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1929 Chevrolet International - 4 Door Sedan Project


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yeah hadlamps were the last thing on the list.

 

going to touch up some paint and such this weekend. mainly black that i scuffed or scratched in the re assembly.

 

then a once over and make sure everything is correct and secure, then i need to get some gasoline and then i will try to test fire and see if it will fire up or kick my arse. 

 

been almost 4 years since it last ran, and done a ton of work to it since then.

 

hood will go on last once i get it running and tuned properly. just a pain to go back and forth to adjust and tweak things with the hood in the way.

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my punch list is down to UNDER 25 items left to go, and most of those are checks and steps for test firing

 

I have set a date of Next weekend as the date i plan on filling fluids, and attempting to fire it up !!

 

this week will be doing all my final checks and double checks. 

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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Did a double check this weekend, checked all hardware connections to ensure everything was tight & secure, checked all electrical connections and wired to ensure they were solid and secured.

Did some touch up on the black paint, few dings, scratches, etc...

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Working on my check list before i try to fire up the car... let me know if i missed anything or of anything is wrong. just really do NOT want to mess anything up, lot of time and effort in this car, and ready to get it running and driving ;)

 

FILL AND TOP OFF COOLANT
..... 11.5 QT 50/50 GREEN ANTIFREEZE W/ DISTILLED WATER
FILL AND TOP OFF OIL
..... 5 QT 10W-30
FILL AND TOP OFF TRANSMISSION
..... 2.5 PT 600WT
OIL IN U-JOINT
..... 4OZ 600WT 
OIL IN REAR END
..... FILL TO FILL PORT HOLE
FUEL IN FUEL TANK
..... FEW GALLONS OF REGULAR NON-ETHANOL
CHECK TIMING:
..... STOCK: FLOAT: .75", SET TIMING TO 12 DEG, SPARK PLUG GAP: .024", POINT GAP: .018"
..... VCCA: FLOAT: .75", SET TIMING TO 18 DEG, SPARK PLUG GAP: .040"-.045", POINT GAP: .018"
CHECK CARBURETOR SETTINGS
..... OPEN THE IDLE ADJUSTING SCREW FROM 3/4 TO 1 1/4 TURNS
..... WITH THE HAND THROTTLE ON THE INSTRUMENT BOARD CLOSED, SET THE THROTTLE LEVER ADJUSTING SCREW SO THAT THE MOTOR WILL RUN APPROXIMATELY 300 REVOLUTIONS PER MINUTE
..... IF THE MOTOR RUNS TOO FAST, BACK THE ADJUSTING SCREW OUT. IF TOO SLOW, TURN IN UNTIL THE PROPER SPEED IS OBTAINED.
POLARIZE GENERATOR
..... ALL WIRES ATTACHED AND THE ELECTROLOCK OFF
..... ATTACH A JUMPER WIRE TO ONE TERMINAL ON THE CUTOUT
..... TOUCH THE OTHER END OF THE JUMPER WIRE TO THE OPPOSITE TERMINAL ON THE CUTOUT (YOU SHOULD GET A SPARK)
..... "GEN" TERMINAL ON THE CUTOUT TO THE "BATT" TERMINAL ON THE CUTOUT
..... DO THIS A COUPLE OF TIMES TO MAKE SURE THAT THE GENERATOR IS POLARIZED
TURN OVER ENGINE TO PRIME FUEL PUMP (FILL GLASS BOWL)
..... FEW SECONDS ON THEN WAIT (DO NOT HOLD DOWN PEDAL FOR TOO LONG)
FIRE UP ENGINE
ROUGH TUNE - SET CARBURETOR: IDLE & ACCEL & ADJUST TIMING FOR SMOOTH RUNNING
LET ENGINE WARM UP AND GET TO TEMP
..... CURE EXHAUST MANIFOLD, PIPE, & MUFFLER PAINT
..... (NORMAL OPERATING TEMP OR 350 DEG FOR 10 MIN) !! WITH VENTILATION !!
WATCH/ CHECK FOR
.....  ENGINE OVERHEAT
..... FLUID (WATER, GAS, OIL) LEAKS
..... VACUUM/AIR LEAKS
TEST GENERATOR AS STOCK INPUT & OUTPUT VOLTAGE & AMPS
..... 8.2 VOLTS AT 1,700 RPM GENERATOR SPEED COLD, AND 7.7 VOLTS AT 1,800 GENERATOR SPEED HOT
..... ADJUST USING THIRD BRUSH TO MEET ABOVE SETTINGS
..... OPTIONAL GEN TEST:
..... ADJUST THE THIRD BRUSH SO THAT IT IS ABOUT 4 COMM. BARS APART FROM THE MAIN BRUSHAT THAT SETTING YOU SHOULD SHOW A MAX. OF AROUND 10 AMPS, FAST IDLE, LIGHTS OFF

