BearsFan315

1929 Chevrolet International - 4 Door Sedan Project

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4 minutes ago, Bloo said:

These parts will be white?

 

no , they will be black, have the urethane dye only 10 drops per 3 oz of urethane for opaque

 

'test pour, this was for pour testing only, see how it mixes, how it pours, cures, etc....'

 

also allows me to see the 3d inset and validate if it is fully encapsulated !!

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Benefits of AACA Membership.

not sure if i noted it before but there is a scribe line in the mold and it shows clearly in the finished part. this shows clearly where to cut the rubber to go around the shaft. without this it would be a guessing game. 

 

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you can see the scribe line on the right side of the urethane part, right at the quadrant of the cut out.

 

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close up of the scribe line. 

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well decided to go into production this morning and build complete finalized urethane parts !!

 

set up my four molds to pour, then applied sealed/release to each mold. this is a 45 minute process at minimum. then onto mixing urethane 3 parts, because adding in dye. mixed everything up, then combined and mixed, then on to pour...  well i learned that dues to a short pot life approx 4-5 minutes i can only really pour 2.5 molds in that time frame, pours have to be slow and steady stream to ensure air is out !!  once i his the third one it started to thicken and slow down... not to mention the cup was mighty warm, love chemical reactions !!

 

at least i got 2 poured, when i get home will break them open, and clean up the half pour, and prep for another pour. moving forward i will set up 4 molds.  then mix and pour 2 molds then mix and pour the other 2. only gonna mix urethane for 2 pours at a time so i have plenty of time to pour and set. then start on the next batch of 2.

 

this is all a learning experience. learning as i go !! frustrating & fun all at the same time

 

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4 molds all set up and ready for pour

 

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urethane for 4 mold pour

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Posted (edited)

ok so got home and busted open the molds, well 3 anyways, 2 were complete and whole and i knew the third was a partial since the material was hot and solidifying as i poured. but it turned out pretty cool... i will strip off the urethane and then clean up the inset and reuse it on another set. but allows me to see how opaque the mix is and if i need to adjust it, but look pitch black through, no light transition! it takes 48 hours for the urethane to cure, so it is semi pliable and easily removed at this stage. once it cures, lol have fun !! they were not joking when they said urethane will stick to about anything. but the release compound i have is working great !!

 

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mold split in half, and pedal seal ready to be removed

 

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pedal seal removed, straight from mold, no cleaning

 

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mold 3 where material began to solidify, you can see where material never made it all the way to the bottom. 

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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set up and did pour two... mixed up enough batch for 2 seals (1 set) poured that then mixed another batch and poured that. worked great, the time it takes works perfect with the material mix !!

 

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here is batch 2, plus a spare mold for a test i am doing... that is Mold 5 (back-up) top right next to minion cup

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prepped all the parts for molding...

each inset is sanded and roughed up to help urethane stick and adhere to it, even though it really does not need it. then they are cleaned rubbing alcohol/brake clean to remove any and all contaminants. i only tough them with gloves on to install them and handle them from the container i store them in now.

i mark my mixing cups, A, and B as to NOT mix them up. also you only add dye to part B, then mix B to A, a specific process and i follow the instructions. each cup is cleaned out with rubbing alcohol to remove any contaminants. also it is mixed 1:1 so i mark the cups at 15ml for quick reference when pouring. as time is essential. 

use popsicle sticks for stirring, and mark them A & B so i can mix up and stir parts, and NOT contaminate bt them. one use and toss em. got plenty around. i cut one end off so it is flat to allow me to scrape hte bottom of hte cups which is flat, and to scrape the walls to ensure thorough mixing and pouring. 

it is a tedious process and i am following it thoroughly. it works so i keep on moving as directed...

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got up this morning and took a look at the pour i did last night, and all four came out great. nice and solid, completely covered, and ready for clean up. so will move forward using the same process, 2x2 set up four molds, mix & pour 2, mix and pour 2, then let sit for 4+ hours, then remove and let cure for 48+ hours. figure can do 4 sets a day if i have the time. 

 

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molds opened up, black urethane on black PLA is kinda hard to see, but look at the funnel area

 

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all four seals removed

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batch 3 done and done

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molds opened up

 

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seals removed

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Batch four has been poured, and will cure overnight, then remove that batch

 

prep and pour batch 5 in the morning if all goes well... only 2 more batches to pour and then out of materials... mainly metal insets !! should have enough urethane to complete all sets with a tad to spare.

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Friday morning update....

 

have 6 1/2 sets complete, should be able to make another 3 1/2  sets to get me 10 total sets.

 

I have randomly takes 1 seal here or there and torn them apart and validated cure at various stages, 6 hours, 12 hours, 24 hours, 48 hours look at how it is curing, adhering to the metal inset, etc...  looking good so far. up until 48+ hours they are still gooey in the middle. and the longer it sits the stickier it gets. but after 48 hours they look good, solid. the metal inset provides a nice backbone to support and hold the shape. with no inset i can fold the urethane on itself and not tear or rip. do not recommend trying, but i did it as a test. with a metal inset it will hold the shape you bend it to until the metal fatigues. the chamfer works for slotted flat head screws. since the seal is universal and flips for left or right.

 

once i get them all past 3 days cure i will trim them up and then cut the slit based on the scribe.

 

 

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These are awesome! Makes me want to get a 3D printer.

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well all 10 sets are molded and curing...

 

decided to do a test and clean up a set, earlier set.  i removed the flash & funnel by using a razor blade. then went back and used my dremel with a small sanding wheel to see if i could clean up the edges a little. then tried to see if i could sand a flat face to remove the grooves from the mold, and it came out nice and smooth. takes a few minutes of sanding but you can make them smooth. it does remove the sheen. but still looks like black urethane :)

 

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majority of flash removed along with funnel

 

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outside edge sanded

 

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inside edge sanded 

 

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front face sanded smooth

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had a little extra urethane so poured that into the molds without the insets !! so these are solid urethane seals NO metal inset...

 

 

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Posted (edited)

here is a good comparison...

 

one is the 3d printed model where i started when making the mold for the seals, the other one is the completed poured urethane seal with metal inset. amazing that the end results looks very much like the designed 3d printed model i started with. guess i can call that success !! the urethane one you can see the metal inset around the screw hole. 

 

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Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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Posted (edited)

well everything is poured, and almost cured...  this weekend i will finish cleaning up all the flash, and put the slit in each one. this will complete the pedal seals !!  I plan to install one in my 1929 when it goes back together and then offer the rest up to anyone interested. know these are general reproductions and may not directly reflect the original seals in the 1929. I did my best with the help of others to recreate them as close as possible. if you prefer a smooth overall finish you can lightly sand the urethane to get the desired effect, just know that sanding will remove the sheen on the urethane. these seals are pretty durable but not sure what they can stand in way of abuse, use, and chemicals. i plan to use my as normal and see what happens. there will be no warranty or anything of the sorts. as is how is. 

 

I am ONLY asking for material costs, not trying to make any money but since i went through the exercise to create a set thought i would create a few extras so if anyone else was interested in a set, they could get one. 

 

I have several reproduced with the metal insets as provided by Chevrolet (they are semi rigid and less flexible) asking $30 per set plus shipping

I have only a few reproduced with NO metal insets (solid urethane) pretty flexible asking $20 per set plus shipping

both LOOK exactly the same on the outside except the metal inset inside.

 

they should be ready to ship starting monday, interested send me a PM and inquire.

 

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1929 Chevrolet Pedal Seals sets with Metal Insets

 

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1929 Chevrolet Pedal Seals sets Solid Urethane NO Metal Insets

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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