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1929 Chevrolet International - 4 Door Sedan Project


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ok so started to put the linkage assembly back in the car.  on the bench everything moves freely and easily by hand. little or no effort required to spin a shaft or slide a shaft or any component on it. bearing surfaces were greased with a syn grease. 

 

mounting in the car with everything loose things move freely, but not a freely as they did on bench. if i tighten the drivers side at all the shafts are hard to turn at all by hand, if i only tighten the passenger side i can freely move either shaft. not sure what it could be ?? bracket or something out of whack ??

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Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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Is there a twist in the shafts?  Maybe you need to shim one of the mounts to get things working.  It stands to reason that if you bolt things tight and they stop moving, you are putting a bend or twist into the shafts.

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12 hours ago, Taylormade said:

Is there a twist in the shafts?  Maybe you need to shim one of the mounts to get things working.  It stands to reason that if you bolt things tight and they stop moving, you are putting a bend or twist into the shafts.

does not look like it, a friend state that maybe the floating bushings are not floating and lining up. maybe one of them is stuck. so i may try to figure out which one/ ones and then work them a bit to get some grease in it and see if that solves the issue. i am hoping that is the culprit. also the mounting holes are over sized and the center mount is slotted to allow for movement and adjustment. figure the frame will flex some as driving and the shafts have to adjust and move with the frame. hopefully a littler persuasion and talking to will fix the issue. if not out it will come and back on the bench for a real talking to !!  

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well first things first...  i got a package in from FedEx today, and it was from Uvira. Opened it up to find MY 1929 Reflectors, well the set i just sent him last week. they look great !! i validated they are mine, and when i get time i will open them up and start my headlamp assembly.

 

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task for the night was to try a few suggestion i received to get the brake shafts moving freely when tightened down. Noting that with all the hardware installed loosely, just enough to hold the assembly up in the frame, the shafts turned freely very little resistance at all.

 

first made sure the bushings were moving and rotating, just in case a bracket was crooked or off. made a small tool out of aluminum, basically a 1" wide flat piece maybe about 1/16" or so thick and rolled the 1" wide part over a socket and beat it with a mallet to make it lay flat against the bushing face. then used the mallet to tap the flat end of the aluminum bar to see if the bushings move, they all moved pretty easily when not under any stress or tension while installed. this had no effect on the spinning of the shafts. once i tightened the front bolt on the drivers side i could NOT turn the front shaft by hand and the rear shaft was a lot harder to turn.

 

second tightened everything down and then used my mallet to see if tapping the brackets would assist in easing things up, maybe brackets were not straight, etc... no such luck. tried both sides, few options, no go.

 

third thought about shims as mentioned above. with hardware loose, i pressed the drivers side bracket up against the frame and then used my feeler gauge to see if there was any gap between the bracket and the frame rail and if so how much. on the drivers side the back bolt hole was flush, no clearance, the front had about a .045" gap. so i got out my collection of 5/16 washers and measured them all. had a good range from .040" up to .075" thick. tried a .040" worked good, so tried a .050" and worked great. tried a .060" and back to binding again. so no shim in rear and a .050" shim on the front for the drivers side. did the same for the passenger, and ended up only needing .025" shim. so put in a .065" in the front and a .040" in the rear. and then tightened everything down. and wow they all move freely, not 100% like on the bench but about 90% !!! i can easily and freely turn either shaft with one hand by just grabbing the shaft and turning it. 

 

installed the springs to do a return test and wow the snap back into position quickly and nicely. i will redo the complete brake setting procedure and then see what happens, that is on the agenda for tomorrow. then i can reinstall the exhaust system and secure that once again. 

 

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drivers side with springs installed

 

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passengers side

 

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center support

 

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look closely you can see the .040" washer between bracket on right and frame rail on left.

 

 

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oh yeah just in case... the springs on the shafts near the center support work great !!

 

if i push or pull the shaft to the left or right, they easily pull the shaft back to the center point set. they did NOT do that before. so that is another huge plus.

 

i THINK i have the cross shafts ready to go...  i THINK and HOPE

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well last night went out and adjusted all the brakes, linkages, etc... for the brakes. 

check em once check em twice, make sure i had all my pins in and secured

did a courtesy check, spun some wheels by hand stepped on brake, and they stopped.

 

main point is the pedal gracefully returns to its natural upright position ;) (yes it put the tray back in the upright position as well)

then i realized that i did NOT connect the brake return springs !!  ugh, that was a quick minute fix, and now the pedal quickly returns home. 

 

content for now, i know once i get it road bound i will need to drive, adjust, drive adjust once all the new shoes break in and settle, also at that point the will probably be more assertive in stopping and stopping NOW :) 

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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spent a hour or so reinstalling and securing the exhaust system, down pipe, muffler, and tailpipe. ensured it was all in correctly and seated. did some black paint touch up underneath after doing the brake and exhaust install, few scratches, nicks, etc. 

 

NOW i think i am back to where i was a few months ago BEFORE taking on the brakes and such. next venture will be to build and assemble the headlamps and bar. then get ready to install them on the car.  that will get me almost there :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

lined up each socket and the pins pushed them through and then spun them gently and slowly to lock the pins into the recesses inside. and then made sure the clips were locked in under the other pins on the sockets.

 

looks good and should stay in place

 

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next step i put the main socket into the bucket and bent the clip back in place to hold it. i also sanded the outside of the socket as well as the inside of the socket holder on the bucket to ensure a good solid ground.

