BearsFan315 Posted June 23, 2016 Author Share Posted June 23, 2016 Exhaust ManifoldExhaust Manifold 01Exhaust Manifold 02Exhaust Manifold 03 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted June 23, 2016 Author Share Posted June 23, 2016 Prime & Paint Question for Intake Manifold I am going to blast it to bare metal, Should I Prime and Paint or Just Paint ?? Going to Paint it using TFS Engine Paint that i have for doing the engine as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted June 23, 2016 Author Share Posted June 23, 2016 on the Exhaust Manifold I am using KBS Coatings Xtreme Temperature Primer and Paint Will blast it, prime it twice, paint it twice then cure it !! interested to see how it comes out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted June 23, 2016 Author Share Posted June 23, 2016 (edited) Alright got the Intake Manifold Blasted, wow, looks like new: Intake Blasted 01Intake Blasted 02Intake Blasted 03Intake Blasted 04 Anyone know what the the "SM 25" stamped on the Manifold Means ?? Edited June 23, 2016 by BearsFan315 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted June 23, 2016 Author Share Posted June 23, 2016 Alright got the Intake Manifold Painted all Up Looks GREAT: Intake Painted 01Intake Painted 02Intake Painted 03Intake Painted 04 The Part Number 835737 is stamped on there twice, then the Chevrolet Bowtie, and SM 25. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted June 23, 2016 Author Share Posted June 23, 2016 Better Painted Pict in the Daylight Intake Painted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted June 23, 2016 Author Share Posted June 23, 2016 Blasted up the Exhaust Manifold today... Looking a LOT better than before (see above pictures) Exhaust manifold Blasted 01Exhaust manifold Blasted 02Exhaust manifold Blasted 03Exhaust manifold Blasted 04Exhaust manifold Blasted 05 Now to prime and paint !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted June 23, 2016 Author Share Posted June 23, 2016 Got my Exhaust Manifold All Primed up.I am using the KBS Coatings Xtreme Temperature Zinc Primer, goes on smooth and clean. Following Directions from KBS, I applied 2 light coats of the Primer. Exhaust All Primed Up:Exhaust Manifold Primed 01Exhaust Manifold Primed 02Exhaust Manifold Primed 03Exhaust Manifold Primed 04 Have to say with the Primer on it looks REALLY NICE and CLEAN !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted June 23, 2016 Author Share Posted June 23, 2016 Next was Top Coat, this is the KBS Coatings Xtreme Temperature Paint, I decided to go with Jet Black, I know, I know it is NOT correct, but I like how SHARP it looks and the contrast against the Chevrolet Grey Engine color, plus will go nicely with all the BLACK Accessories on the Engine. YES, they make a Cast Iron Gray As well that many of you may like to make it look like RAW Metal. KBS Xtreme Temperature Coating Colors Exhaust All Painted Up:Exhaust Manifold Painted 01Exhaust Manifold Painted 02Exhaust Manifold Painted 03Exhaust Manifold Painted 04 I like the way it looks, have to say I am pretty impressed with the outcome so far. Now let it dry for 8 hours then will heat cure per instructions to FULLY CURE the product. Supposed to withstand temps up to 1200 F once it is fully cured. Will see how it works and how long it will last. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted July 7, 2016 Author Share Posted July 7, 2016 Make Horn Gaskets made the 2 Paper Gaskets using Fel Pro 1/64 Thick Karropak Material, the Rubber Gasket out of Fel Pro 1/32 Thick Rubber-Fiber Material. Horn Gaskets Using my Hole Punch, & X-acto Knife, also digitize the templates so i have them for future use, like all my gaskets !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted July 7, 2016 Author Share Posted July 7, 2016 Clean Electronics Horn ElectronicsHorn Electronics Cleaned UpCleaned Up Cleaned up the Commutator Oiled the Bearings Checked all Wiring Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted July 7, 2016 Author Share Posted July 7, 2016 Assembly Place NEW paper gasket on Electronics EndPlaced & Aligned Diaphragm on Electronics endSecond Paper Gasket On top of DiaphragmPlace Horn on top of Diaphragm and Paper GasketNew Stainless HardwareChosen for corrosion resistance Installing Hardware to clamp and hold together3x 1/2" ones for top half, 3 3/4" ones for lower half to hold bracketKlaxon Tag InstalledRubber Gasket Installed on Electronics EndCap Installed and secured