BearsFan315 Posted April 16, 2018 Author Share Posted April 16, 2018 ok here are pictures of my Upper Metal Plate 1929 Upper Metal Plate 011929 Upper Metal Plate 021929 Upper Metal Plate 031929 Upper Metal Plate 04 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted April 16, 2018 Author Share Posted April 16, 2018 ok, so how does the Steering Column Grommet get installed. Steering Grommet TopSteering Grommet Bottom Does the Raised Surface (TOP) FACE the INSIDE or the OUTSIDE of the Car (Engine Bay) Does the LONG Side go up or down ?? (the side with the extra rubber between column hole and outside edge) Does it come in contact with the Metal Plates that goes on the Toe Board and Fire Wall ?? Raised Face Up - Under Metal PlatesRaised Face Down - Under PlatesRaised Face Up - On top Metal Plates Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted April 16, 2018 Author Share Posted April 16, 2018 if it goes above, then it has to go over the mat. which looks ok, if you ever have to remove the toe board, you have to move grommet, mat, then parts.but then any water from below gets in between the metal and mat up to grommetif it goes under, then it is remove mat, then toe board, and done.water would hit grommet and disperse, as long as grommet was tight against the metal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave39MD Posted April 20, 2018 Share Posted April 20, 2018 Jerry, Attached is a picture of an original 31 ground cable. The 1932 catalog shows this fitting 29-32. Overall length is 6.5, notice the bowtie on the bottom of the terminal. I think I may run an additional heavy cable from the battery bolt to one of the starter bolts to be sure of a good ground. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted May 22, 2018 Author Share Posted May 22, 2018 ok, took some time out in the garage and swapped out one of the oil pan screws, tweaked my oil line bracket and got it ready for install. just need to blast, prime, and paint then i can install !! Looks good and fits very nice Oil Line Bracket HardwareOil Ine Bracket Test Fitment w/ Hardware Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted June 20, 2018 Author Share Posted June 20, 2018 a while ago we talked about the oil line brackets for the engine, several people posted pictures and info about their brackets. i made a few rough ones, i recently got a nice mini bender and made a few pieces that re very nice and look great and will work great. just need to set up press to drill holes in them !! I used aluminum to set up my bender and tooling, since it is CHEAPER and EASIER to roll and bend.Aluminum Oil Line Bracket 01Aluminum Oil Line Bracket 02Aluminum On Oil Line Once i got the tooling set up I made one out of Steel !!Steel Oil Line Bracket 01Steel Oil Line Bracket 02Steel On Oil Line I hope to set up Drill and put the hole in them to test fit, then will paint and install the Steel one on my 1929. The aluminum is lighter and easier to bend, the steel one is RIGID. when you install them you can easily tighten the aluminum around the oil line, the steel one not possibly with OUT pliers, then you have to be careful NOT to pinch the line !! then trying to get it off later, that would be fun !! I am trying to make it more of a support where i can snap in the line and go with it. If anyone is interested I have some spare aluminum strips and steel strips and would be willing to make one for anyone interested. granted they would NOT be exact replicas. BUT based on pictures I personally think they will look CORRECT and Serve their purpose WELL !! May need to be adjusted and tuned when you get it to fit correctly !! PM Me if interested, figure just pay for material and shipping, I Will bend and drill them, they will be bare metal and require painting and fitting. Either Aluminum or Steel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted June 20, 2018 Author Share Posted June 20, 2018 ok, took some time out in the garage and swapped out one of the oil pan screws, tweaked my oil line bracket and got it ready for install. just need to blast, prime, and paint then i can install !! Looks good and fits very nice Oil Line Bracket HardwareOil Ine Bracket Test Fitment w/ Hardware Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted June 20, 2018 Author Share Posted June 20, 2018 was tinkering around last night while tweaking my oil line bracket. I digitized the 1929 Chevrolet Logo off my car and exported it for 3d Printing.Loaded it up in the Printer Loaded in some PLA and let it rip... Actually Came out pretty good. All i had was black, so will need to tinker with some paint and see how it comes out. 1929 Chevrolet Logo 3d Print 011929 Chevrolet Logo 3d Print 02 Just thought I would share, Love Technology and These Old Chevrolets, so combine them when i Can !