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close up of tab sticking straight out on left

 

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tab bent over holding in socket connector

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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the next step will to build the front assembly and put it on the lower bucket assembly, after i install the bulbs.

i have a stock set of 1000 bulbs which are 21cp - 21cp

ordered a 2 sets of LED replacement bulbs (each a different type/style of LED) for the 1000 bulbs, gonna see how they look and work BEFORE i install on the car. 

as for building the top, plan to proceed as follows:

lay the chrome trim ring on the bench, install the glass lens, raise glass face down (outwards) using the metal tab to align
...should the tab be bent over the lens to hold in place or does it also hold the gasket, and go into the bucket assy ?? or just stick straight up ??
install the gasket on top of the glass lens
...does gasket sit on top of the tab, or go inside the tab
place the trim ring on the gasket, flat lip down towards glass
...or does it go flat lip away from glass 

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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i lay then lens in the trim ring, drop in the gasket, then does not seem like the Headlamp Clamp Ring fits in there, like either the gasket is too thick and not allowing it to go or the trim is not tall enough, but looks the same as factory.

 

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trim ring face down

 

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lens in face down (prism to the inside, raised ring/lip to outside, text legible from front)

 

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close up of glass in trim ring, looking through slot

 

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gasket installed

 

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close up of glass & gasket in trim ring, looking through slot

 

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does the retaining ring go lip down like this

 

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or does retaining ring go lip up like this

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seems the gap is NOT correct and the trim ring should go up against the lip on the buckets...

 

tinkered with the gasket and flipped the retaining ring... if i flip the retaining ring that seems to solve the problem. the gasket seems a little thick for the New Trim Rings and NOS Glass combo. 

 

going to pick up some gasket material today 1/16", 3/32", and 1/8" and play with making custom gaskets this weekend for the headlamps. current material is 1/8" thick

 

goal for the weekend... figure this thing out and get them ready for the bulbs when they come in, still hoping that the supplier gets them in and ships them today so that i have them next week !!  hoping

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Jerry, I’ve always found the gaskets sold for the headlight lenses are either too thick (Chevy) or not thick enough (Olds). It seems no one has those darn things right. They tell you they’re for this year and make but they never seem right. I’ve even used the round rubber for setting screens in windows and doors for the headlight buckets. You can get that in different diameter and it ends up sealing very well.

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On 8/16/2019 at 8:55 PM, frank29u said:

for what it's worth, my '29 Ply gasket was paper, approximately 1/16" thick.

thanks

 

the Original i have were paper also, but about 1/8" thick. looks like the replacement trim rings are a little different then the original ones. then depth from the lens ring to the outer ring is not the same it is shallower.

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Well waiting for a few parts to arrive to move forward, i have sheet cork from Fel-Pro in 1/16, 3/32, and 1/8 now. so can make most all my gaskets.

 have a pair of NOS Head Lamp Trim rings on their way to me. supposed to be in excellent condition. also was told it had a set of original gaskets in the package :) once they arrive i will check them over, clean them up and test fit them and hopefully install and use them on the 1929. they are NOT reproduction, supposed to be NOS exactly like the ones that came originally on the car on 1929.

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also got in my test set of LED head lamps and plan to run a test, hoping that i will be able to compare to the stock 21/21 CP bulbs as well as the LED bulbs that Steve D (m00684) is testing in his car, once he gets the signal issue fixed.

 

be really interested in how they project and how on a wall and in a distance. 

 

actually bought 2 pair to test, but crazy me must have clicked on the wrong button and bought a wrong pair, as i ended up with a BA15S set vs the BA15D set. they look exactly alike except for the dual set does half power and full power for lows and highs vs the Single set is all full power all the time.

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ok, so did some bench testing on the 1929 headlamps...

built one complete (bucket, reflector, gasket, lens, retaining ring, trim ring, etc...) and then tested with my optima 6v and jumper wires. put the bucket on the bench and faced towards the garage door. from bench to back wall is about 25 foot. yes that is my 1929 to the left in the pictures :)

i did a few tests.. will group them accordingly below:

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Here are the Parking lights:

 

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0-Dark NO Lights on, other than my flashlight for finding pins in the connector and not shorting out the bulbs and battery

 

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1-Standard #63 bulb...single filament Incan, 38 lumen, 3 Candle Power
 

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2-LED #798 6k White....6 fwd SMD LED, 7 side LED, 90 lumen, 6 Candle Power

 

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3-LED #845 6k White....9 PIN LED, 7 side LED, 360 lumen, 23 Candle Power

the standard bulb lights up nicely, then the #798 does about the same lighting, but in a whiter light, then the 845 really lights up the room

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now the headlights:

 

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0-Dark NO Lights on, other than my flashlight for finding pins in the connector and not shorting out the bulbs and battery

 

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1b low/c high-Standard #1188 bulb...dual filament Incan, 402 low/628 high lumen, 24 low/34 high Candle Power

 

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2b low/c high-LED #475 6k White....8 low/16 high6 side SMD LED, 1200 low/ 1800 high lumen, 94 low/141 high Candle Power

 

pretty much same situation, the incan does a good job lighting up, but the LED is whiter and brighter.

02b #475 LED Low.jpg

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well got a package in the mail today and it was my NOS trim rings for the headlamps !!

 

they are good looking trim rings, not perfect but great for my restoration. they look just like the original ones i had but in way better shape. and as a bonus they had the NOS Paper Gaskets in there as well.

 

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Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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well built the headlamps with the stock style bulbs. and started the install on the car, and got the stanchions and cross bar on, then the headlamps.

 

need to fine tune and tighten everything up. then once the car is running i can set and adjust the headlamps per the manual. then i can do testing on the various LEDs with the actual car and driving ":)

 

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