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Guest Sanddoc

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Guest Sanddoc


actually got the Chandler turned over today, but it has a dead magneto, so off to have it repaired.

so in the mean time, does anyone have any tech info they can pass on to me.

plug cap, for starts... what is the "pin" push -pull " do,

in the light switch there is a key lock, is this for the magneto?



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Guest Sanddoc

So on Fri I got the Chandler running, a little rough. again any info I'd appreciate.

it looks like the plugs are set in removable housings, for lack of better wording, are

they removable?

What year and model is your car?

I do know its a 1920, 6 cylinder, 4dr and thats all I know..

Has a Bosh B6 magneto, just sent it out for repair

she cranked over pretty easy yesterday, after sitting for about 20 + years...

I'm not the owner just the grease monkey...

Any info I can get would be great, I've tried the internet for days, but not much there.

BTW do you know if the doors are suppose to close flush witht he body or just over lap?

is the Key lock in the head light switch for grounding the magneto?

what is the best position to have the controls in, (on the steering wheel) when starting..

and maybe last for the moment, what carb came on this car, I am subing a Zenith 1512 b and have no info on that one

Hey thanks for replying...

This is the oldest car I've worked so far, the next oldest was a 1925 Flint...



PS: this is a 4 door open car... I guess it would be a 7 passenger touring car

thanks again

Edited by Sanddoc (see edit history)
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  • 5 months later...


Is your 1920 Chandler touring car listed in the data base of all known Chandler autos that is kept by the Chandler Cleveland Motor Club?

Perhaps you could send the serial number along with your name and location, and it can be added to the list.

Thank you,

H. Wintz

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Hello Jon,

Thank you for your reply.

We are looking for the serial number of the car - like a modern day VIN. The 1920 Chandler cars had serial numbers from 82000 to 106000. Some serial numbers are right on the engine, and some are listed on the title of the car, too. Some of the Chandlers in the later 1920s had the serial number on the fire wall. We're not sure when they changed from putting the number on the engine to putting it on the fire wall. If you can, we certainly would appreciate having the serial number for your Chandler to add to the Club's list.

Thanks again,

H. Wintz

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  • 2 weeks later...

Start with the basics. Check the compression, if all cylinders are close to equal, you are OK, if not, suspect the valves first.

I'm not sure on the '20s Chandler engine, is the engine an aluminum crankcase, with two sets of cylinders of three each?

If so, it is similar to the earlier engines. Each cylinder has two threaded plugs in the top of the cylinder. These plugs are how the valves

are serviced.

The oil pump should be removed, the screen on the oil pickup cleaned, and the oil pan cleaned. After 20 years, there will be a thick layer of crud on everything, it needs to be removed before running the engine !!!

If the compression is close to even in all cylinders, and the spark plugs all look ok, then double check the firing order from the magneto to the plugs. Then check the intake manifold gaskets where it is bolted to the head, a bad gasket will cause a miss.

The Bosch Magnetos don't need much, if the cap doesn't have cracks or carbon tracks, and the points are not dirty or oily, the mag should be fine.

The plug wires must be copper core wires not some modern carbon-core junk.

A photo or two of the light switch and a photo to accompany each question is very helpful. These cars are NOT plentiful, and many have had items like carburetors swapped, and other non original parts installed.

Here is a photo of the right side of my '15 engine, it has the correct Rayfield carburetor, and for me, it is working very well.

Greg L


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