 

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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what method of mounting is general accepted/ correct for the license plates on a 1929 Chevrolet.

i just got a set of nicely restored 1929 Virginia plates and do NOT want to damage them by any means !!

was thinking some black oxide hardware, or black painted hardware, slotted head screws, along with a washer and nut on each one. but was thinking of placing a small thin rubber washer behind the head of the screw as well as the plate to mounting bar. this way the paint would be better protected. or maybe cork washers :)

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picked up a Gano inline coolant filter, figured i would give it a try and see if it works. also figured if there is any debris in the engine, head, etc that the filter will catch it before it hits the radiator. also will be cool to see the coolant flowing through the clear tube. another perk is you will be able to see if there are air bubbles in it as well. 

 

picked this up from Gano Filters which is basically Restoration Supply Company.

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On 8/30/2019 at 10:48 PM, chistech said:

Hey Jerry, I’m probably wrong but I thought the filter cone went the other way but I’m sure the instructions had you install it that way.

yeah i installed it per the directions, cone points towards the radiator with flow of fluid. even has an arrow on the filter to make sure you do so.

 

only bad thing is on these cars the return to radiator is near vertical vs a slat run.  supposed to install the filter close to the radiator to catch debris BEFORE it gets to radiator.

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well spent most of the day doing final checks and then trying to test fire the 1929...

 

went down my list and validated everything, got everything cheeked off, and put fuel in the car. spun it over a few times, only for a few seconds at a time, then a minute rest to pump fuel to bowl. after several cycles still no fuel. so we started to diagnose the problem. tried to put fuel in pump and then go from there, nothing. so we double checked everything was sealed at the connections, still no go. pulled fuel line from pump and was able to siphon gas from tank easily. so that is a check. did a vacuum test on pump and got no reading ?!? needle did not even really move. so tried the pressure (outlet) and basically the same thing. we pull the pump double checked and on the bench we were getting 5-6 inHg on the vacuum and about 2-2.5 psi on the outlet for pressure. we could tell the cam lobe and the fuel pump arm are worn some. we did a test and put the pump back on the car with NO gasket bt the pump and the block. and did a test we got about 2-2.5 inHg and on outlet about 1.0 psi, but not enough to actually siphon fuel from the tank to the pump.

 

figured we were going to need to weld and build up the fuel pump arm, so we called it a day and went to get some dinner. i spent last night searching and reading post on here about this issue, and seems the general answer is to TIG weld and build up the fuel pump arm and try that, if that does not work then have to build up and grind the lobe on the cam for the fuel pump which sounds like it is EXPENSIVE !!. Now the fun begins trying to 1 find a local shop that can do a quality TIG weld and 2 one that is actually willing to do a small job of this nature. seems NO ONE around here wants to do anything unless it is a large government contract and they an make money. not many people that are willing to help out a fellow car guy on the side. its a shame...

question, i assume the arm that needs to be TIG welded is simple steel ?? nothing fancy or exotic. and based on the numbers should be around .400 bear rivet.

 

From what i read the proper numbers for the pump should be:
output pressure 1.50 - 2.00 PSI
inlet vacuum     8-10 Hg

 

though it was a failure we learned a lot, and more projects coming up...

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Dumb question from me of course: You have the correct arm in the pump? You should have a type 405 pump, which was an 855235 or 856198.  

 

Can you "run" it on the bench to see how much more arm travel you need to generate the pressures you need?

 

P.S. just looking for the fuel pump you have. The photos from page 2 of your topic are gone, which is fairly unhelpful.

 

 

Edited by Spinneyhill (see edit history)
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yes this is the correct pump, complete

and i have a spare

read some articles on VCCA and they discussed the NEW arm is like .400 thick across at the rivet, mine is .315 spare is .325

going to see about getting it built up

 

as for the pictures, yeah i know thanks google, when i started this venture loaded all my picts up to picaso, and linked them in. then google took over and became google photos, and all links were broke :( need to go back and embed them in the postings.

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10 hours ago, BearsFan315 said:

yes this is the correct pump, complete

 

Bummer about the photos. We saw the same thing with Photobucket when they changed from cost free to a fee system.

 

You might be interested to know the same repair kit, including arm, was used on these vehicles.

image.png.80603c5aa5f9ba34052e4a488420c3cb.png

 

these are types 411, 419, 425, 428, 436?, 505?, 506?, 512, 514.

