MikeDeFelice

Franklin Speedster Build

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Tom, Can you tell me what temperature I should expect to measure about 6 inches from the exhaust port after engine has been running at idle. I have some cylinders around 260F and some around 450F. Trying to sort out the engine. found out that the Cam timing is off so I need to fix that first.

Thanks Mike

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Mike, You are doing a good job. You might consider removing the heads and grinding the valves. The valve seats will be bronze ,so may need a seat cutter as a stone will plug up instantly. I believe you will see those 100 horses wake right up then.

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That is one impressive motor. Don't see many Air cooled Speedsters.

Do you know what the engine specs are?

Yes on the Seatbelts, this is what I have selected for the Speedster I am building now. Just give some serious thought as to what you are attaching them too. Even in a relatively slow speed collision, the forward momentum in the human body is several times its weight.

I think in a Speedster these are perfect. http://wescoperformance.stores.yahoo.net/am4point.html

post-88510-143142213288_thumb.jpg

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If you can get them to make a set with a black waist belt and red chest straps, It will look like you are just wearing red suspenders!

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Doing a lot better. Physical Therapy twice a week and 3 days a week at the Gym. It will probably be around June before I am close to being all the way up in the Saddle. thanks for the Comment!!

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Should give you time to look for parts... hope that heals up fast for you, although I know it never seems fast when you're going through it.

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Hi great job Good luck on recovery program,

I like the comment on black and red seat belt. Not sure how to attach the upper support or just go with lap belt. Any ideas??. I rode in a Reo many years ago and am still remember wondering how far I would have gone thru the windshield in a collision!!!

Fred

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I know they always specify that seat belts and safety seats should be attached to the "frame" but in modern cars that usually means a big washer under the floor pan or even the parcel shelf. It might be worth adding a cross brace or an extra crossmember in the frame itself to run these through the floor. Light aluminum, wood or even thin sheet metal is not going to be strong enough in the event of a mishap. Better to err on the safe side if you want them to work. According to Newton, objects in motion tend to stay in motion, so we would fly about as far as it takes a human body to decelerate from cruising speed.

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Agreed.

And make sure the seats are firmly bolted to the frame as well. I wouldn't want to be attached to the frame and have the seat continue on without me.

And lap belt vs. 3 or 4 point belt? Ribs and faces break before steering wheels and dashboards!

Edited by Dwight Romberger (see edit history)

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Thanks for reply, There are two concerns I have, first it has to be strong which I can do but also I want to be able to take them out or hide them when car is for show. I'm not much for judging but trying to keep on the old speedster format.

Thanks for comments --- will give it some serious thought

Fred

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Hi Mike , I am anxious to see the Franklin speed car and the progress you have made this winter! Ill bet it looks like a million bucks by now. Mike [ATTACH=CONFIG]230164[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]230165[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]229985[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]229986[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]212841[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]212839[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]211300[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]211299[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]198749[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]198750[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]196117[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]196120[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]196121[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]196122[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]196051[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]195778[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]195777[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]195776[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]195775[/ATTACH]!

1930 franklin Speedster in Build Stage. 3 Side Draft Webers, Lowered Suspension and Chopped Narrowed Cowl. Packard Wheels and Hubcaps. 1910 Stanley Steamer Lights, New exhaust Manifold. Brake, Clutch and gas pedals. New Exhaust with Powder Coat. Started motor today (Sept 19) for the 1st time, It runs (POORLY) and needs some additional tuning.Found out Valve Timing was wrong and firing order was wrong. Fixed those problems. Strange for a motor that was supposed to be running. Now I find the Starter Drive is junk. Someone tried to weld it and it is no good. Looking for a starter drive so I can back to sorting this Motor out.I have the starter drive problem resolved but now the starter is dragging copper on the armature. It was working ok before I had to resolder the stud on the field coils and replace the starter drive. trying to figure out if the starter is binding or something. It appears to be turning the motor over without a problem but is arcing badly on all brushes. Received a second starter from a Franklin Friend. Starter problem resolved and now the Distributor has a problem. replaced Points,Cond, rotor and Dist Cap. Now I find out the Dist Housing is worn. No bushings so we bored the dist and made oil lite bushing. Motor seems to run OK.Now it is time to try and sort out those 3 Webers.New Grille with Air Cooled Script and Faux Hand Fuel Pump. Still trying to figure out how to run on Rubber Exhaust Extension. Maybe it will be Summer when I can go outside???New Headlights with Dillion Lens and Crank hole in the Grille. Pics of new Windshield and Wing Windowbelow/down. Can only post 20 pics on a Post.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]195327[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]195328[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]195329[/ATTACH] Mike DeFelice NY

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Hi Mike D and Mike W

This is a real build. Maybe I will find some parts to build something similar.

I have a '20's frame and am looking at a motor but just getting back to '12 Hudson speedster.

Good job and good luck

Fred

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