MikeDeFelice Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 (edited) !1930 franklin Speedster in Build Stage. 3 Side Draft Webers, Lowered Suspension and Chopped Narrowed Cowl. Packard Wheels and Hubcaps. 1910 Stanley Steamer Lights, New exhaust Manifold. Brake, Clutch and gas pedals. New Exhaust with Powder Coat. Started motor today (Sept 19) for the 1st time, It runs (POORLY) and needs some additional tuning.Found out Valve Timing was wrong and firing order was wrong. Fixed those problems. Strange for a motor that was supposed to be running. Now I find the Starter Drive is junk. Someone tried to weld it and it is no good. Looking for a starter drive so I can back to sorting this Motor out.I have the starter drive problem resolved but now the starter is dragging copper on the armature. It was working ok before I had to resolder the stud on the field coils and replace the starter drive. trying to figure out if the starter is binding or something. It appears to be turning the motor over without a problem but is arcing badly on all brushes. Received a second starter from a Franklin Friend. Starter problem resolved and now the Distributor has a problem. replaced Points,Cond, rotor and Dist Cap. Now I find out the Dist Housing is worn. No bushings so we bored the dist and made oil lite bushing. Motor seems to run OK.Now it is time to try and sort out those 3 Webers.New Grille with Air Cooled Script and Faux Hand Fuel Pump. Still trying to figure out how to run on Rubber Exhaust Extension. Maybe it will be Summer when I can go outside???New Headlights with Dillion Lens and Crank hole in the Grille. Pics of new Windshield and Wing Windowbelow/down. Can only post 20 pics on a Post. Another piece of junk on the motor. The generator was no good. Fixed the generator ,brushes, bushing and a cutout. Had a learning experience with the Weber Carbs. originally made the new manifolds parallel to the old ones. Machined manifold to get 5 degrees up on the Carbs and made a significant positive impression on the idling of the motor. Went to the Franklin Trek for 2 days and had a great time and a bunch of super nice people. Motor is leaking oil from lots of places. I was told that is what keeps the outside clean. I hope to make it through the summer before getting serious about fixing the leaks. Well a new problem. Clutch pedal went to the floor. Why not assume the clutch is no good like everything else. Clutch had no facing on one side and the throw out bearing cage was broken and the bearing locked up. I Ordered a bearing from NAPA and it was the wrong one. I bought an adapter and the right bearing from Mike and had the disk repaired. I put the clutch in and realized that it would not release. Removed the clutch again and found out the new lining was slightly off center and to big. I tried it in the flywheel originally but did not have the pilot tool in it. It was rubbing on the inside of the flywheel. I put the disk in the lathe and removed a small amount of material from the outer edge. I put the clutch in and every thing seemed to be ok. The next day I drove up to Seneca lake for Labor Day. $325 for gas to show my new toy. I backed out of the trailer and the clutch pedal went to the floor. The Throwout Bearing unscrewed and was loose. I was able to reach in the inspection hole and thread the bearing back in. I drove the car back in the trailer and that was it until I came home and remove the clutch again and tightened the bearing. I still haven't figured out why it came loose. Edited November 11, 2014 by MikeDeFelice new info (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnLancaster Posted May 31, 2013 Share Posted May 31, 2013 Looks like your attachments aren't working. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeDeFelice Posted May 31, 2013 Author Share Posted May 31, 2013 (edited) New Windshield without glass and wing windows Edited February 23, 2014 by MikeDeFelice more pics (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeDeFelice Posted June 2, 2013 Author Share Posted June 2, 2013 (edited) Try looking again.Mike Edited April 7, 2014 by MikeDeFelice (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsancle Posted June 2, 2013 Share Posted June 2, 2013 The webers look cool. How does it run? Any internal mods? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeDeFelice Posted June 3, 2013 Author Share Posted June 3, 2013 (edited) I haven't tried to run the motor w or w/o the Webers. That maybe the next big Project. Everything else has been a project. Steering Box, Brakes, Cowl Mods, Lowering Chassis and Motor. No plans for mods to the motor just hoping it will run ok with the new Carbs. Working on the Gas Tank, Bucket seats and Linkage for the CarbsMike Edited June 3, 2013 by MikeDeFelice (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RansomEli Posted June 3, 2013 Share Posted June 3, 2013 Holy Syracuse! Please keep us posted on your progress. I'm very interested in the details on how you lowered the suspension. