BearsFan315

1929 Chevrolet International - 4 Door Sedan Project

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well since it was a quiet day today, not much going on... government got us all on restriction

i lined up and then drilled out the pin hole to .1875" (3/16") this is the next size ready available pin. I ordered a package of 1095 steel 3/16" spring pins, since they are .187-.192" and should be a nice press fit and hold everything together.20200426_193052.thumb.jpg.5fde66b990ff9247f2781b356adaf629.jpg

fresh drilled and cleaned up shaft pin hole

 

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rotary head all drilled and cleaned up

 

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Nice job! I like it! I have a question too. Do you know where do I may get center medallions for front and rear bumper? I have rest of the parts only missing medallions. Thank You

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Posted (edited)
15 hours ago, Jllu said:

Nice job! I like it! I have a question too. Do you know where do I may get center medallions for front and rear bumper? I have rest of the parts only

missing medallions. Thank You

Check with

Gary Wallace in Missouri
.....Website:Early Chevrolet Parts
.....Phone:(314) 293-1991

 

I got my new cap bolts and end bolts from him, and when talking to him he had replacement medallions. 3 on front, 2 small (1 on left, one on right) and 1 large in center, has lips on the top and bottom where it extends past the top/bottom of bumper to hold. uses bolts, large washers and nuts to secure to bumper. Only 1 medallion on rear bumper, per side. (1 left & 1 right). both have ridges on the backside to slide and hold in bumper grooves. also has special bracket to hold them on plus bolt, washer, nut.

think in total 3 different medallions.

I got my chrome carriage bolts from Allen's Fasteners cheaper than anyone else & quick shipping !!

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)

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thinking about it this morning, i should be able to test the pumps without the engine ? figure using my priming tool and 12v drill like normal. just use a small container, fill with a quart or so of oil, then stick in the suction tube, route the discharge tube back into the container, to cycle the oil. then pull trigger on drill and pump should suck and move oil ?!?

 

is this logical and make sense ?? maybe use some scrap wood to build a stand to make it easier vs trying to hold everything :)

think i will try this in the next day or two time permitting. 

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well got a text from the guy at the machine shop a week or so ago, and he said he was making progress. looks like they were doing the line bore :)

 

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Posted (edited)

thought i would post a few pictures of the completed oil pump for my 1929

 

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Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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here are a few of the spare oil pump i did as well.

 

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i really wanted to test the pump before installing it on the car and then find out it does not work. so i came up with a test platform to test it :)

cost me $0 and took me about 15 minutes to set up. used some scrap wood i had lying around in the scrap pile and used a 1x6 and drilled a 1" hole in the center, then sanded it out until the oil pump would slide it with a tight fit. used my foil pan 8x8 that i sue to change the oil in my generator as the oil pan reservoir.  grabbed some scrap 2x4's out hte pile and stacked them up until the oil pump suction tube barely was above the foil pan. (no oil yet) then used 2 scrap 2x4 wedges to angle the foil pan for quick oil return to suction. sued a scrap piece of tubing i had laying around, as i wanted to be able to SEE the oil coming out of the pump discharge. found a piece that fit snug on the threads on the discharge tube connector. did a dry run of oil pump, i use my 12v cordless drill to do this, same one i sue to prime the pump when on the car. Low is 400 RPM and high is 1200 rpm so well with in the range of the car itself !! no over driving the pump by any means. made sure everything moved freely, everything was set and workable. poured in a quart of fresh oil in the pan, used the wedges to keep the pool of oil at the pump suction (one corner of the foil pan) then adjusted the pump so it was a tad above the bottom of the foil pan. and away we went, i held onto the pump the first few spins to make sure it did not airplane propeller on me !! took a few seconds and then primed right up and away we went. had a nice steady stream of oil coming out of the pump.  I was really surprised at how much oil it actually pumps, the flow was crazy.  

 

Yeah i know my setup was primitive, BUT it served its purpose and the pump works !!  so i bagged it and tagged it to go back in the engine when it returns !!

