BearsFan315

1929 Chevrolet International - 4 Door Sedan Project

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then found this gasket set i picked up somewhere...

know the 4 pieces are shims, 2 thin, 2 thicker, then the cork ball seal, o-ring to replace the cork in the mushroom, but not certain on the application of the lip seal ?!?!  it is 1.00 id and 1.500 od.

 

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Jerry, just thought, did you check the upper torque tube bushing? While you have the transmission out, it’s a good time to check it.

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I'm guessing it is seal at the front of the driveshaft? Any markings on it?

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They might put that down the driveshaft on top of the bushing to prevent oil in the unjoint from going down the torque tube. Check the torque tube I.d. And the shaft o.d.

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will do , which bushing you referring to ?? upper torque tube ??

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also cleaned up the speedo gear and parts that go in the u joint housing...

 

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I’m going to say it again, I’ve done quite a few trannys now and yours shows virtually no wear based on what I’ve seen. You’re lucky my friend. 

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looking at the NEW C&P Automotive bearing Retainer it is machined to sit flat against the face of outer race of the bearing. also there is a drain back groove in the bottom to allow the oil to flow through the bearing and back into the transmission housing.

so wondering if i should remove both seals and let oil flow freely or leave in the outer seal ?! this is the side against the bearing retainer.

bearing retainer also controls where the bearing sits in the housing.

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36 minutes ago, chistech said:

I’m going to say it again, I’ve done quite a few trannys now and yours shows virtually no wear based on what I’ve seen. You’re lucky my friend. 

well i know the car was driven based on the wear on the engine, maybe the owner was proficient in shifting or just drove long distances ?!?

 

glad they are in good shape, not an easy part to find, nearly impossible, next to finding a head for 1929

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Posted (edited)

got the bearing retainer installed, followed the instructions to ensure that i did NOT roll the lip seal. 

installed a new gasket as well, used some Permatex thread sealer on the threads of the screws to hopefully reduce if not prevent wicking !!

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Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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Posted (edited)

actually installed the u-joint housing before the new bearing retainer...

new gasket, a little Permatex 2 on the gasket face, as well as Permatex Thread Sealer on the screws to reduce wicking.

 

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Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)

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next up was the speedo gear !! used a little grease to ease the assembly and the install.

 

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now the fun part... u-joint

 

started with the parts and pieces to get bolted in and secured... next up will be the other half 🙂 

 

lined up the castle nut and hole, installed and secured the pin

 

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I sent you a package today, should be there on Thursday. I finally remembered to send it out!

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well transmission was 90% complete, and when i got home today there was a package waiting for me from Ted... and it in was a few tools 🙂 man did that u-joint tool make like easier !!  Thanks Ted, I will get it back to you soon... the other tool was a clutch alignment tool, used to align the clutch in the pressure plate assembly. simple molded piece of plastic but should work like a glove... test fitted it in the clutch disc to validate fitment !!

 

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Ted's Custom built u-joint tool !!

 

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Clutch alignment tool in clutch disc for test fitment

 

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splines fit like a glove, should work perfectly !!

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now to assemble the u-joint.. did a test fitment to learn how the tool fits and work, not sure if this is correct, but fit perfect and work best for me on assembling the u-joint

 

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so i took it apart, put on some grease on the u-joint components for now, and then put ti all together...

used new nuts and lock washer to ensure no issues. went back together easier then it came apart.

 

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now the base of the transmission is all together, checked to ensure everything moved freely, the input shaft is a little stiff compared to the output shaft, but it does have that lip seal on it that provides a little resistance. but everything moves easily and freely and can scroll through the gears no problem.

 

plan to clean it up this weekend, mask it off then put on afresh coat of gloss black...

 

after it dries for a few days will be ready to put bell housing and fork back on it and ready for reinstall

 

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If you can believe it, that clutch alignment tool was purchased by me over thirty years ago to put the clutch in my 72’ Blazer. GM has been using that same size and spline pattern for that many years! Fits a 29’ and a 72’, probably all the way into the early nineties. Talk about one size fits all!

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40 minutes ago, chistech said:

If you can believe it, that clutch alignment tool was purchased by me over thirty years ago to put the clutch in my 72’ Blazer. GM has been using that same size and spline pattern for that many years! Fits a 29’ and a 72’, probably all the way into the early nineties. Talk about one size fits all!

wow, it is in great shape !!  and see that you can pick it up most anywhere still today. guess with all those vehicles out there makes sense.

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got it all cleaned up then masked off ready for a fresh top coat of black 😉
waiting for better weather so i can paint it up, been cool and wet here

 

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well had nice weather yesterday so took the transmission outside and put on a few coats after work. it was 75 F clear and sunny !!

 

let it sit for an hour or so and then moved it inside the garage to sit and cure for a day or so before handling too much.

 

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Posted (edited)

well since it was raining saturday was a great time to unmask the transmission, do any touch ups and then install the bell housing and fork. 

 

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Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)

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then installed the bell housing and fork, complete and ready for install !!

 

now to wait for the engine.

 

looks great and everything seems to move freely and function properly

 

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Posted (edited)

now that the transmission is all ready...

 

looking at other components to ensure everything is in working order. looking at the vane style oil pump. how can i validate that it is in top not ch condition. i have removed the cover and looked inside. how can i validate the vanes are in good shape ??

i have also looked at replacing it with the C&P Automotive style, but only if required or highly recommended. would prefer to rebuild and use the original one if at all possible. but want to make sure it supplied plenty of oil to the newly rebuilt engine with out fail.

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)

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