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeDeFelice Posted June 3, 2013 Author Share Posted June 3, 2013 I added a pic of the rear suspension modification.mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RansomEli Posted June 3, 2013 Share Posted June 3, 2013 Thanks. Very interesting. I'm assembling a '12 Franklin speedster and wonder if that would work on a wooden frame. I'm thinking of lowering everything by a few inches. Please keep us informed of your progress. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hddennis Posted June 3, 2013 Share Posted June 3, 2013 Mike, it's been a few years since I lived in New York but I seem to recall their Motor Vehicle Inspections don't allow copper brake lines even when original equipment. Might pay to check before you invest more labor. Howard Dennis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeDeFelice Posted June 3, 2013 Author Share Posted June 3, 2013 Dennis, Thanks for the info I will checkMike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
project61 Posted June 9, 2013 Share Posted June 9, 2013 Very Cool! I just discovered this forum - I'm well into a '32 Buick 8-50 speedster for the Great Race = it has four sidedraft SU's (webers are too new to be legal in the GR). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwight Romberger Posted July 9, 2013 Share Posted July 9, 2013 Your build looks great Mike!Franklin engine is unique and impressive.Well proportioned body linesWhat front and rear axle ore you using with hydraulic brakes?And how did you get Packard wheels to bolt up!!!?Keep up the good workDwight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeDeFelice Posted July 9, 2013 Author Share Posted July 9, 2013 Dwight, Thanks for the Comments. Axles are 1930 Franklin. The Packard wheels will bolt up. The Hubcaps will not thread on the Franklin Hub. We made threaded adapters to fit the Franklin Hub and then cut the threads off the Caps and machined the Packard Hubcap and pressed the adapter into the cap.Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwight Romberger Posted July 9, 2013 Share Posted July 9, 2013 Mike,Thanks for the information.The axles looked like they "grew" there but I didn't know Franklin had hydraulic brakes that early.As a side note, please consider installing seat belts. I discovered they are particularly important in speedsters.Some friends on the Model T form were recently ejected from their speedster onto the road during a low speed front end collission. Both survived, but the wife spent a long time in the hospital with a broken pelvis, shoulder and fractured skull. In a similar accident with a speedster a few years ago, the wife didn't make it.Keep up the great work (and the pics),Dwight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeDeFelice Posted July 9, 2013 Author Share Posted July 9, 2013 Thanks for the thoughts on the seat belts. The wife thinks it is a good idea also!!Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whtbaron Posted July 17, 2013 Share Posted July 17, 2013 Hmmmm.....so those guys with driver side only belts aren't neccesarily looking for historic accuracy..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeDeFelice Posted July 17, 2013 Author Share Posted July 17, 2013 10-4Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RansomEli Posted July 26, 2013 Share Posted July 26, 2013 If you get a chance, I'd like to see a picture of your motor mounts. Looks like you did some nice work on adjusting the engine height. With the 1930 engine and a light speedster body, you are going to have a fast car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whtbaron Posted July 27, 2013 Share Posted July 27, 2013 Good thing he's got those hydraulic brakes. Great looking car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whtbaron Posted July 27, 2013 Share Posted July 27, 2013 What's the age limit for parts for the Great Race? You have more faith in that Franklin than the Ebay seller of the '29. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeDeFelice Posted July 27, 2013 Author Share Posted July 27, 2013 I don't know but I wouldn't be afraid of the Franklin.My understanding 30 and up were the best engines but there are a lot of the other still running great.Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whtbaron Posted July 28, 2013 Share Posted July 28, 2013 Googled the rules: [GREAT RACE only] Vehicle entries must have been manufactured in 1969 or earlier and shall be as defined in Part IX. A Hot Rod or Muscle Car that because of its power train, suspension, equipment, or other modifications would be considered a post-1969 vehicle for purposes of applying an age factor may be accepted for entry on an individual review basis based on Great Race’s determination that it complies with the spirit of encouraging the participation of vehicles whose body styles are 1969 and earlier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeDeFelice Posted July 28, 2013 Author Share Posted July 28, 2013 (edited) The rear mounts I just lowered on the Chassis. The front mount I replaced with a straight angle and attached it to the frame with 3 inch channel. Lowering the motor in the chassis provides lots of opportunity for problems. Clearance on the pan and drag link. hand brake linkage, Clutch and Brake Pedals are not in the right place and had to lower the floor. Still trying to sort things out. Will try to get some pics when I have better access to the mounts.Mike Edited August 28, 2013 by MikeDeFelice more pics (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeDeFelice Posted August 30, 2013 Author Share Posted August 30, 2013 (edited) 2nd Picture with Powder Coat Edited September 7, 2013 by MikeDeFelice pic's (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeDeFelice Posted September 7, 2013 Author Share Posted September 7, 2013 New Exhaust with Powder Coat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
odyssey Posted September 11, 2013 Share Posted September 11, 2013 Wow Mike- that thing is really going to scream-Nice installation on the baffles!Tom Rasmussen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeDeFelice Posted September 11, 2013 Author Share Posted September 11, 2013 Tom,Thanks for the comments. I wired the starter today. Maybe I can try to start it next week.Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Braverman Posted September 14, 2013 Share Posted September 14, 2013 I'm sure we would all love to hear it. Please post a video when you get it running. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeDeFelice Posted September 25, 2013 Author Share Posted September 25, 2013 Tom, Can you tell me what temperature I should expect to measure about 6 inches from the exhaust port after engine has been running at idle. I have some cylinders around 260F and some around 450F. Trying to sort out the engine. found out that the Cam timing is off so I need to fix that first.Thanks Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikewest Posted September 27, 2013 Share Posted September 27, 2013 Mike, You are doing a good job. You might consider removing the heads and grinding the valves. The valve seats will be bronze ,so may need a seat cutter as a stone will plug up instantly. I believe you will see those 100 horses wake right up then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest QGolden Posted September 30, 2013 Share Posted September 30, 2013 That is one impressive motor. Don't see many Air cooled Speedsters.Do you know what the engine specs are?Yes on the Seatbelts, this is what I have selected for the Speedster I am building now. Just give some serious thought as to what you are attaching them too. Even in a relatively slow speed collision, the forward momentum in the human body is several times its weight.I think in a Speedster these are perfect. http://wescoperformance.stores.yahoo.net/am4point.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwight Romberger Posted September 30, 2013 Share Posted September 30, 2013 If you can get them to make a set with a black waist belt and red chest straps, It will look like you are just wearing red suspenders! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeDeFelice Posted October 1, 2013 Author Share Posted October 1, 2013 Thanks for the input. Things are on hold for awhile. I just had Rotater Cuff Surgery! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeDeFelice Posted January 10, 2014 Author Share Posted January 10, 2014 (edited) New Grille with Air Cooled and Faux Hand Fuel Pump Edited January 10, 2014 by MikeDeFelice (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeDeFelice Posted January 10, 2014 Author Share Posted January 10, 2014 Update Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whtbaron Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 So we're back in the saddle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeDeFelice Posted January 11, 2014 Author Share Posted January 11, 2014 Doing a lot better. Physical Therapy twice a week and 3 days a week at the Gym. It will probably be around June before I am close to being all the way up in the Saddle. thanks for the Comment!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whtbaron Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 Should give you time to look for parts... hope that heals up fast for you, although I know it never seems fast when you're going through it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hudson33 Posted January 19, 2014 Share Posted January 19, 2014 Hi great job Good luck on recovery program,I like the comment on black and red seat belt. Not sure how to attach the upper support or just go with lap belt. Any ideas??. I rode in a Reo many years ago and am still remember wondering how far I would have gone thru the windshield in a collision!!!Fred Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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