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted June 20, 2018 Author Share Posted June 20, 2018 got my wiper motor all ready to go, gonna paint it this week and hopefully install it soon.was wondering HOW/ WHAT hardware to mount it to the header ? I see there are Three holes in the metal across the top above the vacuum port coming out. and on the b racket there are 3 countersunk holes that match up. What is USED to mount the bracket to the header ?? and What size/ length ?? scanned through my manuals and MPL did not see anything in there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted June 20, 2018 Share Posted June 20, 2018 I am impressed with the clarity of your 3D printout. Did you scan take much cleaning up to get into that state? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted June 29, 2018 Author Share Posted June 29, 2018 Well i made up new cables, used 1/0 cable cloth wrapped from Rhode Island Wiring, bought the Fusion (Pre Solder) connectors and clamps. The cables from Rhode Island were very nice, I had them pre cut the cables to my lengths, no charge. since i have no way to cleanly cut 1/0 cable. read the instructions and watch a few videos on how to solder on the connectors. they went on pretty easy and looked great, then used from electrical heat shrink to seal them up and clean them up a bit. Fusion ConnectorsSolder inside the Clamp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted June 29, 2018 Author Share Posted June 29, 2018 Here is a quick shot of the Cables Soldered and Assembled. the connectors and clamps are at those angles as that is how they will sit when installed in the 1929 Cables AssembledClamp Close Up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted June 29, 2018 Author Share Posted June 29, 2018 had no way on hand to heat up and shrink the tubing, so ventured over to a fellow AACA members house and used his heat gun to shrink the Tubing Cables Ready for InstallCable End Close UpCloth wrap on Cable Close Up They came out really nice and I am happy with them. The LONG cable is for the starter. the other two are for ground. one from frame rail to disconnect switch, one from disconnect switch to battery Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted June 29, 2018 Author Share Posted June 29, 2018 I am installing a disconnect switch as well. this way i can disconnect the battery from ground when in storage, also will hard wire charging cable to the battery clamps. this will make it easier to access and charge the battery while installed. Pictures of the Disconnect SwitchBattery Disconnect SwitchDisconnect Switch Posts I plan to mount it just under the passenger seat in the floor wood. Disconnect Switch Location...would be top right in this picture, this allows for easy access and it is out of the way of feet and getting in and out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted June 29, 2018 Author Share Posted June 29, 2018 I plan to mount it under the wood, so only the center post of the Switch will be visible, and can place the key or cap on it when needed. however the post was way to long and stuck way above the wood, so i needed a way to lower the switch and securely mount it. 3d Printing to the rescue, i designed a spacer and printed it out in PLA on my handy dandy 3d desktop printer. Switch and 3d Printed SpacerTop view of Spacerthe holes line up perfectly and fits nicely. Test fir of swtich and SpacerTop view of Test FitWith key installedWhen it gets permanently installed i will use machine screws, flat head slotted so they will sit flush with the wood. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted June 29, 2018 Author Share Posted June 29, 2018 On 6/20/2018 at 3:55 PM, Spinneyhill said: I am impressed with the clarity of your 3D printout. Did you scan take much cleaning up to get into that state? i did NOT scan it, i did it digitally from a picture in AutoCAD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted June 29, 2018 Author Share Posted June 29, 2018 spent some time working on the Floor Wood. I spent a week or so trying to match up finishes and colors on what Ted (Chistech) di on the Oak he installed under the seat. After many tries and not getting close I threw in the towel and pulled the seat, sanded and stripped the piece of wood and then put 3 coats of Helmsman on it and the Floor Board & Toe Boards. I put on a coat, let it sit 12 hours, lightly sanded with 220 sand paper, then applied another coat. have to say that it came out really nice, probably too nice. 2 coats would have sufficed, but directions said 3 to seal... I also used the Satin finish, did NOT want a shiny coat. Ted Board Refinished with 3 Coats HelmsmanClose Up Floor Board Top SideToe Board Top Side I will let them CURE for the next few days then install them and secure them for now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted June 29, 2018 Author Share Posted June 29, 2018 Just for reference... Here is a comparison of the finish colors of The Original vs Now Helmsman vs OriginalSide by Side you can see the Color Differences Helmsman vs NowLooks a lot closer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted June 30, 2018 Share Posted June 30, 2018 Lots of great work here... car looks like its coming together well! I've got a '29 sedan coming that's an older restoration and i'll be doing alot of what you've done if it sticks around long enough. Love the color of your sedan! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted July 5, 2018 Author Share Posted July 5, 2018 Lahti35 thanks !! lots of time, love, and work on my 1929 will be glad when it is back on the road and driving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted July 5, 2018 Author Share Posted July 5, 2018 Well started assembling the parts back on the Floor/ Toe Board for my 1929 Toe Board 01 FrontToe Board 01 Back Toe Board 02 FrontToe Board 02 Back got this all ready to go back in, had to touch up some paint on the frame rail and clean up the area for the ground cable to connect to the frame rail. once that is all done and dried i will install all the floor wood. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted July 5, 2018 Author Share Posted July 5, 2018 got the wood all stripped down, then applied 3 coats of Helmsman to it. ooh does it look nice, yes i used satin did NOT want the bowling ally shine !! Disconnect from underneath car Disconnect from Top Side Disconnect Switch this is permanent install, well at least I hope. used flat head, slotted screws and countersunk holes for clean install. the switch was installed just high enough to get the key in and turn it and NOT rub the wood or interfere. it is also slightly tucked under the front seat, hopefully out of the way of anyone and everyone feet !! Touched up the paint on the battery tray and around where i ground off the paint on the frame rail for the ground cable and hardware. i want to make sure i have a GOOD SOLID GROUND !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted July 17, 2018 Author Share Posted July 17, 2018 installed and secured the wood in the 1929 today Drivers Side 1Drivers Side 2 Passengers Side Battery Cover Installed[/quote] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted July 17, 2018 Author Share Posted July 17, 2018 Pictures of the Rubber Mat from TFS Top SideFisher Logo Close-Up Close Up of Creases/ Wrinkels from the Rubber Moldthese are the marks people talk about and refer too when they talk about waves, creases, wrinkles in the rubber mats. One Supplier for everyone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted July 17, 2018 Author Share Posted July 17, 2018 Few shots of the Mat installed, I had to order Pedal Rubber, will install those once they arrive Pedal ShotDrivers SidePassengers Side Floor Shot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted July 17, 2018 Author Share Posted July 17, 2018 Installed all the new power and ground cables last night. Ground cable to Frame Rail Ground Cable to Disconnect SwitchFrame Rail on the Right, Battery on the Left Looking Forward Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted July 17, 2018 Author Share Posted July 17, 2018 Power Cable from Battery to Starter Top Down Look of New Cables Ground Bolt Outside Frame Rail These cables are pretty rigid, but will Flex if needed. I plan to FULLY Tighten down the connection on the starter and Disc Switch ONCE the battery is in and Cables Routed and Secured. Need to be able to swivel the lug on the Bolt to get the proper Angle !! May just toss the battery in and fine tune them to be certain. that way there is no more adjusting and configuring later. Battery will go in and stay in after that. will connect charge cables to the battery connectors for ease of access and use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted July 17, 2018 Author Share Posted July 17, 2018 been installing my new floor and wood, and got the mat installed so put in the accelerator pedal. thought i would follow up on the anti-rattle spring with some pictures of my install. Accelerator Rod, Spring, Washersmall spring from my local hardware store, 1/4 SAE Flat Washer Accelerator Rod Installed through Carburetor Anti-Rattle Spring, Washer, Return Spring Installed From Front Anti-Rattle Spring, Washer, Return Spring Installed From Rear Anti-Rattle Spring, Washer, Return Spring Installed From Top Not sure if this is 100% correct, but it seems to hold together and fit Nicely. The Return Spring goes around the front bolt/ stud of Exhaust Manifold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted July 19, 2018 Share Posted July 19, 2018 That floor turned out great... Those marks in the rubber mat must be imperfections in the mold? