rocky5517 Posted May 20, 2013 Share Posted May 20, 2013 A while back someone posted a really detailed list of each and every component under the hood and what color it should be, but it was for a first gen Riv. Anyone have a similiar list for 2nd gen (67 especially)?Much thanx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JZRIV Posted May 20, 2013 Share Posted May 20, 2013 (edited) If you tell me specifically what you need I can help you. No list exists for a 67 as far as I know. To list every part under the hood including bolt heads and its finish is a large task. I'm trying to do that with the 66 but its very time consuming to list every part and do fact finding along the way to insure accuracy.Basically the primary finishes are gloss and semi-gloss/satin black, red for engine, bare steel, bare aluminum, brass (A/C cars), silver cad, gold cad and cast steel. Edited May 20, 2013 by JZRIV (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocky5517 Posted May 20, 2013 Author Share Posted May 20, 2013 thanx Jason/ I have the pix you sent of a 67 or 68 GS, very nice work!!. Was looking for some of the nit-picking colors, like the color of the band that holds the coil. Also, should the bolts that fasten the front fenders to the inner wheel wells match the color of the exterior, or just flat black to match the wheel well interior? Yours was all black so it didn't matter. As a rule, regarding color of bolts, do you go for contrast or matching color?Sam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted May 20, 2013 Share Posted May 20, 2013 Something to think about as far as the color of the bolt heads (I don't know, just thinking out loud.) A fender is painted before it's installed. The inner fender is painted before it's installed. A bolt is pulled from a bin to bolt the two together. Did the bolt come pre-finished in a color from its source? Is the bolt a natural color and installed as such? Did some guy with a small can of paint go around and paint every inner fender bolt after it was installed? My personal opinion would be that either the bolt came black (not painted) from the supplier, or it's a natural color as supplied.It's like painting an engine. The engine is assembled and painted. It's test run. Accessories are added after the test run but no bolts that have been torqued for the test run are loosened or removed. So, if the bracket etc. is part of the engine when it's being painted before the test run, that bracket is probably engine color. If it's added afterwards (power steering, pulleys, rear a/c brackets, etc. they could be a different color. Would the guys painting brackets know which color engine that particular bracket is going on or does he just paint everything black?Some things are logical, some aren't. Some are even illogical. The best chance we have is to document cars like Mr.s Romanoski's vintage 18K '65. It might not be shiny, but I'm betting everything is the original color.Ed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocky5517 Posted May 20, 2013 Author Share Posted May 20, 2013 Those are excellent points, Ed, which is why we are the way we are, I guess. A year ago if someone told me I would be thinking about color of bolt heads, I would have hit him in the head with a generator. Now, look at me... Makes you laugh!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JZRIV Posted May 20, 2013 Share Posted May 20, 2013 thanx Jason/ I have the pix you sent of a 67 or 68 GS, very nice work!!. Was looking for some of the nit-picking colors, like the color of the band that holds the coil. Also, should the bolts that fasten the front fenders to the inner wheel wells match the color of the exterior, or just flat black to match the wheel well interior? Yours was all black so it didn't matter. As a rule, regarding color of bolts, do you go for contrast or matching color?SamSam,For the most part pics of the 67 I sent you are accurate but I did make a small number of errors as that car was done the mid 90s when I wasn't as particular. I was never questioned on any finishes but over the years realized a couple boo boos after seeing completely original well kept cars.The coil bracket was originally silver cadmium plated. Today with cadmium being so pricy/hazardous, the norm is to use silver zinc chromate which looks same. Unless a car is receiving a high quality resto, most folks just simulate it with paint. I use a combination of Krylon Matte Aluminum base and a mist of Krylon Dull Aluminum but any old silver paint will do as the coil bracket isn't easily seen on the 430.Bolts on fender to inner fender (wheel well area):The fenders were painted prior to installation so the bolts were not body color. Most likely these were originally black phosphate which was a low grade finish that didn't last long if exposed to moist weather conditions. Basically it lasted long enough to not rust before the car was sold. Black phosphate is actually a dark gray finish. I simulate that with dark grey primer and a coat of flat clear over top. Often these bolts would get hit and miss coverage from the application of factory undercoating or using the proper name "Shutz" which was a heavier based sound deadener vs an undercoating. I had stripped the wheel well Shutz on that 67 and painted them satin black. It made a nice squeaky clean look but as I learned later was not factory correct. The 66 I'm working on will have the Shutz reapplied to the wheel wells.Speaking of fender bolts there are a series of bolts that run along the top inside of fender on the engine bay side. These should be body color as they were part of the fender assembly prior to painting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocky5517 Posted May 21, 2013 Author Share Posted May 21, 2013 Thanx Jason that answers my question re body color. You don't still have that car, do you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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