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JouniK

1963 Brake booster etc.

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Or you could go with some OE type replacement parts for a '67 drum/drum setup and get the safety of a dual reservoir setup as Jim Cannon explains in his article in the Tech Tips on the ROA's website.

The kit you found on ebay suggests this is for a car that's been converted to disk brakes in the front. If that's your case, you can substitute a disk/drum master cylinder for the one I've attached.

Buy Cardone Select Master Cylinder - New 13-1328 at Advance Auto Parts

Buy Cardone Vacuum Power Brake Booster without Master Cylinder - Remanufactured 54-91104 at Advance Auto Parts

Edited by RivNut (see edit history)

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All the aftermarket stuff is neat until you're on the road somewhere and need to find a replacement part. If you use OE type stuff, there's a good chance that you can find a "fix" it where it sits. Most guys running a Petronix set up in their distributors carry a set of back up points in the glove box.

Ed

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Thanks Ed, but the one from ebay offers kit for drum/drum, disc/drum, disc/disc, so thats not the problem. But as You mentioned, the OE parts are a bit easier to find (cheaper also ..). The problem is that I live here on the other side of the globe, and I haven´t found a company that ships to international addresses.. :( Here´s the one I need:

Buy Cardone Vacuum Power Brake Booster with Master Cylinder - Remanufactured 50-1104 at Advance Auto Parts

J

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Good find.

The first thing that comes to my mind is how can the eBay part can fit three applications: drum/drum, disk/drum, and disk/disk. I called a friend of mine who manages an Advance Auto store and his only suggestion was to find someone on the east coast of the U.S. who would purchase it and ship it to you. I live in the center of the U.S. so it would cost me extra just to get it to the east coast before going over seas.

Another choice would be Rock Auto. They do ship internationally. www.rockauto.com They don't have that particular combination listed, but they have each individual part.

Ed

Edited by RivNut (see edit history)

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I think the Jamco kit and the kit on ebay are the same. These look similar to the Master Power Brake kit that is on mine. May in fact be the same. Be interesting to see who makes these. It went on without a hitch and I have had no problems with it since it was put on. Pictures attached.post-53315-143141947318_thumb.jpg

post-53315-14314194731_thumb.jpg

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Didn't have to remove the tank to make it fit, but the tank served no purpose after the booster was changed, so I removed it.

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Thanks Ed, I got them both from RockAuto. There was no o-ring between the (assebled)master cylinder and booster, I guess I need one?

J

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AND can I re-use the distributor block from 63? I was thinking about removing the brake pipe coming from the rear and connecting that to the new master cylinder (rear). Then I´ll connect the dist. block to master cylinder (front) and I´ll connect the brake light switch to the open port. Does this sound like it would work? The other fittings are 1/8 (?) but what is the size of the bigger one in the new 67 dual master?

Thanks!

J

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Jim Cannon covers this in detail, step by step, with illustrations in the Tech Tips section on the ROA's website. I just reviewed it a couple of nights ago in order to make up a "shopping" list for myself.

Ed

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AND can I re-use the distributor block from 63? I was thinking about removing the brake pipe coming from the rear and connecting that to the new master cylinder (rear). Then I´ll connect the dist. block to master cylinder (front) and I´ll connect the brake light switch to the open port. Does this sound like it would work? The other fittings are 1/8 (?) but what is the size of the bigger one in the new 67 dual master?

Thanks!

J

Plug the open port of the '63 distribution block. The brake light switch will not screw into it.

Put the brake light switch in a T-fitting that you use to connect the new master cylinder to the existing rear brake line. You were going to need a connector there anyway. Use a T-fitting instead that has the 1/8" pipe thread that you need for the switch.

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Thanks Jim. But I messed it up already :( Everything else went ok but I ruined the thread in the brass juction block. So I need to search for a new one. I think I´m going to use t-juction with 3 3/8 threads for the front brakes. I already made a completely new line for the rear brakes so thats ok. Too bad they sell metric fittings here also, M10 x 1,25 is close to 3/8, guess how I know that..

J

Edited by JouniK (see edit history)

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Ok, my conversion is done and working. I used the original juction block: The original lines front, the one going back is now going to the master cylinder. I drilled and tapped the connection for the old master cylinder line, it now has a 1/4 NTP thread and a coupler to accept the original brake light pressure switch. The brakes work great!

Jouni

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Hmm, now the brakes are binding. I drove 15 miles and noticed that the front wheel was so hot the grease from the bearing was running.. The other wheels were also hot, but not like the one front wheel. So my guess is that all the brakes are binding--> something wrong with the master cylinder maybe. I did not adjust the brakes as they were working fine, all the hose are new. The master cylinder and the booster are from 67 Buick, remanufactured by Cardone. Could it be that master cylinder pushrod is not adjusted properly? I did not touch it, I just took the master cyl. and the booster apart, painted them and put them back torgether.

J

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After further investigating the problem I noticed the brake pedal sometimes stays down. Not everytime but when it does, I can lift it with my foot. When this happens, the brakes are on too..

J

Edited by JouniK
typo (see edit history)

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It sounds like your power brake booster is not releasing.

It is not the push rod.

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There should be some freeplay between the pushrod and the master cylinder piston. If the piston does not fully release, pressure will build in the system, the brakes will drag and overheat, aggravating the problem and eventually cause the car to be undriveable.

More than a few years ago I purchased a beautiful, original, low mileage `65 Catalina 2dr hardtop at a very attractive price for this very same reason. The owner had removed it from long term storage, blew a brake line and had his shop install a dual res master cylinder. The owner/or his shop assumed the transmission was failing and required that I sign several waivers as to condition before he would concede to the sale. After 15 minutes of driving, the car would refuse to move. It was obvious there was a brake problem from the smell of overheated brake linings. After a quick 15 minute adjustment of the brake pushrod all was well. Nice car...8 lugs, 4 barrel carb with dual exhaust, clear plastic seat covers, original spare...as I recall the mileage was around 20K...like to have that one back! Good luck,

Tom Mooney

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Thanks!

But I think I messed it up myself.. I red here that there should be an O-ring between the master cyl. and the booster. There was none so I put one there... Now I took it of, seems like everything works.

J

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Thanks!

But I think I messed it up myself.. I red here that there should be an O-ring between the master cyl. and the booster. There was none so I put one there... Now I took it of, seems like everything works.

J

That O-ring is only used when you put a later model dual-MC into a stock '63 brake booster.

If you have the later booster+MC combo, use it as it ships.

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Or you could go with some OE type replacement parts for a '67 drum/drum setup and get the safety of a dual reservoir setup as Jim Cannon explains in his article in the Tech Tips on the ROA's website.

The kit you found on ebay suggests this is for a car that's been converted to disk brakes in the front. If that's your case, you can substitute a disk/drum master cylinder for the one I've attached.

Buy Cardone Select Master Cylinder - New 13-1328 at Advance Auto Parts

Buy Cardone Vacuum Power Brake Booster without Master Cylinder - Remanufactured 54-91104 at Advance Auto Parts

Hi Ed

My booster and master cyl both original I would like to replace to gain the dual mc safety advantage etc. Basically I need to order a 67 Riv MC and Booster for a dual drum brake car from anyone up here in Ontario. Is this correct? Is this a direct bolt in? As you stated at least the car still has Buick parts and would be far easier to find and cheaper also than the units you see on Ebay etc.

Regards

Glenn McMahon

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Jim's article includes part numbers and a couple of drawings of a bracket you'll need to fabricate. There's really nothing I can add to the article. It's well written and informative. All of the neede parts can be obtained from almost any local jobber or online from places like Rock auto.

Ed

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