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted July 19, 2018 Share Posted July 19, 2018 It looks more like the rubber is setting as it runs into the mould to me. Like cooling lava. If it is a heated pressure mould, maybe they are not hot enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted July 20, 2018 Author Share Posted July 20, 2018 yeah was wondering if the mold was not hot enough or cooling to fast !? hopefully they get that figured out and take care of, or if it is the actual mold make a new one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted July 30, 2018 Author Share Posted July 30, 2018 (edited) due to inclement weather and not being home a lot lately due to work I am shifting gears to keep things moving on my 1929 Restoration. Looking at Data Plates/Tags:looks like all of them were hand stamped with the numbers/ info 1-ID Data Plate: DP-29 Original one: gone when I got the car --Where is it located in/on the car ?!? --CAR NUMBER is the Engine Serial Number ?? --How is it secured to Car ?? 2-Generator Tag: RW-29 Original one: has lost color and beat up --MODEL is 943J --SERIAL NUMBER to Match existing 3-Starter Generator Tag: RW-29 Original one: has lost color and beat up --MODEL is 714L --SERIAL NUMBER to Match existing 4-Distributor Tag: RW-30 Original one: has lost color and beat up --MODEL is 833G --SERIAL NUMBER to Match existing any and all help/pictures would be appreciated. I plan to order the Plates/ Tags from TFS this weekend. Edited April 4, 2019 by BearsFan315 fixed pictures (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted July 30, 2018 Author Share Posted July 30, 2018 (edited) think i found the location of the original PLATE !!! Right Sill Assembly, at the seam of the front cross seal and the removable floor board. Found 2 nails in the Sill, then 2 holes where nails used to be ?!?Serial Number/Data Plate Nails 01Serial Number/Data Plate Nails Close Up passenger sill close up of sill where existing nails can be seen in red circles Edited April 4, 2019 by BearsFan315 fixed pictures (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted July 30, 2018 Author Share Posted July 30, 2018 (edited) not sure of the manufacture plant/facility car was in Central Indiana as far back as I can trace History for it. Info/Pictures I have: Engine:Pict01Casting Date: E__1__9Cast No: 835501Bowtie: 12Serial No:653xxx Transmission:Pict01 Pict02 Pict03Casting Date: Cast No: 59031 Letter under Casting: BSerial No:AV387xx Rear End Housing:Pict01 Pict02 Casting Date: Cast No: 352287Serial No:1476xxx Anything more please let me know, and appreciate the help with this. Edited April 4, 2019 by BearsFan315 fixed pictures (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted July 30, 2018 Author Share Posted July 30, 2018 (edited) a little ecstatic at the moment, was scamming through an envelope PO gave me with some pictures and in there was: 1-Driver License of Owner from 1940 ...cool paper license with name, age, race, eyes, on the front, then on the back, a reminder to use proper hand signals when driving with graphic of each 2-Fisher Body Tag ...goes on the passenger side front corner 3-Serial Number Plate ...rough looking but think i can make out the info !! Serial Number PlateSerial Number Plate - Car Number Looks to be 9 AC 42xxx which would put it Norwood, OH Facility ?!? and a 1929 Chevrolet original data plate found in envelope close up showing factory model and serial number Edited April 4, 2019 by BearsFan315 fixed pictures (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chistech Posted July 30, 2018 Share Posted July 30, 2018 Location of those nails look about right to me Jerry. Check the spacing against the data plate. Great that you found the original plate also. Went back through some things on my Olds and Chevy a while back while cleaning up the garage and found some of those same exact treasures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted September 3, 2018 Author Share Posted September 3, 2018 (edited) Got my data tags all back Data Tags Edited April 4, 2019 by BearsFan315 fixed pictures (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted September 3, 2018 Author Share Posted September 3, 2018 (edited) Also talked with a gentleman that had an ad in the VCCA magazine, and ordered a NEW Fisher Body Tag, have to say WOW !! He did a great job and from the time i sent the info and check till i received the tag back was less than 2 weeks !! Original Fisher Body Tag NEW Fisher Body Tag Contact Info w/ my new Tag Link: DataTags Website Edited April 4, 2019 by BearsFan315 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted September 3, 2018 Author Share Posted September 3, 2018 I am ordering NEW hub caps and they look like this: should I go with the Unpolished or polished versions... the above is unpolished, if i go polished the finish will look like this, but imprint will be like above Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank29u Posted September 5, 2018 Share Posted September 5, 2018 For what it's worth, I like the polished. Great work you're doing. frank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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