending even if that's how it was originally. I believe the wood in this area only serves as an upholstery tack strip? with some of it holding the garnish moulding. No one will ever see it again so I would,and have done,just cut out the 4 corners with a jig saw and make 1" overlapping ship joints to join the 4 corners to the 4 straight pieces. You don't even have to worry about finish. You can even use a good grade of house building lumber as no real strength is required. I would use Permatex 66C clear RTV glue to hold everything to the body metal and carpenter's glue to hold the lap joints together. This should end up giving you a sturdy framing for the moulding and upholstery. I used to think the way you do but found even the big time restorers don't steam bend anything. They just cut and join. It's faster,no one will see it and the synthetic glues today,unlike the old horse glues,will never come apart. And are waterproof when dry. Something the old glues were not.

Yes you are correct, it is only for upholstery tack strip

[Guest 1930]

Looking for a better picture but here is a start, I am assuming that a picture with the cloth removed in this area is what you are after?

[Guest 1930]

Here is a continuation of the wood as it wraps the corner and blends in with the quarter glass, are these the shots you are looking for?

[Guest 1930]

This one may be a little clearer

[Guest 1930]

Try these

[Guest 1930]

Maybe something here will tickle your fancy