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1929 Chevrolet International - 4 Door Sedan Project


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just talked with the machine shop, and we are going to try and get everything sorted and over to them on monday !! worst case is to go by there and talk out my plan and things i want done.

then we can talk time, and then price, then i can go home and cry 😮

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well decided to get started on the transmission...

 

here is the Transmission Rebuild Kit & New Bearing Retainer I got from The Filling Station (Made by C&P Automotive) also got the new bearings while i was at it. very nice kit, has 2 new shafts, pins, cap & required bushings. 

 

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parts n pieces for the rebuild

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Following the instruction in the 1929 Chevrolet Repair Manual, took my time and tore down the transmission.

 

Here is the initial ROUGH Tear down to bare housing...

 

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housing with internal components

 

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housing looking inside

 

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front view

 

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rear view

 

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passenger side (fill port)

 

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bottom

 

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drivers side

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now to clean everything down and then prep for rebuild

 

going to soak and scrub the gears down then inspect them for defect, chips, cracks, etc...

 

see what it all looks like after some cleaning 🙂

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dropped off the block, manifold, flywheel, cam ,pistons, rings, etc to the machine shop to start work. told me it would be about a week before he could start on the block work, also we are going to look at grinding and polishing the cam. going to order a new cam gear and thrust plate.

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question for anyone that has rebuilt their Chevrolet transmission using the kit & parts i noted above. 
did you remove one side (facing inwards) of the bearing shield or leave it in ?? any issues, concerns, and/or recommendations ??

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

well got around to re assembling my transmission. been trying to get everything in order for our annual swap meet so been busy !!

 

laid out everything on my bench then started to reassemble. used my Harbor Freight 20 Ton Press to press on the bushings. i used a lights coat of oil to ease to process. this was really easy to do, as long as you ensure everything is straight and in line.

 

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everything lines up and ready to press 

 

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slow and steady wins the race

 

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all in

 

did this for all the bushings on the gears/shaft. took my time and made sure it war correct.

 

once all the bushings were installed i did test fit each shaft to ensure that they went in smoothly and freely and spun with easily with no slop or play. 

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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first to go in was the counter shaft cluster and shaft... then the reverse idler cluster and shaft. used the new shafts in the C&P Automotive rebuild kit.

 

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this was a test fit, still need to line up holes and drive in shafts then pin them in.

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next up was the main drive gear and shaft,

 

then the spline shaft assembly and gears. used my press again to press in the bearings into the housing and seat everything.

 

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then i made sure that all the gears moved freely and that i could work the gears into all ratios with out an issue

 

i have not pinned the shafts in yet, just in case. 

 

next up will have to pin the shafts to secure them in place, and then start on the u-joint housing and assembly !!

 

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Very nice work Jerry. Judging by the look of the tooth faces on your gears, your car either had an exceptional driver or wasn’t driven much. The old gears were never that pretty as far as the machining went but the faces were true. Yours still look virtually new.

     The trans in this 34’ pickup, even though its a early synchromesh, was really beat up. The shafts were really worn and deeply grooved compared to the bushings, the cones were worn, the shifter plate hole for the shift lever end, twice it’s correct width, the pin and the shift lever ball retainer all worn out, etc.!   I used three transmissions to make up one but now the rebuilt one shifts smoothly, has no more side to side lever swing, and just feels like a new trans. Steve had complained originally  that the trans didn’t feel right and boy, it wasn’t. He will be super happy with it when he gets it back.

Edited by chistech (see edit history)
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need to tidy up loose ends and get the u-joint housing installed and complete the output end, then i can put the housing and all back on and ready for install. 

 

have a complete gasket set for the car. so all new gaskets on the transmission 🙂

 

u-joint will get cleaned up and gone over, then back on the transmission output shaft 😉

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drove in the shafts lined up the holes, put in the pins, and pulled them over. shafts are now in there to stay !!

 

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holes all lined up on lower shaft

 

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holes all lined up on Upper shaft

 

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shafts all in and ready for pinning

 

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rolled over cotter pin1

 

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rolled over cotter pin2

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then found this gasket set i picked up somewhere...

know the 4 pieces are shims, 2 thin, 2 thicker, then the cork ball seal, o-ring to replace the cork in the mushroom, but not certain on the application of the lip seal ?!?!  it is 1.00 id and 1.500 od.

 

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They might put that down the driveshaft on top of the bushing to prevent oil in the unjoint from going down the torque tube. Check the torque tube I.d. And the shaft o.d.

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looking at the NEW C&P Automotive bearing Retainer it is machined to sit flat against the face of outer race of the bearing. also there is a drain back groove in the bottom to allow the oil to flow through the bearing and back into the transmission housing.

so wondering if i should remove both seals and let oil flow freely or leave in the outer seal ?! this is the side against the bearing retainer.

bearing retainer also controls where the bearing sits in the housing.

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36 minutes ago, chistech said:

I’m going to say it again, I’ve done quite a few trannys now and yours shows virtually no wear based on what I’ve seen. You’re lucky my friend. 

well i know the car was driven based on the wear on the engine, maybe the owner was proficient in shifting or just drove long distances ?!?

 

glad they are in good shape, not an easy part to find, nearly impossible, next to finding a head for 1929

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Posted (edited)

got the bearing retainer installed, followed the instructions to ensure that i did NOT roll the lip seal. 

installed a new gasket as well, used some Permatex thread sealer on the threads of the screws to hopefully reduce if not prevent wicking !!

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Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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