Edited by Spinneyhill (see edit history)
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borrowed a dial indicator to check travel of the cam lobe.

 

set it up with the point aiming at the center line of the cm shaft. sure it is NOT perfect, but pretty good results. tried several different ways and came out about the same results each time. +/- .015

 

found out from low to high getting about .269

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took a straight edge and laid it against the cam to see how much deviation/wear was in the lobe. you can clearly see the 3 sections that match up thte fuel pump arm :) bit not really that much wear from the standard lobe to the wear section.

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had some time tonight to work on the welded up fuel pump arm.
wire brushed it and cleaned it up and then set up my bench grinder and away we went. 
too my time to try and keep the stock looking profile. after grinding ended up with a thickness of approx .390

 

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welded up arm (yes TIG welded 2 layers)

 

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cleaned up and ground profile

 

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close up of tip

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rebuilt the fuel pump, oh yeah while waiting for the welding i did glass bead the fuel pump and my spare one. 
so it does look nicer now :) rebuilt it following TFS instructions, and tips from here ;)

went together nicely. drop of oil on each wafer, also a drop of oil around the gasket to help it seal along with glass bowl, a little dab of grease on each pin on the arm inside.

 

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Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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on the bench i was able to get approx 7-8 Hg on inlet and it holds it on output get around 1.5-2.0 PSI

that is full stroke by hand

 

i installed it on the car with a new gasket and made sure the lobe was low side to pump, high side away. in doing so there was about a 1/4" gap between block and pump mount once the arm hit the cam, then pressed in and tighten down evenly. this is what i was shooting for that way the 1/4" of fere play is null once installed. 

 

ran a test, and was able to get about 6-7Hg on suction side with about 10 seconds of turning over motor, no plugs installed, and about 1.5-2.0 PSI on the outlet.

 

shot a short video of just a few seconds of turning over, but it does build of vacuum quickly.

 

 

 

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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that is all i had time for, have to clean up yard, and all loose items, bring trash cans into garage, etc... preparing for Dorian heading this way !!  also had to prep my sump pump to keep water out of my garage, they are calling for 5-6 inches of rain !! so everything off the floor !!

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Did you polish the arm before installing it? With a rough ground surface, it will further abrade the cam lobe. It should be shiny like the original cam lobe for minimum friction.

 

Keep safe with that hurricane. The good news, I suppose, is it has lost strength (according to our news reports).

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8 hours ago, Spinneyhill said:

Did you polish the arm before installing it? With a rough ground surface, it will further abrade the cam lobe. It should be shiny like the original cam lobe for minimum friction.

 

Keep safe with that hurricane. The good news, I suppose, is it has lost strength (according to our news reports).

I will remove today or tomorrow and polish it up good, just wanted to do a test to see if it works before all that.

 

plus i have 2 new polishing wheels arriving today, I hope :) got a fine and a medium, so i can polish and clean it up nicely. or at least that is the plan

 

as for the storm, just supposed to be a lot of rain and some mild winds. so that means we all will be cleaning up yards this weekend

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got my headlights installed and doing a test.

Parking lamps, look the same brightness and intensity

Headlamps either LOW or HIGH the drivers side is DIMMER than the passenger side

i removed the left assembly cleaned out the area around the socket, cleaned the socket, put that back together, then on the bucket wire brushed the paint off the threads removed paint off the top end of the nut where it touched the cup washer, stripped paint off the flat face that touches the nut, and the headlamp bar. stripped off paint on the headlamp bar that cup mounts to. so all those areas are metal on metal.

seems that the headlamp bar has a solid ground since the other headlamp is bright and full.

tried a test and ran a jumper ground from engine and touched it against the armor cable on drivers side and bulbs brightens up, then touched it against the passenger side and no change, so tells me passenger is grounded completely. also touched it against the socket housing on the bulbs and same results. there seems to be NO difference in the brightness of the parking lamp on either side when doing this.

did a second test of running a ground from battery directly and the same results.

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well went out and messed with the headlamps again tonight

decided to do a test to see if it is hte bucket or something else, so i swapped the reflectors assembly w/ pigtail from drivers to passenger, and test. and the drivers is still dim. so know it is bucket specific with the ground.

used my ohm meter and tested chasis ground to the headlamp bar and read o ohms, so know i have a pretty good ground.

pulled the bucket assembly off, and cleaned off all paint and primer on all connecting points. reassembled it using the carbon conductive grease to help prevent corrosion. then put in the reflector assemblies, for a test

this test was successful, both lights are bright and clear, did a ground jump wire test just to be sure and no difference in the brightness on either, so i am content for now that the ground is fixed.... i hope 

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spent Friday night chasing ground on headlamps and testing/priming the fuel pump from Test Fire ONE failure.