with one screw Assembled HornAssembled Horn 01Assembled Horn 02 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted July 7, 2016 Author Share Posted July 7, 2016 Test & Tune Klaxon 8C Horn Test Should be a Short video of Horn Working [color:#FF0000]!! There should be a PLAY button in top right hand corner !![/color] When dissembled I loosened the adjust screw until the motor turned freely by hand with out resistance or clicking the diaphragm. when completely assembled i turned the adjust knock a few clicks at a time until the horn was at its loudest and not dragging or stalling the motor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted July 7, 2016 Author Share Posted July 7, 2016 well in looking through my parts i noticed that my Clutch Adjusting Eye Bolt was bent, and some of the threads are gone, even chasing them did not cure the issue. Hard to get nut to go passed a certain point. Stock Clutch Adjusting Eye Bolt So i went on a venture to find a replacement, which none to be had, so I had to make one !! I looked at standard Eye Bolts, noting that the stock one is 3/8-16. Found several options but the eyes were all too large. The stock eye is about 5/8" dia, the ones I found were either .90" or 1.00" diameter. Also the stock eye bolts on the shelf were NOT fully threaded. Then I stumbled across what I needed in the way of a 3/8-16 turnbuckle !! they are completely threaded and have 3/8-16 threads along with a 5/8" diameter eye, granted they are closed. 3/8-16 x 16 TurnbuckleThey have a 10" & 16" turnbuckle, went with the 16" as the screws were long enough, the 10" screws are shorter than the stock, 16" are longer than stock but can always cut them to length. Stock Bolt beside Turnbuckle BoltStock Bolt over Turnbuckle Bolt Marked up Turnbuckle Bolt using Stock Clutch Bolt as a Guide, then Used my Angle Grinder to trim and cut to length, then filed to clean up threads and edges. New Clutch Bolt Cut & Trimmed New Clutch Bolt vs Stock Clutch BoltStock besides New Clutch BoltStock LayOver New Clutch Bolt Ready for InstallNew Clutch Adjusting Eye Bolt COMPLETE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F&J Posted July 7, 2016 Share Posted July 7, 2016 Your original bent eyebolt does not look original to me. It might be a grade 2 homemade eye? I could be wrong, but I will look at my 29. I did work on the clutch and adjustment a month ago, and I do recall it was an open hook like what you made. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted October 11, 2016 Author Share Posted October 11, 2016 Well as most of you know, Ted [chistech] has been working on my 1929, doing many things including BUT not limited to, installing complete interior, vinyl roof, repairing and replacing some wood, doing some metal work, installed all new handles, cranks, escutcheons, window, rubber, seals, etc. car was delivered back here on Thursday am, started unloading and unpacking around 5am, and in the garage it went. Ted & Wife headed off to Hershey and me off to work, after a power nap of course. Then rolled in Matthew to water and blow us around. 6+ inches here, flood, trees down. spent 2 days cleaning up, still not done, then some sunshine on Monday, so rolled the car out, opened it up and decided to apply some scotchgard auto to the new upholstery and carpet. figured this should help preserve the fabric some. also was a GREAT opportunity to get some photos of the car, outside and inside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted October 11, 2016 Author Share Posted October 11, 2016 A Few Pictures of the Outside Doors Open: Outside 01 Outside 02 Outside 03 Outside 04 Outside 05 Outside 06 Outside 07 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted October 11, 2016 Author Share Posted October 11, 2016 Few of the Inside: Inside 01 Inside 02 Inside 03 Inside 04 Inside 04 Inside 05 Inside 06 Inside 07 Inside 08 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted October 11, 2016 Author Share Posted October 11, 2016 (edited) Here is link to the Ted Library...photos from restoration, many that have been posted on here in chats, but a lot that have not yet been posted or shared. 