 

I also tested the spare i built and same results, so i am happy.

 

20200508_195638.thumb.jpg.43d8dc11c36422accde95541d35ff319.jpg

Primitive Oil Pump Test Stand :)

 

 

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also shot a few videos...

 

Here is basic test on LOW @ 400 RPM

 

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Posted (edited)

Here is same basic test on LOW @ 400 RPM but with close up of oil coming out of tube

 

 

 

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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Very nice. Good test

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Posted (edited)

i did shoot a high 1200 rpm video during my test, here it is:

 

 

can see the oil pump start to turn with the rotation near the end, but no mess :)

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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Talked about this a few times, and I am now going to venture into fabricating a mold and trying to have some reproduced. Not sure what they are Technically called per the MPPL ? or the part number.

I looked back through my pictures and found a shop from the PO that shows the Pedal Seals. but i can NOT find them anywhere in my stash. luckily beachbum graciously provided a picture he had as well. since i am waiting on my engine to get back from the shop, and not much else on the car to rebuild right now, figured i would try this out.

My plan is to sketch them out, then 3d print one and do a test fit, hopefully get the shape and concept down and then will get a mold made and then have a few sets produced.

Have a few questions, since i can not find my set, really need to get some dimensions and general data about them.

1-were these 1929 only or other years as well ??

2-left and right the same, just mirror images or two totally different designs??

3-they look to be made of a rubber, are they soft (floppy soft like silicone), hard (not very pliable), or medium (like a standard rubber window gasket)??

4-seem to have a metal plate inside, is this a SOLID metal plate, or a wire mesh of the sorts ?? how thick the the metal ? is it one piece of metal or a few sheets with separation/rubber in between.

5-how much robber overrun is there on the metal. how much robber after the metal.

6-dimensions dimensions, dimensions... basic opening, size, shape, corners.

7-looks like 10-24 bolts were used to hold them in, or were they 1/4-20 ?? looks to be flat head slotted, assume they go all the way through with a washer and nut on the backside. and they go through the upper and lower plates on the toe/floor boards.

assume they do NOT seal the hole, but more so fill it in some, did the rubber touch the pedals ?? was slot basically the same size and shape that the upper& lower plates leave when put together ??

any other details, information would be appreciated. also if anyone is already making these or know someone who is, let me know !! i would like a set or two.

 

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did a sketch based off the pictures i have, and digitizing the upper & lower pedal plates.

i then 3d printed a prototype out, printed one with a larger opening, as i was uncertain if the PLA (material i am 3d printing) would snap when i tried to flex it around a pedal shaft. luckily it did not, so i marked it up drilled a few holes, and seems to fit pretty nice on the plates. the white area is where the seal is smaller than the opening of the plates.

i am happy with my first prototype, once i can get true dimensions from someone with one in hand, i can adjust accordingly. they  are currently scaled off the pictures.

i want to make sure i keep some meat (material) between the openings, and considering there is a metal plate in there as well, need to make sure there is rubber all around the metal as well to cover and coat it. want the metal fully encapsulated in rubber, so the pedals rub on rubber if they rub.
 

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both prototypes side by side

 

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finished prototype with holes located and drilled

 

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prototype laid over the upper and lower pedal plates

 

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close up

 

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prototype under the plates to show difference in opening, plates vs prototype

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Looking good! Do they go on top or underneath? Is there something on the pedal shaft itself that seals the holes when the pedals are up?

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Posted (edited)

Did some digging in the MPPL and found it !! thanks for the hints VCCA Member beachbum 😛 did some random searches for 3 digits the 194 found it

 

looks like it was a 1929 year only thing, it is listed in my 1929, 1929-1930, and 1929-1932 MPPL but only for the 1929

 

Plate, Toe Board Pedal (Rubber)............................356194
Flat Head Stove Bolt with Nut (No. 10x5/8")........107768
Plain Washer (3/16")..............................................106260
Lockwasher (No. 10)..............................................106497

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)

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14 minutes ago, Bloo said:

Looking good! Do they go on top or underneath? Is there something on the pedal shaft itself that seals the holes when the pedals are up?