 

got up this morning, went out to garage, prepped everything, and was ready to test fire. but it was a NO GO, as the key in the electrolock would not turn. key went in easily, and lock would travel slightly in and out about 1/8" or so BUT the key would NOT turn :( i jumped on here, and read up and went through my notes. gave the lock a spritz of oil in the key slot and let it sit for a few to soak in and through. then put a dab of oil on the key and worked it in and out of the slot. still no luck. so decided to tinker with other things and let it sit longer. still no luck.

 

called up Chipper to have a chat with him about electrolocks. (Thanks Chipper) end result was pulling out the electrolock assembly and shipping it out to him to take a gander. so hopefully he can see what is going on, possibly fix it for me. just another trial day for me on the 1929. seems like it does NOT want to run, well start, was running and driving when i got it, but things some up.

 

so close, but every time something else comes up and stops me from running... 

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well not much else i can do for now, just have to sit and wait for Chipper to get the electrolock and diagnose. was given a cheat, to get the car running so i could tune and prep until i get the electrolock back.

 

my understanding is the electrolock in the 1929 breaks the circuit from the coil to the distributor. so IF i installed a small machine screw into the distributor following the same sequence as i would for the electrolock for isolation then connect a lead from this bolt to a simple on/off switch. then connect a lead from the other side of the switch to the wire that connects to the electrolock under the dash. it seems that this switch would serve as the on /off that the electrolock does now. then i could test fire the car IF everything else is in order and functioning properly. just need to make suire the switch can handle the current.

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On 9/5/2019 at 9:39 PM, chistech said:

Headlight bucket ground is often a PITA!

You would be really surprised if you ran a jumper wire ground from the battery to the headlight socket - I have always tried to recreate such via soldering a jumper wire from the headlight socket to the reflector and or headlight assembly itself - usually gives me I would say about 40% more light. 

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Sucks on the electrolock. It’s pretty easy to put an insulated stud in the distributor and fire it up that way. Done it many times. Actually doing with a jumper will take one more question out of the initial start up. If it was popping out but not making proper contact or even grounding out somewhere, you’d be chasing another issue. With the ignition as basic as possible, it will be easier to get it fired up and adjusted. One car I restored using the above method ran beautifully and I installed the EL. The car ran perfectly but about a month later, refused to start. After speaking with the customer I assure him that the majority of the ignition system was good and to chase the problem to the EL and that was exactly where the failure was. The old EL’s are definitely the weak point of the Chevy ignition on the early prewar cars.

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4 hours ago, chistech said:

Sucks on the electrolock. It’s pretty easy to put an insulated stud in the distributor and fire it up that way. Done it many times. Actually doing with a jumper will take one more question out of the initial start up. If it was popping out but not making proper contact or even grounding out somewhere, you’d be chasing another issue. With the ignition as basic as possible, it will be easier to get it fired up and adjusted. One car I restored using the above method ran beautifully and I installed the EL. The car ran perfectly but about a month later, refused to start. After speaking with the customer I assure him that the majority of the ignition system was good and to chase the problem to the EL and that was exactly where the failure was. The old EL’s are definitely the weak point of the Chevy ignition on the early prewar cars.

 

Yeah simple but huge impact of functionality of the car.

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well got up this morning and decided to bypass the electrolock so made up a simple wire. made it long enough to go from distributor to dash and put a lug on one end, and a spade on the other, as i found a few dc switches in the garage electronics pile. and made another short cable to jump from electrolock wire to the switch. used a small 10-32 screw to hold the electrolcok lug to the new small wire lug, then taped it off to keep it from shorting or hitting anything.

 

used my spark tester to validate if i had spark or not, switch on spark, switch off no spark.

 

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10-32 screw used to simulate the electrolock connection at the distributor

 

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electrolock wire connected to the switch wire

 

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back of switch

 

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dash side of switch with quick custom switch mount for easy access

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well nothing left to do but fire it up, or at least try...  so Test Fire 3.0

 

did a few cycles to get fuel to the fuel bowl, and realized had a few small fuel leaks, so tightened up a few connections. and then flipped the switch and the car turned over and attempted to start, then the next tap of the starter and bammm we had ignition.

 

car fired up and ran ok, turned it off, and then attempted to start it and it fired right back up. 

 

did a little tweaking and tuning, got it set to 18 BTDC and then adjusted idle then the mixture screw. Got it down to around 600 rpm and it stayed happy. this is on the NOS Carter RJH-08 150S, if i go under this then it sputters no matter what i do with the mixture screw. note that the car also has newer valves and setup done by PO.

 

 

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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