1929 Ted Restoration Library Got any questions, feel free to ask, Ted or Myself will gladly answerFeedback & Comments are also welcome Edited October 12, 2016 by BearsFan315 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest BillP Posted October 12, 2016 Share Posted October 12, 2016 Your link doesn't work for me. What a beautiful job you're doing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wldavis Posted October 13, 2016 Share Posted October 13, 2016 BillP, Found the link (but whether I can post it here remains to be seen). https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNUyy2LxOk_MtRTSwOLyiWOoaDrQBPu0cYqCrmUUMTl93r7ldFPm0ylJTQJ0s2R0g?key=MHl3ME5CUkppajdXaTRuYjNRcFc5Z1lNU2c5MjBn). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unimogjohn Posted October 13, 2016 Share Posted October 13, 2016 Bill, the link works fine. Pretty intensive work done and looks to be first class. What mechanical work have you had to do? Is the car running and driving also. Looks great from the pics so far. Great job in keeping her alive. You will now have to go to Hershey next year. Keep posting on your progress. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted January 7, 2017 Author Share Posted January 7, 2017 Yeah lots of work, had someone (Ted) up in Mass do the interior and roof, he did a superb job. great with wood and metal. as for work to do, i have to rebuild top half of engine, and while i have it out i plan to go over the transmission and make sure it is all good. strip and repaint it all while i am at it. no need to dig in and get it all done !! Was running ROUGH when i got it, and hope once i get done with the top end it will purr all day !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted January 7, 2017 Author Share Posted January 7, 2017 well finally got back out to the garage and pulled the transmission from the driveline assembly. I pulled the driveline back before i sent the car up to Ted (chistech) to do my interior and roof. read through all my notes and questions on here, then away i went. I used my engine hoist to leverage the transmission and serve as a second set of hands. used my endless loop sling as well. Transmission Slung You can see my homemade guidepins to ensure i was going straight out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted January 7, 2017 Author Share Posted January 7, 2017 Took some shots of everything coming apart: Pressure Plate & Flywheel AssemblyThrow Out Bearing and Fork Took a little convincing to get them to separate... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted January 7, 2017 Author Share Posted January 7, 2017 Pulled out the Clutch Plate to inspect: Cluth PlateClutch Surface Up Close Does this look ok ?? was thinking of replacing it with one from C&P Auto (Billy Possum) all the rivets are secure and tight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted January 7, 2017 Author Share Posted January 7, 2017 Some pictures of the Pressure Plate Assembly: Pressure Plate BacksidePressure Plate Cast NumberWhat does the EJ Mean ??View Inside at SpringsPlate SideClutch Surface Area Should i just clean this up and reinstall when ready, or should i break it down, clean springs, and then repaint the assembly minus the plate surface ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted January 7, 2017 Author Share Posted January 7, 2017 Now the Flywheel... Cast SidePlate SideTeeth Close Up Looks like the Ring was replaced as ALL the teeth on the gear look great no chips. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted January 7, 2017 Author Share Posted January 7, 2017 Then removed the Transmission Support from the back of the engine and cleaned up my mess... SupportRear of Engine 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chistech Posted January 7, 2017 Share Posted January 7, 2017 Great to see you're get back to it Jerry. Got Steve's 31' 5 passenger coupe in from AZ now that I'm working on. Kind of the same type wood issues as yours in the front. Getting a fully body disassembly and total, rotisserie paint job. Full rechrome, interior and roof. It's going to be hear for a while, lots of work. Right now we're in the middle of a 12-18" Nor Easter. Lots of shoveling tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted February 7, 2017 Author Share Posted February 7, 2017 Well ended up blasting all the trans parts, as the pressure plate and such were crusty and rusty. Transmission Parts View of the Trans Assembly Tore Down and Ready for Clean Up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted February 7, 2017 Author Share Posted February 7, 2017 All the Parts Prepped and ready for Blasting. Used Tape to cover the Friction surfaces, where the clutch runs. want to protect this so i do NOT have to machine it. Pressure Plate Drive SidePressure Plate