 

they would go on top...

nothing that i know of on the pedal shaft, but a good thought

 

sad thing is there are very few people that actually have these on there car, most were destroyed, removed, lost, etc....

i was thinking about making a true repro set, then a modified set, that looks the same but fill in the open section with a thin rubber, and have a slit in it, so the shaft slides int eh slit, closing it off a little more.

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Great job Gerry. We have to make things like this when they’re not available. It’s one of the most satisfying things when you make a reproduction part that one one has. The crazy thing is when you offer it to others, they’ll buy a pair as long as they’re free and you pay the shipping to them! Joe and I have discovered this with all the Olds parts we have reproduced. Hard to understand some guys in this hobby.

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On 5/14/2020 at 8:26 PM, chistech said:

Great job Gerry. We have to make things like this when they’re not available. It’s one of the most satisfying things when you make a reproduction part that one one has. The crazy thing is when you offer it to others, they’ll buy a pair as long as they’re free and you pay the shipping to them! Joe and I have discovered this with all the Olds parts we have reproduced. Hard to understand some guys in this hobby.

Pretty common issues.  There is a flip side of the coin too - I had a fellow call me regarding making a part and I said probably a good seller and he asked me what I thought people would pay and I said 600 to 650.  He said he wanted to recover his costs and he could probably swing 1,400 or so.  Well, I had the priced priced out a couple years back for 750 and thought that too high.  When I suggested working with my contacts there were 100 excuses.   Bottom line is the part will probably will not get made - and that is unfortunate. 

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22 hours ago, John_Mereness said:

Pretty common issues.  There is a flip side of the coin too - I had a fellow call me regarding making a part and I said probably a good seller and he asked me what I thought people would pay and I said 600 to 650.  He said he wanted to recover his costs and he could probably swing 1,400 or so.  Well, I had the priced priced out a couple years back for 750 and thought that too high.  When I suggested working with my contacts there were 100 excuses.   Bottom line is the part will probably will not get made - and that is unfortunate. 

Had a gentleman contact me because he had seen the mold we had made for the 32’ Olds. He mentioned that there were Many people who wanted the part that he wanted to mold. I explained the costs associated with making a mold and suggested that he get at least four of the many people And have them all invest equal amounts into the project. Of course I’ve never heard back so it’s easy to assume the “many” probably ended up being only the person who inquired. Once people realized the cost and investment they all of a sudden don’t need the part that badly.

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just to share, here is the latest concept 1929 Pedal Seal Prototype D.1

using the photos provided as well as input back from cabboy think we have narrowed down the shape, based on the metal inset he cut out, and the rubber shape overall.

the metal plate is sealed and embedded in the rubber, and is not present where the cut will go (the slit in the top) looks like a large offset "C"
seems both the left and right are the same piece, as they are chamfered on both sides, so you just flip it over.

feedback, questions, thoughts are welcome...

i am going to try and do a 3d print of the metal inset tonight and test fit on my 1929, as well as print out a full size seal (as seen below) for fitment and spacing.

 

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3d CAD of Protoype D.1 Top Side

 

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3d CAD of Protoype D.1 Bottom Side

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ok, so did a 3d print of the inset of Pedal Seal Prototype D.1

 

came out pretty nice 1/32" thick, same as steel inset

 

holes line up, and it mates up to both the rubber outside and the pedal plates

 

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also did a 3d print of the rubber of Pedal Seal Prototype D.1

 

came out pretty nice .26" thick, same as measured on current rubber sample

 

holes line up, and it mates up to both the metal inset outside and the pedal plates

 

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did a test fit of a standard #10 flat head slotted screw, which is what holds this to the pedal plates

 

the chamfer is dead on, the screw head sits flush with the top of the rubber

 

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