BearsFan315

1929 Chevrolet International - 4 Door Sedan Project

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well started looking at the oil pump that came on the car

looks really clean in my opinion, and very little surface wear on any of the internal walls and inside face of the cover.

assume the gasket is super thin ? as it looks to be there but caked to the pump. maybe 1/64 or so ?

 

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some shots of the inside of the cover as well as the vanes and guts...

 

 

 

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Both pumps Jerry have a ton of vane on them and show a small contact area where they meet the side wall of the housing. They are virtually in like new condition. As a vane wears, that contact area becomes eventually the full width of the vane, that’s when it’s replacement time. I would simply check the housing sidewalls for any rust and remove it with fine paper. I’ve also put fine wet dry paper on a true surface and lapped the covers if any wear is present. The vane pumps work great and simply moves the oil quickly like any vane pump does. I believe only the center main is pressurized to any degree and the others simply rely on quick volume delivery to the connecting rod troughs or sumps at the font/rear mains so the vane pumps are fine if not the best for the early motors. With today’s oils, babbit issues are almost a thing of the past when a motor has been rebuilt. Adding to the longevity is better materials, crank/rod/piston balancing, and aluminum pistons. Your original oil pump will be just fine. 
    I did put a gear pump in my 31’ rebuild but that was because two vane pumps I had were shot and I got a gear pump kit for $60! It does give slightly more pressure but a lot needs to be said about having a fresh motor with tighter center main too. 

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Posted (edited)

tore down the two pumps a little further today. 

on the original one, the shaft and the end that is held in by a pin is sloppy ?!? has a few degrees of free rotation, i can hold the end and turn the shaft a little bit before the end turns, and i can push/pull the shaft about a 1/16" or so before it engages and pushes/pulls the end. not sure how much play there should be in either direction.

 

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Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)

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this is the connection (shaft and end) i was referring to in previous post that is pinned together

 

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Posted (edited)

put all the pieces for the original in the parts cleaner for now and will let it soak and clean for the night, then check it all over.

 

then do the same for the spare.

 

may take the best parts and build one pump, and then build a spare from the remnants for emergency or spare parts down the road.

 

can i just drive out that pin and pull the end off the shaft ?? then check for oblong/worn out hole ?? then could i drill it out and put in an over sized pin or what other options could i use ?? remove pin then drill housing and shaft 90 degrees out from existing pins & hole and put in a new pin same size as now ??

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)

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Posted (edited)

well got the original pump all cleaned up and completely disassembled 

 

the pin holding the end on the shaft is shot, can not believe how worn out it is, but again it is 90 years old !!

 

cleaning and soaking the spare pump now, then will do the same for it

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Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)

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I have found many of those pins in exactly the same condition. I suppose that was really the cause of failure on the oil pump. I've never seen one with vanes so bad they wouldn't still work.

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well got the spare pump all cleaned up and completely disassembled 

 

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ok, know it has been a while, but i broke out the 3d printer and have been running it 24 hours a day printing face shield brackets for the local makerspace that is doing them for local hospitals and medical facilities.

i found my log that i did a while back and decided to paint it up....

first a layer of white....

 

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gonna see if i have any gray or silver around to trim up the black so it looks like the emblem on the car... worst case i can mix some black and white to make my own gray :)

see how the works

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The experience I had with my 29 coupe was. When I finally got it going and somewhat dependable, near our house the main way home had us going down a hill and turning right onto an uphill. After the corner going uphill it would hammer for about 300 feet. I would have to take it real easy until it would refill whatever reservoir had emptied out and stop knocking. This was in a residential area so we were only going 20 to 25 mph. The assumption was it was one of the main bearings. I put a 30 to 32 pump in there drilled out the block to 1/4" pipe from the 1/8th inch original and didn't have any more problems until the valves gave out about 5 years later. The 29 pump is one of the few hold over parts from 28 but has 2 more rod sumps to keep full. Maybe the original 29 pump will work fine for the area you drive in. Art

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question on replacing the worn pin in the oil pump...
...original pin measures out to approx .156 dia
...pin hole in housing measures about .155 dia
...pin hole in shaft measures .175 dia

should i
1-just replace the pin with a .156 dia and continue on, pin will press into the housing and slide through the shaft
2-line up and bore the holes to match and go up a size in the pin ??

seems like the pin fits in the housing as a press fit and a clearance fit int eh shaft, hence the wear on the pin from the free movement. shaft pins then hits pin and turn housing/vanes. it is this way on both the pumps i have torn down on the bench.

OD of the shaft is .488 whereas the ID of the housing for the shaft is .500

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54 minutes ago, BearsFan315 said:

should i
1-just replace the pin with a .156 dia and continue on, pin will press into the housing and slide through the shaft
2-line up and bore the holes to match and go up a size in the pin ??

seems like the pin fits in the housing as a press fit and a clearance fit int eh shaft, hence the wear on the pin from the free movement. shaft pins then hits pin and turn housing/vanes. it is this way on both the pumps i have torn down on the bench.
 

 

I'm not a machinist, but your reasoning is sound. I would take it to your machinist. Seems like bore the housing to just under .175 so it's a tight clearance in the pump shaft and a mild press fit into the housing.

 

...or...

 

Retrofit a '30-32 pump and not have to worry about damaging your new engine! Just my 2 cents. Good luck Jerry!

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Friday spent the evening finishing up my 3d Printed 1+929 Chevrolet Logo.

 

used a gray i had laying around to do the raised section to make it look more like the emblem on the car. then after it dried saturday morning went back and touched up the paint all around.

 

have to say that is came out pretty good. i am happy with it. 

 

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Posted (edited)
On 4/7/2020 at 7:57 PM, BearsFan315 said:

then the blue in the ribs...

 

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For your runningboard mats, floor mat, or grill  ? 

Edited by John_Mereness (see edit history)

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BearsFan315, really nice work on the emblem. It is amazing what can be done with a 3D printer. John

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Posted (edited)
9 hours ago, John_Mereness said:

For your runningboard mats, floor mat, or grill  ? 

not sure what i am going to do with it, sjut something i did up in CAD then 3d printed in black, decided to paint it up to match the radiator emblem. came out nice, may put it up on my wall or desk, it is only about 5 1/4" tall

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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looking it over, need to go back and paint the CHEVROLET letters white to be more precise :)

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