Spring SideFlywheel Plate SideFlywheel Gear SideNotice that the Ring has been replaced sometime beforeTrans Bracket Engine SideTrans Bracket Trans SideBell Housing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted February 7, 2017 Author Share Posted February 7, 2017 Here are the parts fresh from Blasting... Only about 1.5 hours of work, well worth it, i was happy with the outcome: Parts All Sorted Out for Priming All the Fingers/ LeversPressure Plate SpringsClutch ForkPressure Plate Spring Side Man What a DifferencePressure Plate Back SideFlywheel Plate SideTrans Bracket Engine SideTrans Bracket Trans SideFlywheel Cover PlateBell Housing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted February 7, 2017 Author Share Posted February 7, 2017 I Then primed all the parts up, did not take any pictures of that process, sorry... but you can see the primer outline on the cardboard made sure that ALL parts were completely coated and sealed via primer, did about 3 light coats on all parts. Then applied Top Coat, 2-3 Coats on each part. All Parts painted up Pressure Plate Spring SidePressure Plate Back SideFlywheel Plate SideTrans Bracket Engine SideFlywheel Cover PlateBell Housing Yeah Yeah, i know the pressure plate and flywheel are left plain... but i primed them to protect them, could have stopped there, but could not find cast iron paint, so went with the Chevrolet Grey. You will not see any of these items once assembled, but I am happy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted February 7, 2017 Author Share Posted February 7, 2017 while in the engine, was looking at the fuel pump. i want to at least replace the diaphragm with FS-371 for ethanol if i rebuild The Pump how hard is it to completely do so with this kit: FS-908. is there any way to tell IF if needs to be rebuilt or has been rebuilt recently ?? Here are pictures of 1929 Fuel Pump, i bought the screen, gasket, and paper filter when i got the car for test runs... What do the two nuts/ screws on top do ?? do both house Valve Springs to control flow and direction of Fuel through the pump to the carb ?? looking at 1929 I&O pg 41, same as what is in the 1929 Repair Manual as well. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted February 7, 2017 Author Share Posted February 7, 2017 Well i did order TFS Items: FS-908 FUEL PUMP REBUILD KIT & FS-371 FUEL PUMP DIAPHRAGM. this way i can rebuild the pump if needed, and if not i have spare parts for it if i ever do order the Diaphragm just to have as a spare, i know the rebuild kit has one in it. figure it would not hurt to have a spare lying around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted February 12, 2017 Author Share Posted February 12, 2017 Well got out today, was a beautiful 70 degree sunny day. Cleaned up the Trans body, masked it off and then primed and painted it. Few shots of primed up Trans body: (Primer is still wet)Trans Body Painted 01Trans Body Painted 02 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted February 12, 2017 Author Share Posted February 12, 2017 Transmission painted up, Gloss Black Rig I made up to HOLD the Transmission for Prime & Paint Few Shots Painted Trans 01Trans 02Trans 03 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted February 12, 2017 Author Share Posted February 12, 2017 Tore down the gear shift lever today, going to prime and paint in tomorrow. supposed to me another beautiful 70 F sunny day. Cleaned up the Case Cover and Gear Shift Fork Assembly. lots of gunk packed down in the recess with the pins. Took a lot of convincing to get the lever out of the case. not too mention it was painted together !! does not look like PO took it apart and cleaned it up. Case Cover 01Case Cover Large Gunk Removed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted February 12, 2017 Author Share Posted February 12, 2017 Now my question is with the lever, spring, cap, and cup should the spring be greased ? oiled ? or is it just a simple spring in dry operation ?? here is a picture of it when i got it apart, notice the spring is PACKED with gunk. very hard to operate. took a TON on convincing to compress it. Lever Assembly w/ SpringLever Fork End Cleaned up Spring, cup, and cap were cleaned and spring works freely now !! All of the parts were cleaned and prepped for paint tomorrow, well the lever and case cover will. assume the rest are just bare metal ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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